Nice shootin'. Looks like some powder burns around that first group. 😁
You must have forgotten that #2 pencils don't leave powder burns....but they sure make nice groups. Well, I had the pistol in a couple of bags, resting on a stool, tape over the top of the sight so the dot was tiny and only filled up 1/10 of the blue circle. Just hold it there while releasing the hammer with a 2 lb trigger and the ammo/barrel does the rest. When I was shooting from the mechanical holder at 25M the biggest problem was flyers. The target ammo did noticeably better with regard to few flyers. Walther could easily add a system like this to the P22 . Just make a small change to the slide to offer sight options. Old peeps can certainly use all the help they can get. 1917Nice shootin'. Looks like some powder burns around that first group. 😁
Not regulary. I guess the threads could be stripped mounting the sight. I have found that a bit of heat from a torch makes whatever turn loose. Other than that the plate needs to be securely attached and not more. You only have four or so places to drill and tap the into the breech block. Presently the holes for the sight screws block access to two of the areas. Moving the sight rearward would free those areas up for drilling and threading. The easiest way to do this is glue the new base plate on, flip the slide upside down and drill through from the bottom of the breech block which allows for precise placement of the holes including through the aluminum plate. Eventually the whole thing might need to come off so that the firing pin channel can be cleaned. Cleaner can be sprayed down the channel from the front or rear as the firing pin is moved back and forth but to get in there and give everything a spotless cleaning requires removing the block. I'm thinking red locktite. This is what experimenting is all about. Covering the lens should be easy.....just wish I had known I needed to do it. There is no information regarding cleaning or protecting the lense at the Shield site or in the package. It has a hard quartz finish with a red something that prevents flare of the red dot.Hee, hee..............I vote for grinding off the bump and movin' er back. Would there ever be a reason or need to remove the plate? Or can the plate be attached permanently....I'm thinkin' screws, with red loc-tite and some super dooper two part clay epoxy.