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I was just wondering what the best lubrication for my gun would be, right now I'm just using Hoppe's no.9 lube oil. It seems to be a little thin for it, what would ya'll recommend?
 

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This may sound strange (or even a little "Bubba" to you), but a number of gunsmiths I have spoken to have told me they use plain old automotive motor oil to lube their weapons.

I've been doing this on my Springfield 1911 GI, my hunting rifles, and my wife's German imported Walther PPK/S for the last year, and have had no problems. I use the same synthetic 10W-30 I put in my '65 Corvette. It seems to be a little thicker than typical gun oil, and since Walthers particularly seem to like being well-lubed, I like it better than gun oil.

The only thing I don't like about it is that it doesn't have that "gun oil" fragrance...

Go ahead and flame away, but I'll swear by it.

:)
 

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Well Txstate,

Using motor oil on a firearm seems beyond "bubba" too me, since the properties for which motor oil is formulated are so different than the needs of a firearm.

Motor oil is way too thick, and likely to gum up and goo up your guns rather than lube them. It's made to operate at temps much higher than a gun is ever likely to develop - even in the desert!

If motor oil had anything to recommend it for use on weapons, we would be buying 10-30 wieght oil in little bottles like "Break Free"!

I've had the same bottle of "Break Free" for several years all my guns are lightly oiled, work fine and are rust free - Really good GUN oil isn't such a heavy investment!
 

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153: I'm not offended, and you are certainly entitled to your opinion. Like I said, flame away, but I stand by what I said.

The arguments are the same old ones - the military doesn't use it, motor-oil manufacturers don't recommend it, etc...

I find it hard to believe that a motor oil (Mobil 1 15-50) that can protect a $500,000 Indy car engine that revs at 15,000rpms+ is not good enough for my handguns. And a $4.00 quart will last me a lifetime.

First, Mobil 1 contains some EXCELLENT corrosion inhibitors in the form of long-chain amines (oxygen scavengers). Second, what special "corrosion protection needs" do firearms have that my engine doesn't. In particular, except for temperature differences and alloy differences, and the fact that firearms are coated and therefore the "metal bonding" crap is overated.


Why would Mobil 1 recommend motor oil for firearms? To sell a few more quarts, while taking on some major liability since they don't have a clue what you are doing with the oil. Forget about it...manufacturers rarely if ever recommend a product for use on an "unapproved" application. Don't take it as a blessing or curse that they do not approve of this use...

Why would I care if Sig or any other manufacturer uses an oil or grease in house? Their guns see a few rounds and go in a box for shipment. They use whatever is satisfactory and can be bought cheap, even if they get a better discount for telling us that they use it. Do you think car manufacturers put top notch synthetic in a car before selling it to you? No way, they buy the cheapest crap they can that meets specs.

I gotta tell you that if you believe some snake oil "is reactive to metal" I want to sell you some property I got in Love Canal. Give me a break. This snake oil is probably a good blend of synthetic oils (bought from a large OIL COMPANY), and some other corrosion inhibitors - it is probably good stuff, just don't have a 'gasm over some fiction a fantasy writer came up with over a cup of coffee..."Let's see, 'This specially formulated lubricant took years of R&D and hundreds of thousands of dollars to develop. It actually bonds with the metal in a highly reactive, tramsmographic retrotransformation whereby the neutrinos in the upper micron of the metal surface are transmogrified into the slickest substance known to man...even slicker than SLICK 50."

The fact that some military bureacracy buys the stuff is of no comfort to me...they probably are paying good tax dollars for something they could replace with, say, Mobil 1 from Wal-Mart.

By the way, Mobil 1 sells a spray synthetic lubricant you can use for guns (Castrol/Hoppes and Pennzoil also make synthetic gun lubes). I like and use the Castrol/Hoppes brand.

