Roll pin punch is the best way, and... usually, but not always, a smallish hammer works. The key is to hold the part you want the pin removed from absolutely solid. With a polymer frame, that might be more challenging, but if you don't hold that frame solid and un-moving, then the blow of the hammer will be absorbed by the frame's movement instead of being used to drive out the pin. Same applies to sights, when they need drifting.

 

Okay thanks. Thats what I figured. I just wanted to make sure the roll pins on the CCP are not directional or something before I continued.

 

Have you seen my complete teardown video? I specifically do not address this.. On the roll pins, I use a small drift, on the edge of the pin and tap it out with a small hammer. I have a block with a hole drilled through it to push the pins through. when I am putting them back together, I put a little WD-40 on the pins to make putting them back in easier..

 

@Ekjunge: yeah, I can understand needing to set down the camera at that point in the disassembly. Your videos and the information you have provided in this forum have been very helpful in my understanding of the mechanisms at work in the CCP's trigger group. This will not be my first time honing a trigger into something beautiful. This thing already shoots like a champ and literally my only gripe with the system is the trigger [only when pulled very slowly]. When shooting the CCP deliberatly my gripe quickly vanishes as any "sponginess or grittiness" literally dissapears at pace. ..Thing is I like to make that plate sing at 100 "a majority of the time" ... buds get a real kick out of it especially with this little beauty.

 

..oh and I was using a roll of duct tape under the frame. I dont think it was rigid enough. There must be just enough give between the softness of the roll of tape and flex of the polymer frame to prevent the pin from breaking free. Ill try the block of wood method. Ill update with methods and results when finished.

 

Nice flat stuff is easy to hold. Frames, not so.

 

Is something broken? Why are you removing them? Why not just leave them alone?

And don't use flat punches on roll pins. That's nyetkulturny. Use roll pin punches with a little nipple on the tip that centers in the hole in the end of the pin.

M

 

...nyetkulturny...

Great word. I admit that I had to look it up.

 

Roll pins aren't directional but you may find one end beveled slightly to make them easier to start. I often will do a quick bevel on a belt sander before reinstalling them. Beyond that, a suitable roll pin punch and brass hammer work fine. Bench block or other support is best, even a bench pad works though.

Jeff

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Nekulturney takes me back to my sophomore year reading "Red Storm Rising"


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To remove roll pins the punch you use is called a pin punch
They come in different sizes to accomidate the roll pin

 

Firing Pin removal

Hello everyone,

I have a dumb question. How do you remove the firing pin? It appears there is a small pin that must be removed or pushed?

 

Not a dumb question.

I think most will say that removal of the striker and the small pin is not recommended. There is enough access from the open slot in the striker channel to do cleaning. Also there is a warning in section 9.4.2 of the manual:

THE STRIKER SHOULD STAY INSIDE THE SLIDE!

If you want to move the striker rearward you can follow Ekjunge's video to disassemble the locking catch and striker spring:

http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/....com/forum/ccp/45359-new-improved-complete-takedown-walther-ccp.html#post449538

The striker can also be moved even further rearward by depressing the firing pin safety (part 43). Then depress the firing pin safety again to return the striker to the forward position before assembly of the striker spring and locking catch.

If you still want to remove the striker from the slide, the small pin (roll pin 1.5x6, part 49) does need to be removed. I did this when I replaced my broken striker with a new one. Here are my notes:

Part 49 notes

 

... there is a warning in section 9.4.2 of the manual:

THE STRIKER SHOULD STAY INSIDE THE SLIDE!

...

To which the riposte is: THE STRIKER SHOULD NOT BREAK! THE SLIDE SHOULD STAY ON THE GUN! RAGGED SHARDS SHOULD NOT TEAR LOOSE INSIDE THE SLIDE! THE STRIKER SPRING SHOULD NOT DISINTEGRATE! THE GUN SHOULD NOT SELF-DESTRUCT!

Unfortunately, that is not in the manual. C'est domage. But where is Manurhin now when it's needed?

M

 

PJ 49 - Thank you, I don't think I will attempt to remove it unless it breaks. I was actually wondering about the best way to clean the carbon up and your information is much appreciated.

 

zuperbal, I was guessing that is what you had in mind, but wasn't sure. Welcome to the forum.

 

I have the trigger group dissassembled. I was having the same issue with the "cam follower/bolt" as dkalbach. Also general grittiness. Dissassembly was as follows.

SN# 28XXX

Roll pin removel: I used a roll pin punch to drive the pin through the pistol from left to right if aiming the gun. [I did this to avoid damaging the slide release]. It was very difficult to get out. If I did it again I would go from right to left as the pin seemed to have a taper along the whole length of the pin. The slide release can be avoided by positioning the grip of the pistol correctly [slide relase in a hole or off the block]. I ended up doing this anyway because the 1/8 roll pin punch became lodged very firmly in the trigger group. Punching the pin from the left required so much force that I could not tell the difference between the resistance of the pin and the gradual lodging of the punch..

The roll pin is quite sturdy and is not a standard split pin. the split has a sawtooth pattern that is tight on the right [smaller diameter] and loose on the left [larger diameter]. I ended up pulling that last 3/8 of the pin through the grip/trigger group with a vice grip which left the 1/8 inch pin punch VERY FIRMLY lodged in the trigger group. The hole is tapered. used a hardened drill bit shank to remove the stuck roll pin punch. [it broke while attempting to remove it, it was in that tight]. I have smithed many triggers and dissassembled many firearms and I have never encountered a pin this dificult to remove or a tapered hole like this. Learn from my mistake, right to left on this one [at least on this specific pistol]. FWIW it does show the pin coming out the left side of the gun in the exploded diagram. once again I chose the opposite direction as a matter of convenience regarding the slide release thinking the direction was arbitrary.


Trigger group dissassembly:

This went smoothly. remember to place tape over spring loaded parts [top: sear and connector, internal: cam follower/bolt access]. The ejector pin is larger [remove right to left and second] in diameter than the pin that holds the sear and commector in place [remove left to right and first]. use appropriate sized punch to avoid deformation of the ejector pin.

polishing parts over the next few days. Will conclude report on reassembly.

 

Mike, how many reports have we seen of broken strikers? Just the one... It was a bad cast and nothing more...

 

There was one other report on this forum of a striker breaking besides mine:

gasdoc's broken striker

 

Trigger Job was a success. Smooth pull from start to finish. can't "feel" the sear, per se, but can hold and squeeze on the break point. honed all parts paying special attention to mating surfaces, deburred all corners, chamfered spring bolts on top and bottom and thoroughly cleaned the heavy grease from the trigger block. reassembled with a *very* light coating of clp on trigger group parts. worth the trouble.