Walther Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The serial number of my P22 is L11XXXX. I was curious a to when it was made. I saw in another thread the list of the codes when Walther users two letters but as you can see, this pistol has only one letter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,346 Posts
The L and N in the serial number refer to a 3.4" barrel pistol (L) and a 5" barrel pistol (N). Some European pistols have a different code. I don't know why. The two letter code for year of manufacture is on the right side of the frame at the chamber. BA- 2010, BB - 2011, etc. 2000 pistols were AA, AB, AC, AD, AE, etc. You can also look on the manila envelope that comes with the spent case and the date there will get you pretty close to date of manufacture. M1911
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,346 Posts
I see now. There is an AF on the breech block- 2005

Thank you
The breech block in inside of the rear of the slide and contains the firing pin and firing pin block. No lettering there. The date code is on the upper portion of the frame where the barrel slides through, which is the "gun" as far as the BATF is concerned as that is where the SN is stamped in two places. One you can see, one smaller stamping is just below the same area as the code but is covered by the polymer grip housing.

Regarding an '05 model, there is nothing wrong with that pistol but you can get a few free updates from Walther is you are having issues. Some changes since then are new extractor, new hammer ( I think it was later than '05) serrated roll pins that stay in place better. And I don't think the short slot A mags were out in '05 but if they were and you are having problems a call to S&W will get you some new stuff for free. I'd ask for a hammer spring while I was at it as some of them have broken.

Other than that an '05 is 98% the same as a 2012. M1911
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
My mistake. I thought the part barrel slid into was the breech block.

Let me see if I understand correctly- the updated parts are the extractor, the hammer and a set of serrated roll pins?

I haven't shot this pistol yet. What kind of problems are the older mags having? How do I identify between the two types?

Thank you very much for taking time to answer my questions
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,346 Posts


Short slot mag on the right. These came out in about '06 and did not work properly. Long slot A suffix letter part number mags work fine. Original mags had no stagger slot at all and did not work well either.



New style hammer and serrated roll pin. Notice flat area at tip of hammer face. Original roll pins were smooth and the one under the safety lever than pins the breech block in would sometimes vibrate out and block the safety from being able to be set in fire position. Not a big deal but aggravating.



Original hammer. The tip was especially prone to catching in the notch under the breech block that exists between the safety drum and rear of breech block.



Removing the tip from either hammer to create a smooth face that will span the notch or gap under the breech block.



Finished shape, remove "only" enough material to remove the tip and create a smooth, slightly rounded shape like this.



Sharp stock trigger bar ear. This part needs rounding or it will eat into the bottom of the slide.



Polishing off the front edge of the trigger bar ear. Only the front edge, nothing else touches, not the rear, bottom, etc. Polish the rear legs and outer rear shoulders of the trigger bar. Only polish those areas, do not remove material. Remove material from from the front of the trigger bar ears so they don't slide metal off the zinc slide. Do not shorten them from the outside. A few of the tricks for smoother performance.

Use a dry lubricant, oil or grease will collect spent bits of carbon and dirt and wear out the slide grooves and frame rails. S&W will replace all of this for free should you ever have a problem. But, most of us like to do the fixin ourselves and keep a smooth running firearm. There are a number of other mods, breech block, O rings, trigger overtravel stop....:D I'm always piddlin with the pistol. Sure is a fun shooting pistol and from what I'm reading I'm not sure the new Ruger SR22 is any better. I though it might be ..... doesn't look like it at this point. M1911
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
If you look at Walther P22 Serial Numbers - For Current & Future Reference you will see another P22 with L112XXX which was test fired 21.11.05. So, that should give you a feel. Now, did you P22 come with a Spent Shell Casing Envelope? If so, what were the dates on it?
Thanks for the link!

Dad bought the pistol when he was living down in Texas. I have no idea what he did with the shell casing and I don't think he cared much. All I've got is the pistol itself and since Dad passed away a couple years back and Mom got rid of a lot of junk before she moved, I have no idea where it, or the other stuff that came with it, could be.