I have repeatedly seen recommendations to add additional grease to the rails of PPK's and PPK/S', so as to ensure that it operates problem free. And yet many gun makers recommend against using grease at all on your gun (other than for storage). Grease generally attracts dirt and provides marginally better protection than a good liquid lubricant. So if grease is going to make a PPK / PPK/S operate better because it is thicker and provides better lubrication, I see no reason why motor oil, perhaps slightly thicker than gun oil but certainly not as thick as grease, would be a poor or inadvisable middle-ground.
 

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TxState,

As usual your material is well researched!!!

Your needs in Texas are probably different from mine here in .....Kalifornia. :(

Many years ago when I was bluing guns for a living I used motor oil to squirt the freshly blued parts with. I felt the thicker oil was better for them when it would be a few days before they would be reassembled.

You may be right about all the wonderous properties of motor oil. But I FEEL it is too THICK, and too likely to gum up, to want it on firearms I am planning to shoot.

I don't like grease either, for the same reasons.


I prefer to keep my firearms clean and very lightly oiled (Break Free is okay but I have also used Hoppe's and Outer's GUN oil).

Like I said, I have had one bottle of Break Free last about 5 or 6 years! Heck the writing on the bottle is all rubbed off - the container is about 1 1/2" in diameter and about five inches tall, so I know Break Free isn't getting rich off me.

In the same period I have bought dozens of quarts of motor oil - for my vehicles! Just doesn't seem like I get a good bang for my buck with the 10-30weight stuff. ;)

I am not going to put "Break Free" in my car engine or 10-30 Motor Oil on my guns. :D

Keep Swinging!!! :)
 

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I don't see any real reason to switch. I don't think gun oil is that expensive.
You and 153 are both correct - I don't disagree with either of you in that regard. There's certainly nothing wrong with using gun oil, by any means. There's a reason it is used and marketed for that purpose.

All I'm saying is that I believe a synthetic motor oil, such as Mobil 1, is just fine to use on your weapons.

If nothing else, I suppose you can keep it in mind in the event you're in a pinch and can find nothing else.

;)
 

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I have so many bottles and tubes of hi-tech and low-tech oils and greases I can't remember them all; but I usually wind up using old Breakfree (although in the hot weather I may use Wilson Ultima Lube or some such on my 1911).
 

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For lubing moving parts that don't rub against each other, I use Tetra gun oil. For the slide rails and other parts that do rub against each other, Tetra gun grease. I do this with EVERY firearm I own and malfunctions have all seemed to have disappeared. I have heard of Mobil 1 being used as a gun lube. I guess it works. I like Tetra because it actually embeds itself in the metal and fills in microscopic craters in metal to create a smoother friction surface. I know...sounds like a bunch of BS. But I sure can't argue with the results :D

See...Tetra isn't just fish food.





Dep



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Lol, I used to feed my fish Tetra. I had an Oscar who ended up about 3 pounds. He ate all my other fish and then committed suicide by jumping out of the tank (through the plastic lid no-less). Haven't used the tank since.
 

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Lol, I used to feed my fish Tetra. I had an Oscar who ended up about 3 pounds. He ate all my other fish and then committed suicide by jumping out of the tank (through the plastic lid no-less). Haven't used the tank since.

Right now I have a big Jack Dempsey in a small 3 gallon tank, but it's always covered. He hatched from 2 breeders. I been feeding him Krell shrimp and tubifex worms. He's growing like crazy!!!! :D



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every oil is a compromise trying to hit the sweet spot for a particular application.

for a gun:
temperature range -10F to 110F (affects viscosity index decision)
how long between oilings - 1 day to years ( affects oxidation and corrosion inhibitor decision)
velocity of parts and metal type ( actual viscosity decision)
and then there are decisions such as 'will it make mess' (ruling out graphite or moly. compounds)

rem oil or CRC are great compromises, especially if you might be using the gun in the middle of winter, or it might be stored in for an extended period.

Personally, I wouldn't have any problem using Mobil 1 on a gun in the summer (but I would use 0W-20, or 0W-10 if I could find it). I wouldn't however use it for long term storage, or in severe winter conditions.

(retired chemist that did some oil testing in my time)
 

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In case you didn't notice this is a very old thread. The subject has come up many times since so let's put this one to bed.
 
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