I have found that photographing the P99 Military version is challenging, because the olive drab frame doesn't always end up with the correct color. These did.
One of my P99s is a Euro one with no importer markings on the slide. My others have the laser-etched importer markings on the right-front flat of the slide. You can see them if you go to my wallpaper page.
Yes, I did look at the site -nice pics. The laser etching (smith and wesson) on mine is rough to the feel, not smooth. It's actually raised a bit from the process. I think it is somewhat original as all the others I have seen are like yours. There is actually no white coloring in mine either. Just an observation.
edit: the "Walther P99" on mine is laser etched as well. It's an all German made AC with a solid locking block.
Mine definitely don't have the split trigger. In fact, I have never seen a good photo of the split trigger.
The photos above are of one of my .40 Auto P99s, and all .40 Auto P99s have "4" as the first digit of the six-digit serial number. I used Photoshop to obliterate/erase the last two digits of my serial number (I guess it worked so well, especially on the barrel hood, that it looks like those digits were never there).
Well maybe mine isn't a split after all? Looks just like yours. I'll try to take a macro shot w/ flash and post it.
.
Why hide the serial number? I've noticed most don't publish their complete numbers.
The triggers are different. I hope these photos posted. I can't see them from home. Every time my DSL router see a reference to my domain name from inside the firewall it thinks I'm trying to access its admin pages from the LAN. References from outside the firewall are correctly routed to the http port on my freeBSD box.
Do you mind if I use a couple of these photos in the Walther P99 FAQ, in the section that mentioned the split trigger? The photo that we have there now could use a replacement, such as showing both sides. Also, what is the two-letter datecode on the right side of the frame, right under the accessory rail? The photos don't have enough resolution to make out.
I didn't realize it until now (thanks to /dev/null's pictures), that the split trigger configuration also has less of a hook or curve in its contour than the non-split trigger. Additionally, it appears that the bottom of the split trigger is further away from the triggerguard than my two P99s (non-split)...very interesting.
I'm sitting here comparing my OD Green P99 .40 to the photo. Mine does not have the German insignia on the back of the slide and the Walther P99 is in gold lazer print not deeper stamped style of the beauty in the photo.
Ren
I'm taking the laser off soon. I don't like the look of it and more importantly it won't stay zeroed in.
I do not care for the looks either, said I would never get one till they came on sale. Mine functions very good though and keeps right on the mark.
I would venture to say that reason Bruz's laser stays on target
is that he notched out the little angle molds, ( if I recall Bruz's
previous posts) . i plan on doing the same with a dremel tool.
But I find it hard to argue with the "ugliness concept", (LOL).
Yes I did do some notching with a knife...really think I got lucky with the fit as it is as tight as the rest of the gun. If I were to use a Dremel with what I know now I probably would not use the grinder to get a smooth. even fit. Mine is rough and jagged (can not see from the outside) which is what gives it the "bite" so it does not slide. Also, when I am thru playing with the laser at the range, I unscrew the laser and put a small piece of black plastic with a rubberband around the rest of the unit...protects it and not as ugly.
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