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Discussion Starter #1
After having the Walther P22 for several years and mostly shooting cci ammo with it I have not had to much trouble with it. Now that 22 ammo is harder to get I wanted my p22 to shoot more reliably with other types of ammo. I know everything I have modified has already been posted (thank you 1917-1911M for all your help). What I wanted to do is show a video of a before and after modification in slow motion to prove the difference. After this modification I have been able to sucsesully shoot Winchester wildcat, Remington gold, CCI, and Federal.


I'm not going into a lot of detail on the modification I have done because they have been talked about in other threads.

The items/tools I used to do the modifications.

-Miscellaneous Sandpaper grits
-Hard flat surface for sandpaper (I used a piece of corner molding and electric tape the sand paper to the end of it)
-Pencil files
-flitz polishing compound
-dremel
-polish wheels

http://i.imgur.com/SNlNtmFl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/W9KMfIgl.jpg


Modifications I did
- removed the magazine safety spring this has nothing to do with making the gun shoot more reliably. It just drives me nuts not being able to pull the trigger with out the magazine in the gun. This is part number 24 in the owners manual.

- Polished the feed ramp, I used the dremel with the bullet shaped felt wheel. I bought some on amazon that already have the bar attached to the felt so you don't have to worry about the screw threads stripping out on the dremel brand style. With just a small amount of flitz polishing compound this feed ramp will look like a mirror.

http://i.imgur.com/mFN2JTJl.jpg

- Polished the breach block and safety stop. So the main problem with the P22 that I noticed is the high amount of friction from the slide rubbing the hammer. So I polished and removed just a slight amount of material off the safety stop. Also polished the breach block and removed the scratches from the hammer rubs.

http://i.imgur.com/g2uArZyl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/obXkGUjl.jpg

- Polished and reshaped the hammer. This is the number one must for the P22 there is so much friction from the flat area on the hammer rubbing on the safety stop and breach block. I removed the flat section very slowly with some 220 sand paper on my flat surface (corner round wood). I did this with the hammer still installed on the gun. Once I got it close to where I wanted it I used 600 sand paper to polish some. Then followed it with some flitz and the dremel. One thing to watch is making sure the hammer stays level across the area that rubs the breach block. You will know if you have a high side if it scratches your shinny breach block.

http://i.imgur.com/RtKSJcVl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oicmHj8l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Hnr5H1Zl.jpg

- Then I polished the trigger bar ears from the damage it does to the slide. I don't have a picture of this.
 

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I see some pretty good work there PZ45. Nice job on getting the hammer re-profile correct. Some folks go way overboard there. All it needs is the tip removed. Good work. The rear breech block mod helps with the slide moving forward where the real issues is with the slide. Polishing is almost always of benefit. If you want those weaker rounds to cycle the slide I've found that clipping two coils off the recoil spring addresses that issue quite nicely but it does weaken the recoil spring when it comes to closing the slide. That isn't an issue for me as I eliminated hammer drag on the rear of the breech block and safety drum but you really need to know what you are doing before attempting that mod. I still install an O ring on the guide rod to buffer the slides rearward stop. Good work. M1911

Oh yeah, what were you making the slo mo video with? My camera won't go quite that slow.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, it just takes a little bit of work and some patients. About the recoil spring, I had thought about shortening it. After I did this work to mine my buddy brought his over for me to help him work on his Gen 3 p22. Mine seems to be a Gen 2 with a new style extractor and the barrel already cut for the feeding. We compared recoil springs and his seemed to be 1 coil longer both factory untouched.

Do you know if they Walther has changed springs along the way?

He has put more rounds through his than I have so you would think his would be more worn. Anyways after seeing that I was afraid to shorten mine without having a spare spring.
I'm hopping to shoot some more rounds this weekend to prove that it is working well, I have only put a few clips through it without any problems.

The oring you installed is that good to do without a modified spring or just if you modify it?

My video was shot using a GoPro, one toy I keep finding new uses for...
 

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Really, I have a GoPro 3+ Haven't used it much and then only in the car attached to the windshield. Will have to look into this.

It isn't uncommon to find different length recoil springs due to age or amount of rounds fired. You can count the coils to see if there is a difference. Or, fully compress on the guide rod and measure the stack.

There is an O ring thread around here somewhere that goes into all of the story there. The recoil spring cup on the bottom of the muzzle end of the slide hits the polymer take down lever to stop the slides rearward movement. Over the years there have been slide fractures of the very thin zinc slide. I was fooling around trying to figure out a buffer, we had been thinking about such for a number of years, when I purchased some rubber O rings for faucets at Lowes. The ones I chose fit over the recoil spring and guide rod. The O ring just floats in there but it acts as a rubber buffer between the muzzle cup and hard polymer take down lever. There is no trick to it, just the right size O ring. They are inexpensive and you can't tell one is in there. Does it help...I have no idea but it should perform as expected. The O ring has nothing to do with any modifications, it is simply a buffer.

I recommended the same to the Ruger SR22 crowd who were breaking the take down levers and now many of them install the same O ring. M1911
 

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:mad: So how do you set the Hero3+ to the highest quality slo motion. That book that comes with it is worthless and the print is so small I'd have to hook up the microscope to read it. I've run through all of the programs that I can find by punching buttons on the camera......and I hate acronyms also when it comes to computer stuff. MSTCFP....that kinda stuff. Who knows what that means? Can't they find someone that speaks plain engrish? M1911

and is there a way to get if off of wide angle?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I agree about the directions, it seems like its up to the user to figure it out on their own.

I'm not home right now so I don't have my GoPro with me to double check this, and I have the Hero3 Black. I believe the 3 and the 3+ run the same firmware so it should be the same. There was a video mode WVGA which was a lower resolution thats why the video is not the best quality but it allows you to shoot in 240fps.

I do think there is a setting to turn off the wide angle but it will always look wide do to nature of the lens. It gives that fish eye effect.

Also it helps if you get the GoPro apps for your phone or tablet, it lets you change the settings on the screen versus on the GoPro it self.
 
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