want spare parts for p22
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Me too................
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Flasher, if you're in the US, call Walther in Fort Smith (1-479-242-8500).
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Welcome from the Mountains.
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Www.carl-walther.com is the place to find a distributor in your country.
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Walther P22 Takedown Lever - Part # 1504240 at Numrich.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/walther/auto-pistols-walther/p22?sort-by=name desc
Currently Out of Stock
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/walther/auto-pistols-walther/p22?sort-by=name desc
Currently Out of Stock
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Yes but you don't want a metal one. The part acts as the slide stop and the zinc slide already has enough issues with cracking. It would be fairly easy to fabricate one out of a piece of polymer if you cannot obtain one. If you need a good picture or two of the part along with some dimensions let us know and I will put some up. It is a simple part and might be able to be 3-d printed. Two ears snap over a portion of the polymer grip and hold it in place when it is locked up. A short steel pin holds it from falling off the bottom of the grip.
This part might be available on e-bay but shipping of gun parts out of the US is a bit tricky. It is not a serialized part. 1917
First, thanks for help
Of course I need those picture or two of the part along with some dimensions to print it easier.
Please send it to me and I try to make it by fiber one
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My favorite place. Wish I could personally deliver the part. I'm over due for another visit but can't get away at this time.
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I've got some laying around but mailing "gun parts" out of country even if not serialized is a problem. I've asked. "Absolutely not" I was told. I've asked Ft Smith also....nopper, can't do it. This is where you need factory service in Europe or Egypt. But, I will put up pictures and measurements. You can delete the steel pin if you like. All it does is keep the part from being pulled entirely off the grip when you pull it down. All the takedown lever needs to do is be pulled down far enough so that the bottom of the muzzle cup clears the top of it. This then allows the slide to be retracted far enough so that the slide grooves clear the rear of the rails. There are parts like this at E-Bay but I'm not sure how you get them to Egypt unless there is an European section of E-Bay. 1917
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Here is the take down lever as it appears when removed from the grip. The two outer arms slant in and when pressed up the small, inner rounded buldges snap over the top edge of the grip frame. This holds the lever in the up, locked postion. The indentation in the center is where a steel pin that is snapped into the frame fits. The pins only purpose is to catch against the top of the recessed area which then keeps the part from being accidentally pulled all the way off the bottom of the grip. This is not of much consequence and the pin and recess could be deleted when fabricating a new part.
In this photo the take down lever is installed on the grip and is in the up/locked position. You can see that the small rounded bulged areas on the upper arms have snapped over the upper edges of the grip. This is necessary to hold the part in the up/locked position. This is a really old lever and both sides are exactly the same. The part is reversible and can be damaged if the shooter fails to fully lock the part in the up position before firing. The one pictures is damaged on the far side, so I reversed it. This part has been in the pistol for over 50,000 rounds.
In this photo the lever has been rocked back and forth to spread the top of the legs so that it can be pulled down in order to remove the slide. Note that the steel pin is now stopping further downward movement. If the pin were not there the part could simply be pulled all the way off of the grip. It is easy to remove and reinstall. The pin might help the part not get lost should it become lowered accidentally.
I'll put up some measurements soon. 1917
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The take down lever is 8.76mm thick. The width of the frame where the part fits is 21.6mm and the inside of the upper arms measuring from inner bump to inner bump is 20.3mm. Outside to outside the upper arms are 24.18mm wide while the base of the part measures 26mm in width. So, the bottom is a bit wider while the upper arms have been molded to reach in a bit. This allows the part to snap into place when pressed upward. The part is 16mm tall in total height.
The center saddle portion is 10.83mm tall when measured from the outside of the base of the part to the lowest portion of the saddle area and 11.8mm wide. The overall height from the base to the higher edges of the curved area are 14.8mm. The curved area in the center is therefore appx 4 mm lower than the two inner upper arms. The oval indentation for the retaining pin measures 5.96mm wide x 7.9mm tall. The distance between the top of the indentation and the bottom of the curved area is 1.85mm.
A careful look at one of the outer arms shows it to be 1.98mm thick at the bulge while the thinner portions at the grip serrations measures 1.2mm and thee thicker par 1.66mm. The base of the part is 16.2mm wide with two slanted up areas that are each 5.1mm in length. The slant of these two bottom areas causes the side arms to be 14.2mm in length above the slanted area. 14.2mm + 1.8MM = the full height of 16mm.
The pin measures 1.98mm in diameter and 10.04mm in length. Both ends are slightly chamfered and polished. If you make a pencil sketch of the part and then apply these measurements you should have enough information to make the part. The width of the indentation is far wider than it needs to be but the height needs to be correct or the pin will stop the part from being pulled down far enough to allow the muzzle cup to clear the cutout saddle.
If I were making one of these I would eliminate the serrations and the indentation for the pin and the pin. The little radiuses at the corners are probably not necessary either but the reach of the arms so that the inner bulge snaps over the top of the grip is critical as is the height of the saddle. Only the lower portion of the muzzle cup hits the center saddle part but it must hit with the full width of the inner face of the muzzle cup being caught just below the saddle. 1917
The center saddle portion is 10.83mm tall when measured from the outside of the base of the part to the lowest portion of the saddle area and 11.8mm wide. The overall height from the base to the higher edges of the curved area are 14.8mm. The curved area in the center is therefore appx 4 mm lower than the two inner upper arms. The oval indentation for the retaining pin measures 5.96mm wide x 7.9mm tall. The distance between the top of the indentation and the bottom of the curved area is 1.85mm.
A careful look at one of the outer arms shows it to be 1.98mm thick at the bulge while the thinner portions at the grip serrations measures 1.2mm and thee thicker par 1.66mm. The base of the part is 16.2mm wide with two slanted up areas that are each 5.1mm in length. The slant of these two bottom areas causes the side arms to be 14.2mm in length above the slanted area. 14.2mm + 1.8MM = the full height of 16mm.
The pin measures 1.98mm in diameter and 10.04mm in length. Both ends are slightly chamfered and polished. If you make a pencil sketch of the part and then apply these measurements you should have enough information to make the part. The width of the indentation is far wider than it needs to be but the height needs to be correct or the pin will stop the part from being pulled down far enough to allow the muzzle cup to clear the cutout saddle.
If I were making one of these I would eliminate the serrations and the indentation for the pin and the pin. The little radiuses at the corners are probably not necessary either but the reach of the arms so that the inner bulge snaps over the top of the grip is critical as is the height of the saddle. Only the lower portion of the muzzle cup hits the center saddle part but it must hit with the full width of the inner face of the muzzle cup being caught just below the saddle. 1917
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It might be handy to blow up the last photo I posted really pretty large and then begin to apply the measurements to the photo or a tracing of it. 1917
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If a friend had a P22 you might be able to make a 3d copy of the part if such machines are available. 1917
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