The hammer has a bevel at the top and both mags have the long slot. The trigger bar ears have not been modified.

I haven't had a chance to shoot this pistol yet, I've only had it a couple of days. It's a neat little thing. Pain in the cartouche to disassemble and an even bigger pain to reassemble. Took me awhile to figure it out.

Hopefully, I'll get to shoot it soon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,346 Posts
Thanks for the link!

Dad bought the pistol when he was living down in Texas. I have no idea what he did with the shell casing and I don't think he cared much. All I've got is the pistol itself and since Dad passed away a couple years back and Mom got rid of a lot of junk before she moved, I have no idea where it, or the other stuff that came with it, could be.

The hammer has a bevel at the top and both mags have the long slot. The trigger bar ears have not been modified.

I haven't had a chance to shoot this pistol yet, I've only had it a couple of days. It's a neat little thing. Pain in the cartouche to disassemble and an even bigger pain to reassemble. Took me awhile to figure it out.

Hopefully, I'll get to shoot it soon
What!!!!:eek: Man, this pistol couldn't be easier. :p Funny, a lot of people sure have a hard time getting the slide back on. Field strip takes 3 seconds. Reassembly takes about 10 seconds. You are probably missing the reassembly rod. Here is how to reassemble.

1. Cock the hammer
2. Stand the pistol on the rear end, muzzle up
3. make sure the take down lever is pulled all the way down
4. drop the guide rod into the recess provided for it under the barrel
5. drop the recoil spring over it, both ends are the same
place the muzzle cup over the end of the spring

STOP

Here is where folks don't get it right. It is really tricky to try to pull the slide down at this point because the spring goes willy wonky and kinks all over the place. The cure is very simple. The pistol comes with a short piece of polymer rod that matches the guide rod. But you don't need it, all you need is a section of .22 cleaning rod, a small screwdriver, a chopstick, an Allen wrench, etc.

6. with the muzzle end of the recoil spring cup resting on the end of the spring
7. drop the accessory guide device through the end of the hole in the cup, through the spring and place it against the end of the guide rod
8. now simply pull the slide rearward until the end of the guide rod sticks through the muzzle cup hole
9. While holding the slide rearward, pinch it between thumb and fingers against the frame to do so, lift up the pistol so that you can pull the slide all the way to the rear ( note again, the take down lever must be down in order to do this )
10. with the slide all the way rearward press down slightly against the hammer and the let the slide forward so that the rails engage the slide grooves. Release and the recoil spring will close the slide
11. snap the take down lever back up.
12. load magazines and go shootin

Repeat often.....especially that shootin part. :) It take far longer to type this than to actually do it. 3 seconds to remove, back on in 10 seconds or less when you get it down. Keep us posted. M1911
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Two things get me-
-The wiggly spring. I'm half-afraid that I'm gonna kink it. It also makes getting the spring rod through the hole in the slide a pain
-The takedown catch. It's hard to press it down to release the slide. On top of that, while trying to stuff the recalcitrant Slinky in it's hole, the takedown catch moves back in place just enough to prevent the slide from moving far enough aft to drop in place.

What I do is work the spring over the rod and push it through the slide until the post sticks out far enough to grasp. Then I work the slide back into place while trying to get the takedown latch to cooperate. It's gonna take a bit of practice but it's one of those things that has me wanting to petition Congress for a "National Show Your Appreciation to An Engineer Day"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,346 Posts
My mistake. I thought the part barrel slid into was the breech block.

Let me see if I understand correctly- the updated parts are the extractor, the hammer and a set of serrated roll pins?

I haven't shot this pistol yet. What kind of problems are the older mags having? How do I identify between the two types?

Thank you very much for taking time to answer my questions
Let me put my thinking cap on. Have to at my age.

Your mags sound good. They are either long slot A or the B mags. The B mags are made of a little thicker material and have a taller spring retaining nub. I've never had any issues with either and don't consider the B mags any better than the A's. If they work, they work.

Changes over the years:

Stagger slot added to magazines

A tiny bar was added on top of the breech block to better guide the firing pin. This small addition is at the front end of the breech block.

