MOS, modular optics systems seem to suddenly be the rage for reflex red dot pistol sights. This is unfortunate for my task as all of the gun shops have red dots but no mounting bases.....because the MOS systems don't use them. Those slides are already machined drilled and threaded to accept the red dots.
I can order a Glock base at Amazon for $15, black anodized aluminum, drilled and threaded for some of the sights. The problem is...until you get a sight and base you can't exactly figure out how to best mount it to a P22 which of course has absolutely no rear sight options. Then there is the thin zinc slide to deal with.
What i will need to do is fasten a base of some kind to the slide in some manner. Either glue one on or mount it with screws that extend through the slide and into the steel breech block. That is a bit tricky too until you have a mount in hand so that you can avoid the existing mounting holes while adapting the base to the P22. Optimally glue would be great....no drilling of the slide. Place the base in a bed of cement, square it up and let it cure.
To that concept I have taken a 2" piece of P22 slide and JB Welded a 1"W x 1 1/2"L piece of aluminum to the top of it. Onto that I have Welded three nickels which have a total weight of 15 grams...same as a light red dot. Tomorrow I will see just how tough it is. Will it hold up to repeated poundings to simulate a closing slide? Total weight appx 25 grams. 1 oz = 29 grams.
In another experiment I have drilled and threaded several holes in an old breech block at likely looking spots. The thickest area is 4.8mm, there is a wing on one side that is 4.12mm and the other side is 2.4mm thick. Actually from tests in tightening down the M3 screws...even the thin side seems pretty strong. Brother In Arms had posted that for a M3 screw, there is no advantage to material thicker than 4.5mm.
To keep everything in align the breech block should be examined for likely spots. Then mounted into the slide and locked in place with the rear roll pin. The bottom of the breech block can then be drilled all the way through including the slide. The breech block holes then get threaded while the hole through the slide gets enlarged just a bit. This all works well enough and appears to be stronger than necessary for holding a mounting plate in place.
The unknown at this point is...where are the mounting holes for the sight on the base. You can't interfere with those locations while fastening the mount to the slide/breech block. Since I don't have a mount at this point I went ahead and mounted a 1" W x 1 3/4"L piece of aluminum flat bar using two convenient spots....one of which I believe will be right in the wrong spot. But, it's an old piece of a slide so it doesn't matter. The point of all this practice. What's one more hole in this ugly slide.
A number of locations lend themselves to drilling and threading. Drill from the bottom up. This many machine screws won't be necessary. The second screw from the left is going to be in a bad location regarding the pre-drilled base mounts and will likely have to be moved forward to another location.
Circular mold marks on the bottom of the breech block aid in locating drill points.
This is a part of an old slide that was subjected to various tests in acid to see how it would hold up. I forget why we wanted to know. Zinc alloy vs aluminum???? So, great piece to have to experiment on. The short piece has the JB Weld glued on parts and is resting in a vise at present. The center had already been filled with JB for a previous project.
And here is an aluminum plate fastened tightly to the slide. Obviously flat head screws will be required, set flush with the top of the base. Lowes had those but in M4 only which appeared to be a bit too large for this project.
While tightening the top plate down I noticed that the breech block is pulled upward a small amount, so I will relocate the right side screw forward and where there is a rail to support the top. This should provide a more stable mount too. The plate above is located so that it won't interfere with the existing rear sight. If I were to lose the rear sight the mounting plate/red dot could sit further rearward. 1917
I can order a Glock base at Amazon for $15, black anodized aluminum, drilled and threaded for some of the sights. The problem is...until you get a sight and base you can't exactly figure out how to best mount it to a P22 which of course has absolutely no rear sight options. Then there is the thin zinc slide to deal with.
What i will need to do is fasten a base of some kind to the slide in some manner. Either glue one on or mount it with screws that extend through the slide and into the steel breech block. That is a bit tricky too until you have a mount in hand so that you can avoid the existing mounting holes while adapting the base to the P22. Optimally glue would be great....no drilling of the slide. Place the base in a bed of cement, square it up and let it cure.
To that concept I have taken a 2" piece of P22 slide and JB Welded a 1"W x 1 1/2"L piece of aluminum to the top of it. Onto that I have Welded three nickels which have a total weight of 15 grams...same as a light red dot. Tomorrow I will see just how tough it is. Will it hold up to repeated poundings to simulate a closing slide? Total weight appx 25 grams. 1 oz = 29 grams.
In another experiment I have drilled and threaded several holes in an old breech block at likely looking spots. The thickest area is 4.8mm, there is a wing on one side that is 4.12mm and the other side is 2.4mm thick. Actually from tests in tightening down the M3 screws...even the thin side seems pretty strong. Brother In Arms had posted that for a M3 screw, there is no advantage to material thicker than 4.5mm.
To keep everything in align the breech block should be examined for likely spots. Then mounted into the slide and locked in place with the rear roll pin. The bottom of the breech block can then be drilled all the way through including the slide. The breech block holes then get threaded while the hole through the slide gets enlarged just a bit. This all works well enough and appears to be stronger than necessary for holding a mounting plate in place.
The unknown at this point is...where are the mounting holes for the sight on the base. You can't interfere with those locations while fastening the mount to the slide/breech block. Since I don't have a mount at this point I went ahead and mounted a 1" W x 1 3/4"L piece of aluminum flat bar using two convenient spots....one of which I believe will be right in the wrong spot. But, it's an old piece of a slide so it doesn't matter. The point of all this practice. What's one more hole in this ugly slide.

A number of locations lend themselves to drilling and threading. Drill from the bottom up. This many machine screws won't be necessary. The second screw from the left is going to be in a bad location regarding the pre-drilled base mounts and will likely have to be moved forward to another location.

Circular mold marks on the bottom of the breech block aid in locating drill points.

This is a part of an old slide that was subjected to various tests in acid to see how it would hold up. I forget why we wanted to know. Zinc alloy vs aluminum???? So, great piece to have to experiment on. The short piece has the JB Weld glued on parts and is resting in a vise at present. The center had already been filled with JB for a previous project.

And here is an aluminum plate fastened tightly to the slide. Obviously flat head screws will be required, set flush with the top of the base. Lowes had those but in M4 only which appeared to be a bit too large for this project.
While tightening the top plate down I noticed that the breech block is pulled upward a small amount, so I will relocate the right side screw forward and where there is a rail to support the top. This should provide a more stable mount too. The plate above is located so that it won't interfere with the existing rear sight. If I were to lose the rear sight the mounting plate/red dot could sit further rearward. 1917