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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the day started of normally thought i would spend some time with my P22 plinking in the barn, about 40 rounds in a extra loud round went off and i could not believe my eyes the slide had not only failed in the way you hear about small crack here and there but the top part was blown off and after searching for ages for the missing part i realized blown up too as it had stuck in the beam which was about 3 ft above my head.

so what do you think about that?
 

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What ammo were you using?

And that's the P22Q.

I was just shooting mine night before last. Yes, I used eye protection. As one should with ANY gun.
 

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Looks like you somehow had a case blowout, which directed the gasses up through the loaded chamber indicator hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the ammo i was using is eley semi-auto a 42 grain subsonic round, ... case blowout sounds right although i could not find suspect case.

can someone tell me does the complete upper assembly in the slide come out complete as one piece? (thinking about repair here 'empty slide' $85 'complete slide' $155 .... or someone point to a thread on slide breakdown?
 

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Hi. I'm new to the forum & the reason I joined is because I have some small cracks in the slide of a recently purchased (used) P22. Sorry to hear that you're having issues with the same (glad you're ok). I wish I had something useful to say, but I don't; I actually have a question: where can I buy a slide? (I saw in your post that you referenced prices) I have been unable to find one.
 

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can someone tell me does the complete upper assembly in the slide come out complete as one piece? (thinking about repair here 'empty slide' $85 'complete slide' $155 .... or someone point to a thread on slide breakdown?
You need to call Ft Smith. The pistol has a lifetime warranty. Walther should send you a mailing slip to ship it too them. The breech block does come out of the rear of the slide. You have to drive the small pin out that is under the safety lever when set to fire. But, leave it alone. Unload and send to Walther for repair. Yes, they have been doing this on occasion for.....well since they were introduced.
Crete had a very similar fracture. Glad you were not hurt.

Hi. I'm new to the forum & the reason I joined is because I have some small cracks in the slide
There are no small cracks in the slide of a P22...if it has a crack do not fire it. Call Ft Smith also and request they repair your pistol. There should be no charge for either of you. M1911
 

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If you have a pic of the piece stuck in the beam, I'd send that too. Might be enough to prompt a design change. A chunk of metal ejected with enough force to lodge in a wooden beam could just as easily cut some important parts of a shooter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
does anyone know is there a upgraded slide made of steel? i have read in a few places that have referenced a steel slide but never found one ..... also is the nickel colored slide actually nickel?
 

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That looks like an older model to me.....still.....:mad: M1911
I thought I could see the grooves on the front of the slide like my P22Q has...maybe I looked at it wrong, I don't know.

I do know one damned thing...I've got several little boxes of Stingers that I will NOT be running through mine. In fact, mine is pretty much out of service from here on. Fancy little paperweight, and nothing else.

I'd also throw in an emoticon, but there's none available to match my dark, evil mood..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You need to call Ft Smith. The pistol has a lifetime warranty. Walther should send you a mailing slip to ship it too them. The breech block does come out of the rear of the slide. You have to drive the small pin out that is under the safety lever when set to fire. But, leave it alone. Unload and send to Walther for repair. Yes, they have been doing this on occasion for.....well since they were introduced.
Crete had a very similar fracture. Glad you were not hurt.

Thanks1917-1911M i have only used this forum twice and both times you are the one that has answered my question... i do not live in usa unfortunately but thanks for advice .. re breech block what size is punch for removing pin? that's something i will need to do myself when i get new slide.
 

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does anyone know is there a upgraded slide made of steel? i have read in a few places that have referenced a steel slide but never found one ..... also is the nickel colored slide actually nickel?
A steel slide would not work as it would be too heavy. All the other manufacturers of "tactical" .22s use high-strength aluminum for their slides, which stands up a lot better than zinc.
 

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Thanks 1917-1911M i have only used this forum twice and both times you are the one that has answered my question... i do not live in usa unfortunately but thanks for advice .. re breech block what size is punch for removing pin? that's something i will need to do myself when i get new slide.
Hmmmm? Didn't know that. The pistol is made in Germany and parts are available from there. If you have the service manual that came with the pistol there should be some information on who to contact for service. That is where Crete, in Crete, gets his parts. If you don't have anything with your pistol regarding contacts visit a gun shop and see if a new pistol might have the contact information in the manual. A quick photo of it and you are on your way.

To remove the breech block..:

remove the slide
place the safety levers in the safe position
support the top side of the slide as close as you can to the safety levers.
You will need to hammer the roll pin out of the slide and you do not want to do this with the slide resting on the levers.
I place my slide on the edge of a roll of duct tape, electrical tape, etc.
a 1/8" flat nose drift is used along with a small hammer to tap out the pin
It doesn't make any difference which direction.
I usually go out the right side.
Those new alligator tooth pins are in there pretty solidly but will come out.

Once the pin is removed you must set the safety lever to fire.
This is because there is a small cam that locks the firing pin in place while the safety is set to safe.
Take the same drift and lightly tap on a shoulder of the breech block that doesn't touch anything and tap it forward.
With about 1/8" movement it will come free
move it forward and out of the bottom of the slide.

be sure to inspect all parts and clean them while it is out. In fact I would install a new firing pin and firing pin spring before installing in a new slide. Keep the old parts. The small spring on top of the firing pin block is a bit tricky when reinserting the breech block into a new slide but take your time and you will get it. There is a gap under the slide where two legs on the breech block fit in order to slide the assembly back into the pistol. Double check for free movement of the firing pin block before driving the pin back through the slide and breech block. You will have to set the safety to fire once again to insert the breech block and then to safe before driving in the pin. Good luck. M1911



These are all the parts that make up the breech block. Nothing more.



Properly assembled breech block ready for re assembly into the slide.
 
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