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ke1234567 - How is the Volq extractor?

I am thinking about get it to eliminate one of my last two problems with the gun. FTE is few but enough for me to want to mod the extractor or get a better replacement.
 

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Just remember, the extractor plays no part in extracting a spent case from the chamber when firing. It is used to manually unload a round when clearing the pistol. What you need to test is CCI Mini Mags and Rem Golden Bullets and see if those don't clear up your issues. Firm grip on the pistol and any other semi auto at all times. Bet it will suddenly begin to run 100%. 1917
 

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At the range yesterday my P22 failed to eject the first two casings. After manually ejecting the cases the remaining rounds ran perfectly. This happened every time so i shorted the magazine by two and had the same failure. Changed ammo with same result. THEN, i had a misfire or something as the round split at the rim. Sparks and debris flew back so thankfully I had my safety glasses on.
Anyone have any input on the failure to eject and the misfire?
 

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At the range yesterday my P22 failed to eject the first two casings. After manually ejecting the cases the remaining rounds ran perfectly. This happened every time so i shorted the magazine by two and had the same failure. Changed ammo with same result. THEN, i had a misfire or something as the round split at the rim. Sparks and debris flew back so thankfully I had my safety glasses on.
Anyone have any input on the failure to eject and the misfire?
Welcome Hugh...let's begin with specifically what P22 you have. Old P99 style, Q style or the new QD with the captive recoil spring and decocking lever.

Next, specifically what ammo were you using. It's important.

When the magazine is at full capacity the magazine spring is fully compressed or nearly so which creates the most lift on the stack of rounds, the most friction on the bottom of the breech rail dragging over the top round when going rearward and requires the most energy for the breech to shove that top round out of the magazine. That is one reason some pistols, including the P22 might have issues with the first two rounds. You should not have this problem, 10 rounds in the mag or 1 in there. I'd recommend unloading the mags, take them apart, inspect for any damage or rough areas, clean the insides, very lightly oil and reassemble. The follower must move up and down freely and smoothly.

Extracting while firing is the job of the blow back gasses and if you don't have enough...you don't have enough to fully cycle the slide. This can cause several issues...stovepipes, spent case caught by the short stroking slide, spent case being shoved back into the chamber....in other words the slide did not blow back far enough. Why??? Could be weak ammo. The P22 likes snappy ammo...CDCI Minimags or Remington Golden Bullets for starters. Also, limp wristing the pistol can cause this...not holding the pistol firmly and over the years we have seen some folks with large hands and this being their first small .22....actually have their big hand dragging on the slide.

BTW, the extractor plays no part in extracting a spent case after firing. That is the job of the blow back gasses. The ejector's job is to cause the rear of the case to bounce off of it and out of the pistol. But in order to bounce, the case must hit the ejector with some authority and if some of the problems listed above are occurring ...the case might not eject properly. So, kinda one thing at a time...ammo, clean mags, firm grip.

On the P22 a round should freely drop into the chamber if the chamber is clean. If one won't then you need to give the chamber a good scrubbing. There is nothing you can do about bad ammo except don't purchase it. But, there are some duds in all .22 ammo. CCI is a very good round. Rem Goldens are not of the quality or cost of mini mags but they do have enough energy to reliably cycle the slide. There might be a few duds in a big box of them and I've had a case or two split in a 100,000 of them. There is one brand to avoid...made in the Philippines and darned if I can remember the name. Someone will be along to remind me of what it is.

Recently a Member here who has flat tires or can't tune his banjo properly and is always flat had a very rare issue with his chamber. It had a bad spot that required the factory to correct. The pistol has a lifetime warranty and Ft Smith will take care of parts, labor and shipping. Grip, ammo and a clean chamber are all really important on this and other similar pistols. 1917
 

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Armscore is the name of the ammo that has had rim blowouts which damaged P22s. A rim blow out is more serious than a split case. The rim is largely unsupported on a P22. A dirty chamber can cause a round to not quite fully seat and if ignited by the firing pin while out of battery the rim might blow out....but, I've never had this happen with 6 or so pistols and well over 100,000 rounds and with plenty of what some folks might call torture tests. 3,000 rounds at a sitting with no cleaning or lubing and the pistol still functioning 100%. Member Crete has had it happen and it blew off the top of one of his slides. Others have reported the left side of the polymer grip being blown out enough to let the slide hold open arm and spring jump ship. It is not something you want to happen. Usually, I say usually, when a round doesn't fully seat due to a dirty chamber you get a light strike and no fire. The next hammer fall, firing pin strike will then fire the now seated round. But the problem here is...the chamber is dirty.

On the 2009 AK pistols, factory chamfering of the chamber entrance was sometimes done very crudely and the process cut the steel too thin at the cut for the extractor. This allowed the thin metal of the chamber to crack off. I came across this issue at some forum and joined just to explain the obvious missing chamber wall and told the owner to stop firing the pistol and to send it in for a new barrel. He was firing CCI Stingers and the rims were blowing out one after the other. Very dangerous. Good job on wearing that eye protection. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Hey all, I hadn't updated this thread in some time. I was frankly pissed at my P22CA so let it sit in the safe in time out for awhile.

Took it out to Chino on Friday and gave it another shot at life. Fed it CCI Mini Mags. ZERO JAMS. The only thing I changed from my initial post to now was better ammo, like many suggested. Sure enough, it needs high quality/velocity ammo. Thanks to all for the CCI Mini Mag suggestion. Fortunately I bought a metric ass ton of it so I'm good to go.
 

