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Discussion Starter #82
Nice shootin'. Looks like some powder burns around that first group. 馃榿
You must have forgotten that #2 pencils don't leave powder burns....but they sure make nice groups. Well, I had the pistol in a couple of bags, resting on a stool, tape over the top of the sight so the dot was tiny and only filled up 1/10 of the blue circle. Just hold it there while releasing the hammer with a 2 lb trigger and the ammo/barrel does the rest. When I was shooting from the mechanical holder at 25M the biggest problem was flyers. The target ammo did noticeably better with regard to few flyers. Walther could easily add a system like this to the P22 . Just make a small change to the slide to offer sight options. Old peeps can certainly use all the help they can get. 1917
 

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Yep, love those red dots. Walther should incorporate your 'red dot mounting' idea into their next P22 upgrade. Excellent R&D................and good shootin', for an old fart. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Old fart is right...soon be 72, where is the time going? But I don't consider this good shooting. From a bag, 21'. Off hand is where the good shooting comes in...rifle or pistol. When the battery died I was at the farm and had been shooting a steel plate at about 80' to 100'. With the dot I hit it every time. One hand offhand. Just put the dot on it, pull the trigger. Then the dot died. I tried aiming through the no dot sight...hit the plate about 50% of the time. Then I quit aiming all together and just pointed the pistol. Still hit it about 50% of the time. For defensive shooting with a larger center fire folks need to practice a good bit just pointing in my opinion. You might not have time for all that aiming business. OF, you know anything about 300 blackout uppers or rifles, AR style. I need one or the other for hogs and a suppressor. If a barrel and tube and other stuff costs 75% or a complete rifle I'll just get the rifle. On the other hand I have an AR I really rarely shoot and .223 doesn't suppress well. The nearest neighbor is about a mile away at the farm, still I don't think they want to hear fireworks all night long. And at night seems to be the best hog shooting time. Night scope of course....know anything about them. I like the white hot and the clear black ones too. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Seems I looked a Palmetto and they were sold out. What is with the short barrel? How far are they accurate? I have an old Smith M&P AR....early 2000's model. 9/1 twist. Runs 100% on anything. ACOG on it. Rarely have a use for it. So a complete upper consists of barrel, charging handle and gas tube...fits right on the lower. Thread adapter and suppressor of choice. I'll check around and see what is in stock around here. Plenty of ammo.....pistols are in short supply. Can't think of anything new I need there. 1917
 

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Palmetto is out of a lot of stuff, but the link I sent is still in stock...... As far as how far are they accurate, I'd have to say, your 4" 22 does a mighty fine job, I'd expect the short barreled AR's to be a little bit better n' that. I've not tested mine beyond about 55' (indoor range), but I also don't care to much about anything beyond 55'. When I was a kid, we had LOTS of places we could shoot.....not now.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
It took a 1,000 rounds but the screws that hold the base plate tight against the slide loosened up a bit and I didn't take any small Allen wrenches to the farm with me. It was still good for minute of 8" steel at 100' and 24" steel at 200' but a chipmonk just laughed at me. Red locktite this time. But here is two of the real problems. First the suppressor gets the pistol very dirty very quickly. Secondly on the P22 the plastic lense is close to the ejection port and I can watch it gir dirtier with each shot. After about 10 or 12 it needs a gently wipe. This isn't working. The lense is getting fine scratches. I either need cleaner ammo, or to move the red dot further rearward or it would be great if the manufacturer made some small inexpensive peel off clear lens protectors. At least the sight didn't fly off and hit me between the eyes. I never did get an answer from some of you engineers regarding the strongest thread pitch for something small like this. 1917
 

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errrrr, I have no idea what the strongest size or thread pitch for something small like that might be. I'd probably goop on a little extra JB Weld.

Just wondering, could you remove the rear sight and move the plate all the way to the rear edge of the slide?
 

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Discussion Starter #90
The threads I chose are very fine. I forget exactly what but I figured the more the better. The screws worked loose just enough to allow me to wiggle the sight. Not much of a problem at powder burn distances but at distances you can't have loose sights and hit much of anything.

I am seriously thinking of grinding off the small sight loop, putting another aluminum base on and one that allows me to move the sight as far rearward as possible. I could then add two more screws into the breech block. Since this is a SA only pistol I can't cover the hammer and still cock it other than by cycling the slide. There isn't any advantage to a longer sight distance with a red dot. I've though about mounting it on the front stabilizer too. That will get it a long way from the ejection port and the stabilizer doesn't cycle with the slide and is a long way from the muzzle end of the silencer. 1917
 

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Hee, hee..............I vote for grinding off the bump and movin' er back. Would there ever be a reason or need to remove the plate? Or can the plate be attached permanently....I'm thinkin' screws, with red loc-tite and some super dooper two part clay epoxy.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
94359

I really think that rather than do this I will cover over the front of the lens with some clear tape or something. It will get dirty too but I can pull it after 20 shots and wrap on another piece. Perhaps even wipe it off ad make it last along time but somehow I need to protect that lens before it gets any more scratched up. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Hee, hee..............I vote for grinding off the bump and movin' er back. Would there ever be a reason or need to remove the plate? Or can the plate be attached permanently....I'm thinkin' screws, with red loc-tite and some super dooper two part clay epoxy.
Not regulary. I guess the threads could be stripped mounting the sight. I have found that a bit of heat from a torch makes whatever turn loose. Other than that the plate needs to be securely attached and not more. You only have four or so places to drill and tap the into the breech block. Presently the holes for the sight screws block access to two of the areas. Moving the sight rearward would free those areas up for drilling and threading. The easiest way to do this is glue the new base plate on, flip the slide upside down and drill through from the bottom of the breech block which allows for precise placement of the holes including through the aluminum plate. Eventually the whole thing might need to come off so that the firing pin channel can be cleaned. Cleaner can be sprayed down the channel from the front or rear as the firing pin is moved back and forth but to get in there and give everything a spotless cleaning requires removing the block. I'm thinking red locktite. This is what experimenting is all about. Covering the lens should be easy.....just wish I had known I needed to do it. There is no information regarding cleaning or protecting the lense at the Shield site or in the package. It has a hard quartz finish with a red something that prevents flare of the red dot.

I have sent them an e-mail regarding all of this but last time they couldn't bother to reply. Will see if they do this time. 1917
 
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