[PartyBarge]

Brand new P22CA, factory mags.

With Winchester ammo 50% of rounds wouldn't eject.
With CCI Minimag knock-off from range, 10-20% of rounds wouldn't eject.

Spent casing is firmly stuck in place, need to use a barrel rod or my finger nail to pop out brass.

Could be the gun just needs to be broken in a bit.


I've searched and read some have had mild success with the Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor. I don't mind spending $18 on a fix if it'll help.

*******THREAD UPDATE, SEE MY LATEST POST. IT'S GOOD TO GO WITH CCI MINI-MAG**********

 

[1917-1911M]

If the cases are getting stuck in the chamber it is likely the chamber needs a good scrubbing with a brass brush. Rounds should freely drop in and fall out. The extractor plays no part in extracting a spent case when firing. That job is assigned to blow back gasses. Carefully clean and then inspect the chamber. Do the drop a round in test. 1917

 

[PartyBarge]

If the cases are getting stuck in the chamber it is likely the chamber needs a good scrubbing with a brass brush. Rounds should freely drop in and fall out. The extractor plays no part in extracting a spent case when firing. That job is assigned to blow back gasses. Carefully clean and then inspect the chamber. Do the drop a round in test. 1917

After brushing, cleaning, and oiling the feed ramp, the drop in got better but still would hang 90% of the way in, could be the tolerance with the oil in there.

 

[PartyBarge]

The extractor plays no part in extracting a spent case when firing. 1917

Help me with this part please. I thought the claw on the extractor grabs the brass and pulls it back out of the barrel.

 

[1917-1911M]

Nah, oil isn't that thick but you don't really need oil in the chamber...what it must be is clean and I mean clean. Lead polishes up just like steel and fools many a gun owner. But, since you have actually responded....I can't tell you how many have gotten a lot of help but never came back...we can look at some other things. What ammo are you using. Plain lead rounds can foul the chamber and barrel faster than plated .22 rounds, especially if you fire them fast and heat up the barrel.

If really cleaning the chamber doesn't resolve this problem you will need to look at your cases for scratches that should not be along the body of the round. What ammo again...are you using? Some ammo has been problematic....like Armscore....the cases split. I've seen a few cases split on a lot of ammo. If you see scratches that should not be on the rims...have a close look inside the chamber. You can index the position of the scratches with regard to the firing pin strike. The firing pin hits at 12 o:clock. Scratches at 9 might indicate something in the 9 position within the chamber.

Having spent cases stick in the chamber is not a routine problem with P22s. One thing Walther seems to excel at is barrel making....even on the P22. With the slide locked back or removed....rounds should basically drop into the chamber. 1917

 

[1917-1911M]

No, stop hiding your grass in the barrel.... The extractor does play two very important parts. One, it is used to grab the rim of a cartridge when manually cycling the slide, to unload for example, and, when the left hand side of the rim hits the ejector and bounces off, the extractor plays a part in how consistent ejection direction is.

When firing, the P22, Ruger SR22, Smith M&P 22, etc. all cycle due to blowback gases. In all firearms...the fired round leaves the muzzle long before any part of the pistol moves due to recoil. This is due to the firearm being much heavier than the projectile. But, when firing....the gas generated by the burning powder forces the projectile out the end of the muzzle with enough imparted energy into the spent case to blow it out of the chamber, push the slide rearward with enough energy to compress the recoil spring, cock the hammer and still hit the ejector with enough energy to cause the case to bounce out of the pistol.

If you ever have a stuck case...on the P22 you can clamp your thumb down on the forward portion of the extractor to make it really bite hard against the rim when cycling the slide. 1917

 

[1917-1911M]

I see you listed your ammo. Sorry I missed that. If you are having issues with CCI Mini Mags then it isn't the ammo. Clean the chamber and inspect the spent brass. If you are having to knock the spent case out....something is wrong in the chamber. I've never owned a P22 that needed breaking in....a few mods...yep, in my opinion. If you make that chamber spotless and still have problems.....Walther is a phone call away and the pistol has a lifetime warranty. they pay for shipping and repair. 1917

 

[PartyBarge]

Got it. I'll dig into this again tomorrow morning.

 

[Plumas]

For what its worth my new P22CA acted the same way. As already mentioned, I gave it a good cleaning focusing on the chamber and under the ejector hook with a brass brush and allowed Breakfree CLP to set overnight then another good scrub with Hoppes....plus about 200 rounds after this has eliminated 95% of the issue.
CCI mini-mags are about the most reliable...Aguila...forget it, at least in mine, 75% stovepipe or failure to clear. So clearly 'my' P22 likes some ammo and not others.

 

[Fritzdecatze]

having great luck with this ammo in my P22
https://gun.deals/product/aguila-22-long-rifle-40gr-copper-plated-round-nose-500box-3999

 

[PartyBarge]

Sorry I didn't dig into it like I said, went camping. I'll strip it back down this week and work on it again.

 

[ke1234567]

polishing?