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If the cases are getting stuck in the chamber it is likely the chamber needs a good scrubbing with a brass brush. Rounds should freely drop in and fall out. The extractor plays no part in extracting a spent case when firing. That job is assigned to blow back gasses. Carefully clean and then inspect the chamber. Do the drop a round in test. 1917
I ha
 

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Nah, oil isn't that thick but you don't really need oil in the chamber...what it must be is clean and I mean clean. Lead polishes up just like steel and fools many a gun owner. But, since you have actually responded....I can't tell you how many have gotten a lot of help but never came back...we can look at some other things. What ammo are you using. Plain lead rounds can foul the chamber and barrel faster than plated .22 rounds, especially if you fire them fast and heat up the barrel.

If really cleaning the chamber doesn't resolve this problem you will need to look at your cases for scratches that should not be along the body of the round. What ammo again...are you using? Some ammo has been problematic....like Armscore....the cases split. I've seen a few cases split on a lot of ammo. If you see scratches that should not be on the rims...have a close look inside the chamber. You can index the position of the scratches with regard to the firing pin strike. The firing pin hits at 12 o:clock. Scratches at 9 might indicate something in the 9 position within the chamber.

Having spent cases stick in the chamber is not a routine problem with P22s. One thing Walther seems to excel at is barrel making....even on the P22. With the slide locked back or removed....rounds should basically drop into the chamber. 1917
I have a 1 year old P22. I’ve put @ 100 rounds through it. Failure to fully eject is a constant problem. I tried Federal ( American Eagle) high velocity copper jacketed ammo. Still consistent failures at the eject phase, Upon close examination I noticed wear on the slide at the slide stop, There is actually a burr in the metal now, I also saw several signs of wear on that slide. Needless to say it’s on its way to Walther for repairs, I’m not impressed with the gun so far.
 

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Try some CCI Mini Mags or Remington Golden Bullets. Those will rule out ammo that is too weak to cycle the slide. Federals and Winchester can be a bit on the weak side although they both work fine in my 5" suppressed pistol. Not so much in a 3.4" model. 1917
 

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What model of Ruger and what did your Ruger cost? Ruger's are good pistols....plenty of us have them and others as well. The SR22, closest one to the P22, has had issues. 1917
 

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Brand new P22CA, factory mags.

With Winchester ammo 50% of rounds wouldn't eject.
With CCI Minimag knock-off from range, 10-20% of rounds wouldn't eject.

Spent casing is firmly stuck in place, need to use a barrel rod or my finger nail to pop out brass.

Could be the gun just needs to be broken in a bit.


I've searched and read some have had mild success with the Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor. I don't mind spending $18 on a fix if it'll help.

THREAD UPDATE, SEE MY LATEST POST. IT'S GOOD TO GO WITH CCI MINI-MAG***
 

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Suggest that Walter isn’t one of the best guns out there the P 22 is an understatement in my opinion it’s just a flat out lousy gun it does not perform well it has constant problems with his failures to eject failure to feed and no matter how many times I send it back to Walther they can’t fix the problem in fact they deny there’s a problem
 

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If you are interested Xcop, we can take your issues one by one and I bet sort it out. The Ruger SR22 with an aluminum slide has the same issue with the slide hold open arm being peened to a sharp edge, dragging along the underside of the slide and causing wear. I keep mine lightly stoned to prevent this. It won't ruin either pistol but I just don't like it. MK series pistols are all steel and in an entirely differente category. Steel is much tougher but is heavy. BTW my Colt 1911's and Ruger MK pistols say to not routinely release the slide with the hold open due to wear concerns. Other pistols have different designs....a PP series pistol for example has the hold open/ejector catch securely on the steel breech face....Walther's solution, retract the slide to allow the part to drop. This minimizes wear to the part and lower breech face. Other pistols have a manual thumb release but regardless, repeated use of the part will wear edges especially if hardened pins are inserted to stop wear at the catch notch.

What does Mini Mag knock off ammo mean? Are they CCI Mini Mags or not? P22s and other short barrel semi autos with full slides need a firm grip and ammo that produce enough blowback energy to cycle the slide. When you have feeding or ejection issues you have to take solutions one at time. I've had a wide variety of these inexpensive pistols beginning with a 2004 model. I do make a few changes to them but the run fine with proper ammo. Holler if you want to dig into it a bit. 1917
 

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What model of Ruger and what did your Ruger cost? Ruger's are good pistols....plenty of us have them and others as well. The SR22, closest one to the P22, has had issues. 1917
Sorry missed this a while back... Charger 22LR takedown. I've got it equipped with brace and bipod, so it almost feels like cheating when I'm shooting groups. Spent around $350 on it if I recall correctly.
 

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Charger 22LR takedown. I've got it equipped with brace and bipod, so it almost feels like cheating when I'm shooting groups. Spent around $350 on it if I recall correctly.
How can you compare a compact 22lr pistol to a cut down 10/22 rifle? It IS cheating comparing the 2 even without the brace and bipod.
 

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The closest Ruger pistol to the P22 is Ruger's take on copying the P22 with their SR22. It has had some problems as well; take down lever crushing which lets the slide move too far rearward, lift over the rails and be launched down range by the recoil spring. The slide hold open arm scratches the slide in the exact same manner as the P22 does if not kept touched up, the barrel has a screw that holds it onto the frame and if allowed to loosen the barrel is ruined the next shot. The pistol is not designed for complete disassembly. Like the P22 I think Ruger has taken a look at some of these weaknesses and tried to address them. I've shot some, I like them but I'd really like to be able to take the entire pistol apart, inspect the sear, hammer hooks, etc. It isn't an all steel MK pistol but even the MK IV has had a number of issues. Manufacturers coming out with new firearms every couple of years is part of the blame for this. Not enough testing time in my opinion. 1917
 
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