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What does your cleaning look like?
Mine is never dirty.
It's always clean and lubed.
I just spent the day shooting steel.
500 rounds Remington white box 115 grain.
Good to go.
 

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PPX firing pin issue

PPX purchased November 2014, but not fired until October, 2015. After 50 rounds fired, pistol failed to discharge. live round in chamber, hammer would fall, but no discharge, no strike mark on primer. Sending to warranty depot in Canada. Not happy for this to occur with a new pistol.
 

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This is what was happening to me. I made sure to clean my pistol really good, lube it good and clean the breach face real good as well as wipe the firing pin with bore cleaner to make sure there was no gunk on there.

I went to the range again and only had one issue where I had to pull the trigger 2x to fire.
I had another issue where the bullet got stuck and the slide was stuck open. I tried to clear it and the round fell back into the chamber and fired when I pulled the trigger it fired.

This is probably the 3rd time I've had a round get stuck. I keep wondering if I'm doing something wrong, and the jams and misfires, were while using cheap Tula ammo.

So the next time I go to the range, I'm only going to use brass ammo.
I have to wonder if I might be limp wristing it sometimes .
However if its this picky about ammo and this susceptible to jams and misfires, I think it needs to go back.
 

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Reading through this thread just made me sick to my stomach. I just ordered two of these from CDNN. Is there any information as to what's the cause?
 

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from what most people can tell it's grime and gunk getting up there in the firing pin chamber causing light primer strikes due to jamming it up. since the PPX doesn't have a user cleanable firing pin chamber like most guns you can't get in there and clean it out easily like you would for say a 1911 or glock. it's the reason I sold mine. Not because mine failed, but because it has a very easy propensity to fail later in life.
 

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Worm is right.

That is all it is is crap got into the firing block assembly.

The PPX has to be Walther's biggest disappointment.

There is no doubt that it is an incredibly accurate awesome shooter, but reliability is completely out the window.

In no way would I consider relying on it for home or personal defense.

But for a just for fun shooter, I enjoy it. I do not like that I have to take apart a poorly constructed firing assembly with tiny parts that will easily get lost, but when it fails to fire, it is necessary.

Doc
 

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Yep, JDM

Unless of course there is something serious.. broken firing pin, spring, etc.

I understand why people send it in. The firing block assembly is an awkward process with tiny parts that are easily lost.

Plus when they get a gun sent in, they do a full function inspection and clean.

But basically, yeah, you are right.

Doc
 

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which is rather frustrating. I honestly don't know WHY they didn't make the firing pin channel accessible like 99% of semi auto pistols out there. I don't do it often but I DO check my firing pin channel on all my guns at least once a year, sometimes twice and there's usually at least a little gunk in there. it's why I sold mine. Not because I think the PPX is a piece of crap, but because for only $200 more I got the P99 and it gives me the piece of mind knowing I can do basic maintanence on the gun without having to send it in.
 

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I got a PPX not too long ago and had some issues at first. They seemed to have been firing pin related. I would fairly frequantly have an issue where I would have to pull the trigger twice for the round to fire.
The pistol also seemed to be susceptible to limp-wristing.

After a decent break-in period, a VERY thorough lubing and cleaning the breach-face really good, as well as expressing the firing-ping and wiping it down good with bore-cleaner to remove any grease/soot (possibly due to a small amount of lube getting in through the firing pin hole) it seems to be running reliably.
I brought it to the range, put about 200-rds of multiple brass and steel rounds with no issues at all.
 

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is there a video on R & R of the firing pin assembly?
does the assembly lift out intact when you remove the roll pin (#3.3 on exploded view) ? do you have to hold anything down or push anything in while removing the pin?
 

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PPXType,

There are no videos. The parts diagram that I linked to, is the best there is.

Once that main pin comes out of the side of the slide, the firing pin block should slide out with just a bit of encouragement of a couple light raps.

Once out, there are several very tiny parts and springs that you have to be very careful with or they WILL get lost.

Those have to come out before the firing pin itself can be removed.

It is not easy describing, it's one of those things you have to see for yourself. To see just how small some of the parts are.

If you do decide to take it apart, be sure to take very detailed pictures and/or make very detailed sketch of the orientation and fit of each part, otherwise it will take you forever to get them back in place.

Doc
 

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Hi All,
If you have read this far, you too must have had this problem. I did also.

In my case, the rear part of the firing pin (the part that the hammer hits) was stuck flush with the interior part of the slide ("Fire Control" #2.1 on the Walther PDF), yet the pin was not protruding from the breech face.

Of course, this causes to FTF's with no primer strikes.

I have appx 2000 rds through this firearm, and it was field stripped, and cleaned after almost every firing session. I have never cleaned the firing pin channel, or oiled it.

As a "let's try this", I sprayed some brake cleaner spray into the back openings of the firing pin channel (and assembly), allowing the cleaner to rinse out the channel (holding the slide vertically, aft end up...).
I don't know if any debris or carbon came out, but the firing pin did return to the normal position (protruding from the back of the "fire control" about 1/16").

I shot another 300 rounds with no further FTF's.

I will contact Walther about this, and am planning on removing the "fire control" to see if there is brass or carbon that caused the firing pin to stick.


I also plan on washing the firing pin channel with brake cleaner more regularly.

One thing that I found interesting during this experimenting, was that the firing pin does not protrude from the breech (bolt face?) when it is flush with the back of the "fire control". So it actually needs kinetic energy to reach the primer, after the hammer stops against the back of the "fire control". I guess this prevents the pin from contacting the primer if the hammer is hit, without the firing pin safety being pressed.

Try it sometime... with the slide off, press on the back of the firing pin with a small tool. When it is flush with the "fire control" block, it won't protrude from the breech face, and shouldn't, unless the round "firing pin safety" button is pressed, and then you must press the firing pin further into the "fire control" (further than the hammer reaches) in order to reach the primer.
If you don't understand what I just described, don't try it. You probably shouldn't be holding a small tool, let alone a firearm...

Paul
 
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