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I'm getting old. You're right..........what was I thinking? So, try shooting at midnight with NO moon. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Ft Smith liked my contraption....gonna have the gunsmiths look it over. I'm thinking even a polymer mount would hold these little sights. One made to fit right over the anti-glare rails with matching shape to fit the rail grooves would stick down tight with monkey glue. The aluminum bases are easily heated for five seconds and then can be removed. Polymer probably would not allow this. Does anyone think Walther would sell any neatly made little mounts for this sight, the same one they offer on the PPS. I think they would. They could probably even mold them out of zinc. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Hey Crete, been wondering how you are doing with Italy having such problems not far away. Greece seems to be not being as hard hit. We are staying home, planting flowers, gardening and I'm shooting and doing photography. We wash everything that comes into the house....mail, food items....neighbors and family not allowed. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #64
The red dots are still working fine. I wasn't sure if the glue would hold up but it is still tight and I can't pull the sights off. I had about 50 belts where the glue had let go on these old, 15 year old, belts had let go. I applied Gorilla Glue to where the joint had failed and that repaired the belts as well. Good stuff for certain applications. I had planned on throwing 50 almost new belts away. If I can keep the dot on the target...that is where the round will hit. Sure beats having to line up rear sight, front blade and see the target all at the same time. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #65
The red dot on the 5" pistol flew off this morning. The glue let go of the aluminum base. The original test with JB Weld only, let the aluminum separate also. Seems the problem is these adhesives sticking to the aluminum bases. I cleaned the base of all oil I think. If it happens again I'm going to sand it, drill some holes so the glue can penetrate up into the aluminum base. Or find some better glue. The 3.4" QD is undergoing quite a bit of study regarding sear/hammer hook angles and trigger pull. I dropped the trigger pull to 2 lb 11oz but I'm not happy with my understanding or lack thereof of the geometry and function. Everything on the net regarding sear engagement is on 1911's. On a 1911 the hook is 90*, the sear can follow several angles, even a rounded edge called "True Radius". Did I mention there are a dozen jibs for accurate work. How many exist for a P22? None. I can photo and blow the engagement up. Dykem blue the faces and look at engagement wear. But what I really want is 100% understanding of what would be the best concept. Actually the P22 is laid out somewhat similar to a 1911 regarding trigger bar engagement with the sear. 1917
 

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Always piddlin'.....:p I don't know anything about hammer hook angles and poop like that. But I do know that when a car is painted it is sanded first. Also, when doing body work we use a 16 grit disc to grind the metal before applying the body putty. See where I'm headed?

That rough surface gives the paint or body something to stick to.

I believer the same applies to your aluminum plate. lay some 80 grit sand paper down on the work bench and slide that plate back and forth a few times.

I bought me some of that super duper Gorilla glue the other day to glue magnets to some kydex. That stuff DOES set up quick. It's working so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Kept missing everything I shot at. Squirrels just stick out their tongue and keep on chewing. Did I re-zero the last time I put the dot on??? I wondered. Black dot on some paper....good grief, 6" low and 2" left. Screwed the adjustments back to zero....laugh tomorrow tubby....you will be sorry. And don't even think about chewing my wiring harness again.

And,, remember those holes I drilled in order to get the thread adapter off...well, you gotta make sure the suppressor is all the way tight or they let about 99.9% of the noise out.. 1917
 
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