So I have a P22 that i bought new last year. Have had FTE and FTF issues with standard velocity. I've sanded hammer down (to eliminate it catching the slide) and polished the feed ramp. I need to test it.

But I read another users post about lubing the outside of the barrel and obviously the slide grooves. Has anyone polished the slide grooves? Just wondering if that would improve the action and help to eliminate the FTF issues, or at least the rough slide action during operation.

thx

 

[Plumas]

That may have been part of the issue with mine handled by a few hundred rounds breaking in. The slide areas that touch have polished themselves. But standard velocity ammo is not on my P-22's diet, simply won't spit them out them reliably.

Getting the ramp just right, the hammer 'touch' reduced during cycling, changing the ejector to an after-market (Volquartsen) and trying every 22 brand and style I could find (CCI mini-mag won, Rem HV GB a very close 2nd) has cured most all of my FTF and FTE issues.

Thanks to sage advice by 1917-1911M and others. After close to 1500 total rounds it is a fun and 99% reliable little shooter. Mine was definitely not a polished and competition ready weapon out of the box. I chose to try different attacks found on this forum, keep searching, the answers are here for you too.

 

[ke1234567]

Thanks. I've read and seen vids of the Volquartzen ejector. I think that may be my last upgrade. Going to order two, since I pick up my second P22 this weekend. Thx

 

[1917-1911M]

So I have a P22 that i bought new last year. Have had FTE and FTF issues with standard velocity. I've sanded hammer down (to eliminate it catching the slide) and polished the feed ramp. I need to test it.

But I read another users post about lubing the outside of the barrel and obviously the slide grooves. Has anyone polished the slide grooves? Just wondering if that would improve the action and help to eliminate the FTF issues, or at least the rough slide action during operation.

thx

Just a note for everyone. Ft Smith does not like home smithin'...some folks can do it properly and not require new parts....other folks ruin the part. If you re-profile the face of the hammer all it takes is a very little bit of material removal. The hammer face must remain high enough so that the slide presses the hammer rearward enough for the sear to catch it. The hammer measured from the rear knurles to the face must remain greater than 0.5".

I doubt there is any benefit to polishing the zinc rails or slide grooves. Properly, lightly lubed with plenty of shooting will quickly do all the polishing that is necessary. I use dry, powdered moly to keep the slide grooves from being able to even touch the rails due to the relatively soft nature of the zinc material. It works well too. No measurable rail wear in 30K to 40K rounds back when I kept regular measurements on all this stuff. Light lube on the barrel sleeve, recoil spring assembly and lower breech rail (where the hammer rubs) won't hurt anything. Keep the pistol clean and very lightly lubed is my recommendation.

Basically, this pistol requires a snappy round to move the full slide, compress all the springs and eject the spent case. Most of the drag on the slide is from the breech rail dragging along the hammer which exerts full upward pressure on the bottom of the slide. 1917

 

[Plumas]

Again I find the input from 1917-1911M worth agreeing with. One must consider each post and understand the personal ownership of a decision to tinker with a factory design (and factory warranty)...That being said:
I like the dry moly lube idea... seems that if you can get the rails to ride 'high' on that film it should reduce friction. I could be wrong but isn't that the idea behind some lubes that include Teflon in their formulas, Rem-Oil for one.

 

[BCD45]

Just a note for everyone. Ft Smith does not like home smithin'...some folks can do it properly and not require new parts....other folks ruin the part. If you re-profile the face of the hammer all it takes is a very little bit of material removal. The hammer face must remain high enough so that the slide presses the hammer rearward enough for the sear to catch it. The hammer measured from the rear knurles to the face must remain greater than 0.5".

I doubt there is any benefit to polishing the zinc rails or slide grooves. Properly, lightly lubed with plenty of shooting will quickly do all the polishing that is necessary. I use dry, powdered moly to keep the slide grooves from being able to even touch the rails due to the relatively soft nature of the zinc material. It works well too. No measurable rail wear in 30K to 40K rounds back when I kept regular measurements on all this stuff. Light lube on the barrel sleeve, recoil spring assembly and lower breech rail (where the hammer rubs) won't hurt anything. Keep the pistol clean and very lightly lubed is my recommendation.

Basically, this pistol requires a snappy round to move the full slide, compress all the springs and eject the spent case. Most of the drag on the slide is from the breech rail dragging along the hammer which exerts full upward pressure on the bottom of the slide. 1917

1917, I tried sending you a PM but your box is full.
Jim D

 

[1917-1911M]

I cleared out some. 1917

 

[1917-1911M]

Be sure and look at thirdflat's thread regarding stuck cases. I believe there is something wrong with his chamber and perhaps other late model Q and QD pistols have the same issue. 1917

 

[ke1234567]

thanks for the info. yes, i've lightly sanded the hammer, but i'm ordering a better polishing tip for my dremel to do a little more polishing on the feed ramp. i've already stocked up on mini-mags, and i just received two Volq extractors. just need to install and test it out. thanks again.