The safety levers were tightened up so they would not be rotated by the safety drum rolling over the hammer.

An O ring was added to the barrel nut to help keep it tight. the nut didn't change, just an O ring added and you can add your own for 10 cents.

Some type of thread locker was added to the frame and safety lever screws to keep them tight

The smooth roll pins that held the polymer grip housing on and the breech block in were replaced with serrated tooth parts that do in fact stay put.

The extractor tip was slanted rearward to reduce the gap between the rim and extractor which benefited ejection direction based on my experiments with correcting the problem of the pistol throwing hot brass between your eyes and everywhere else.

A solid pin through the hammer strut nose was replaced with a serrated roll pin

The hammer face was re-profiled in order to eliminate the point on the original hammer that would catch in the gap in front of the safety drum. They didn't get the angle right though and it still needs smoothing to eliminate the point created between the two surfaces. This came from my work on re-profiling the hammer face so it would span the gap in front of the safety drum.

Apparently the hammer spring steel was improved as there aren't many reports of hammer spring breakage in recent years.....this is good since the PK.380 uses the same hammer and spring and it is designed for carry

The screws that hold the barrel stabilizer on at the end of the 5" barrel were changed a bit

Walther began to try to chamfer the chamber entrance. Didn't get that quite right either. I did a clear thread on how to do this properly too...:D

in about 2010 the unloved internal trigger block was deleted from the pistol. I like it, never use it, never will, but I kinda like the thing sitting there. :p

Beginning in '09 you only got 1 mag instead of two. Walther didn't forget the price increase though.

About 2010 or 11 the P22 Q was introduced

New detailing on the grip, nose of extended mag, new serrations in the front of the slide.

Best of all additional slots in the rail because very few accessories fit the one slot of the original model. Bad news, only one magazine still

Stuff they haven't fixed after all these years. The trigger bar ears, the only part that can damage the pistol haven't been polished, a number of the cast zinc slides have cracked....no word on if the new Q model was strengthened but I haven't heard any complaints as of this date.....Monday afternoon.

Same old sights that not too many folks are wild about and no option for adding anything else as the slide is so thin.

Ruger enters the picture with a very similar size, weight and look pistol. Two mags and an aluminum slide. Ruger will conquer the P22 at last......uh, wait, not so fast. Where is the threaded barrel? The take-down levers are failing, letting the slide move too far rearward where the slide jumps the frame and the recoil spring launches it downrange. oops, there are numerous jams, barrels came loose from the factory and were immediately damaged upon firing, no Allen wrench came with the pistol so the owners could tighten the barrel screw and the service manual listed the wrong size wrench, some slides don't slide, one has blown up injuring the shooter, some magazines are very difficult to insert. Oh well, seems testing is being left to purchasers by every manufacturer these days. What did I leave out? Time for dinner. :) M1911
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,346 Posts
Oh yeah, somewhere along the way all manner of grip colors were added from pink to lime green, carbon fiber paint, camo.....blue which confused dealers who were thinking they were getting blued pistols. Ever see a lime green one........I have to ask....what was Walther thinking? :D M1911
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,346 Posts
Two things get me-
-The wiggly spring. I'm half-afraid that I'm gonna kink it. It also makes getting the spring rod through the hole in the slide a pain
-The takedown catch. It's hard to press it down to release the slide. On top of that, while trying to stuff the recalcitrant Slinky in it's hole, the takedown catch moves back in place just enough to prevent the slide from moving far enough aft to drop in place.

What I do is work the spring over the rod and push it through the slide until the post sticks out far enough to grasp. Then I work the slide back into place while trying to get the takedown latch to cooperate. It's gonna take a bit of practice but it's one of those things that has me wanting to petition Congress for a "National Show Your Appreciation to An Engineer Day"
Grasp the take down lever between thumb and first finger knuckle, wiggle back and forth as you pull down. It will come down pretty easily that way.

Compressing the spring onto the guide rod is too hard. Doing it the way Walther recommends is very easy. I'll put up a picture later. A video would be better I guess. M1911
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top