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Discussion Starter #21
Then you must have some really dud ammo. If you are getting deep indentations to the ammo and it isn't firing...that is an ammo problem. 1917
Ammo is good and I tried different brands, Federal as well as CCI. I checked with two other P22's I have and they functioned flawlessly.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
When a P22 won't fire, the first thing you check is the safety...flipped forward, lever parallel with the barrel is fire. If good to go there make sure a round is fully seating and the slide is closing and that there is a round in the chamber. If good to go there, unload, cock the hammer and make sure the firing pin is fully resetting to the rear and that it moves freely. If good to go there check the brass to see if you are getting a solid firing pin mark. It takes 8 lbs of pull to cock the hammer with a new main spring. Once is drops below 7 lbs hits become inconsistent. Some might fire, some not. Time for a new spring. Also if the chamber gets dirty and a round doesn't fully seat you can get a light stroke on the first hammer fall but no ignition. The problem is that the round "gives" with the first hit, is now fully seated and will fire with the second hammer strike. The problem here is a dirty chamber. Clean it. A round should easily drop into the chamber under the pull of gravity. But, .22s also get chambers dirty...so, a clean chamber always ranks up there with routine maintenance.

Rounds fully seating? Safety set to fire? Are you getting a firing pin mark on the rim? If not or if the strike is light time to check the other stuff. 1917
Its a failure to fire the whole time. I haven't had one fire yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Nah, don't send it back until we figure out what is wrong. If the firing pin is broken they can send you a new firing pin and you can put it in. How are you going to pass gunsmithin' 101 sendin' stuff back? 1917
I should have time to work on it this week. Issue is I have to take it the range to test/shoot. Can just do it off the back yard here...
 

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Lets go back to step one.

1. the safety lever must be flipped up parallel with the barrel to be in the fire position. This does two things, presents a flat surface to the hammer so that it isn't blocked from hitting the firing pin and there is a cam on top of the safety that locks the firing pin. Rotating the safety to fire frees the firing pin from this cam.
2. the firing pin must reset all the way to the rear after each shot. With the safety rotated to fire the firing pin should stick out just a small amount so that the hammer can hit it.
3. the firing pin must move back and forth freely
4. the firing pin block must disengage when the front arm of the sear drops, this occurs when the trigger is pulled and the sear rotates counter clockwise. With the slide off check the little oval button to insure that it moves smoothly up and down. Up blocks the firing pin. The front arm of the sear holds it up until the trigger is pulled.
5. a round must fully seat in the chamber...a round should drop into the chamber, all the way in, under the pull of gravity. Make sure several rounds easily drop into the chamber.
6. The slide must fully close
7. Do all of this and if you have a no fire do two things.

a. check the position of the hammer. Is it all the way down against the rear of the safety drum or caught slightly off by the secondary hammer hook.

b. check the rim of the round in the chamber to see if you are getting a good firing pin mark.

If the primary hook is too short the hammer can be caught on the secondary hook...so called half cock notch. If this is happening Ft Smith will have to fix. Walther really lowered the primary hook on the QD pistol...probably 0.020". Great for a better trigger but could allow the hammer to fall without the sear being fully rotated out of the way of the secondary hook. Never seen it....but could happen.

If the chamber is dirty or out of spec a round might not quite fully seat. When this happens the round will "give" with the first firing pin strike and usually fire on the second hammer strike.

So if the pistol isn't firing....something up above isn't happening. I see no reason that the dummy round would be solidly struck and not a real round unless the chamber is dirty or out of spec and normal ammo is not fully seating.

All of this assumes the firing pin isn't broken. You can remove the breech block and have a look at everything but it is a bit tricky to get back in unless you are pretty good with this type of thing. 1917
 

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The rear of the firing pin should stick out of the safety like this when it is rotated to fire. if it doesn't something is wrong inside and you need to remove the breech block to find out what or contact Ft Smith.



Sollid firing pin strikes. This is what you are looking for. 1917
 

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Thor.....did you ever get the pistol for fire. You can hold the barrel down pretty close to the ground and fire without making a lot of noise if you are just checking function. Into some folded up rags laying on the ground is even better. 1917
 
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