pic? and yeah i dont know what apex is saying but its 10x as hard as what they show. i broke my ambi lever. and those pins are like cemented in.

 

That's why I do very limited work on my guns. Every video says its easy but they also do 30 takes so of course it looks easy. I sent all my HK's down to the factory for Light LEM Trigger instals. Expensive, yes but well worth it for the headaches it didnt create

 

If I remember correctly the lever has to be pushed like you are stoping the slide while it is hammered. You can see this pic.
http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/faq-ppq/20739-disassembly-ppq-step-step.html#post164650
If you hammer the slide lever without pushing it up you will most probably damage it.

 

Yup Pani...I haven't had issues with mine by following the King's instructions.

 

Tell them it had a weak spot and broke. It's not your fault. If it cant take you pushing on it, my gosh, what would have happened if you actually shot it.

 

I'm not so sure Rip. Forcing parts in ways they aren't supposed to go is usually not a very good idea.

As to Walther CS. I think it will depend upon who is on the other end of the line. While I might not admit that I tried to "bubba" strip my weapon, I think saying "It was weak and just broke" might cause them to want one to return the whole weapon. I might go with "I was disassembling my Q and the lever broke in the process."

Anyway, making sure you have the slide stop pushed up before punching out the part sure makes the process easy and painless....I never detail strip any of my Walthers without referring to TANFOGLIO's detailed instructions and videos. He's saved me from "bubba" mistakes more then a few times.

 

I'm not so sure Rip. Forcing parts in ways they aren't supposed to go is usually not a very good idea. ...

You will never make it as a politician. You and I know better but 84 didn't, if he did he would not have pushed it, so what I said is true. Seen my wife RIP who is not mechanical inclined break things and not a clue why. However, you are correct in that it's up to Walther to interpreter it. Not you or I or even 84. As I read it, I thought he broke the frame side out. Surely the pistol has to go back for sure. And PS, it was all meant as a joke. For most, these plastic pistol should never be taken further then field strip. Some of them have little bushing and such and spring retainer that are easy to get backwards.

 

I see some real ethical issues with asking Walther to fix. You may just want to up the price by 40% and sell it on Armslist instead.

 

Tell them (Walther's CS) what happened...they may charge you, but chalk it up as lesson learned, perhaps..?

As for the post above mine....perhaps the word "ethics" needs to be searched in a dictionary, and it's definition read, and re-read.

 

Just a note. I've had a lot more success in life telling the truth, rather than trying to feed someone full of poop.

Sorry you broke your frame. Now, call Walther and tell em' what you did.

 

Totally agree. My day job consists of frequent interactions with customers desiring of service/maintenance/repair, and sometimes warranty requests on products that generally cost 2 to 3 times as much as a PPQ.

If a customer tries to take it apart, messes it up, and then calls us to admit it and asks us to help, we'll do everything we can to fix it with the least amount of 'pain'. But if you jerk me around...

We KNOW our product, and when a customer feeds us a story, I guarantee you, we know it. We know exactly what will break, and why. I've seen it all, heard it all, broke it myself. There are very, very few "new" failures. I suspect Walther is no different. 'Fess up, and beg for help.

EDIT: Sorry, didn't realize this was an ancient thread when I posted. I'm sure this issue is long-since resolved.

 

Yeah I take full responsibility always. When I call Walther I'm not going to try and throw then some crap I'll own up to what I did and pay whatever price I have to.

 

Sounds good hw....they may even fix it under warranty...you never know about Walther CS.

 

Don't know about you but when you feed me a line of BS and I find out, I do all I can to work AGAINST you just because you insulted me. If I catch you, it means you thought I was stupid enough to fall for your BS and if you insult me, it not only makes me not want to help you but also makes me want to sabotage what you are trying to do.

 

Those kits are never as easy to install as the videos. I did a Powder River spring and sear kit install on my XDS and it was rough! A small pin fell on the floor and disappeared too. I always use plastic bags now but you can still lose things. Sorry about your PPQ!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

One of the first things I had to learn as a young mechanic was a feel for how far I could bend something or how hard I could pound on it.

 

still hoping for a pic when you can

 

Tomorrow I'll upload a few.

 

Here you go. My stupidity on full display.

 

That looks like frame damage...you may need to rebuild the area with Bondic....I hope it isn't as bad as it appears.

 

IDK. Do you feel good about rebuilding a gun frame and depending on it? I'd get it professionally done and ditch the gun with full disclosure, chalk up the mistake to my stupidity and the loss of money to the cost of education and get a new one.

 

Yea that's a dead gun...

SpaceGunner

 

The area in question doesn't get huge amounts of stress and Bondic isn't a glue it is more like a polymer filler.
As long as the repair doesn't impact the function of the slide release I don't think it would be a huge issue. That being said, I would not use it for EDC either.

 

I was looking to put this Apex trigger into my Q5, but instead placed it in my PPG M1 and set it all up on the platform of the M1 version of the Q5 now. I am in love with it at this point, but how I got there was due to difficulty installing the trigger.

I went to install it on the factory Q5, but removing the slide release was impossible. After working with it for almost a half hour, I gave up and decided to put together my PPQ M1 Q5 Match monster. As of now, I am happy but it removes the M1 as a edc.

If there is anyone on here with some advice on how to get the slide release levers out without breaking the gun, please me my know. I'm not sure on the "pushing up" part while removing them as to what people mean.

 

I think Earls will sell you a new frame


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

For Earls, a PPQ M2 Frame with the guts is 495, the frame without the guts is 295. Of Course has to go to a dealer and is $20 shipping. Well Worth it.

 

I put the Apex into my PPQ m2 using this video from Apex. The only tricky part for me was installing the trigger assembly back into the frame. Nothing looked right as I did (and re-did) it but it did finally go back together and worked. I don't know if the Q5 is any different from the M2 5 or not though.

 

The Q5 frame is identical to the M2. Every single aspect of it (except it is supposed to say Q5 match somewhere I believe)

 

Wasn't sure but wasn't there an issue about Earl selling something that was supposed to be from Walther when they don't make it or something? Or am I thinking about someone else?