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All P22 owners should download the P22 Bible PDF.

http://gunlink.info/forums/index.php?topic=19.0

http://www.spentbrass.com/pistol/walther/p22/P22_bible.pdf

Here are a few more specific websites -

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100700

http://forum.pafoa.org/pistols-41/42065-walther-p22-help.html

http://www.id-ord.com/archives/41

If you have any questions about P22's, the rimfirecental forum is THE place for answers.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=48

It is suggested that you polish the 'ears' on the trigger bar and hammer strut.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152384
 

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There are a lot more threads on the P22 at RFC than listed above. I have done one on a pictorial of the internal function of fire control parts. One on what I have found that need modding on a '09 AK model including the sloppy job someone along the line is doing on chamfering the chamber entrance and in the process removing too much metal from the extractor cut. There is a thread on the weekly occurring problem of " my P22 will only fire in SA or the hammer is catching on the safety notch", there is a magazine history thread. The two bad magazines are the originals which have no rim stagger slot and the '06 short slot "A" suffix mags. All long slot "A" suffix and "B" mags are good....the only bad news...'09 guns now only come with 1 mag.

Over the years Walther has made some improvements. The barrel nut comes with an "O" ring to help it stay put. The slide return spring has been lengthened 1/4" to aid in the slide returning and to cushion the impact of the slide against the takedown stop lever. A new extractor has been installed to reduce the gap but my new AK model had an original extractor in it...:confused: The new B mags have a serial number stamped on them, thanks California, :mad: I'm sure that cost us more, the B mags have thicker metal so the lips retain their shape better.

The frame screws and safety lever screws have some sort of locktite on them to keep them in place. The safety levers have been tightened up and no longer rotate when the hammer drags over the safety. The hammer tip was re-profiled in an attempt to keep the hammer tip from catching in the gap between the breech block and safety bar but Walther didn't get the angle quite right and the hammer face still benefits slide closure from a slight reprofile to eliminate this new point. All roll pins with exception of the extractor pin are now alligator tooth pins and they will stay put.

Walther is offering the pistol with a variety of polymer housing colors and textures but all in all a new P22 is 99% the same as an '02 model and the only parts that will damage the P22 are the still sharp trigger bar ears. Someone has been polishing on them as of late but they haven't gotten that right either. Check my thread on my new AK P22 at RFC to see pictures of all this. And, be safe and keep shooting. :)

And anything I ever post you guys are free to do with as you please. Copy the pictures, do whatever. Just glad I can be of help. Plenty of other folks help me with this and that. M1911
 

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I downloaded your P22 Bible and need to thank you for putting together such a clear and comprehensive document. The pictures were fantastic and quite helpful. I can't remember the last time I shot my P22 and got through a magazine without a ftf. I had never broken the pistol down beyond a fieldstrip for cleaning before reading your post. Apprehensively, and only because I was at my wits end, I followed some of your suggested modifications (files and Dremmel in hand) and my last trip to the range was fantastic! Not a single failure to feed!

Thusly Sir, I sincerely thank you for bringing life back to a pistol that would have otherwise lived out its days at the bottom of my safe.
 

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Thanks for the info. I just got a p22 and I read the bible three times. My new gun came fully lubricated but the slide was rough moving forward. Like too much friction. I looked at where the hammer drags and saw the wear markings. I used a product called TRI Flow ( oil with Teflon particals suspended in it) where the hammer drags. It was like a switch! Slide glides like butter. 200 rds at the range today without a hitch.
 

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I will say it again incase you missed it there is no need to make modifications or change parts to your P-22, just use mini mags or stingers and lube the pistol with moly or other firearms oils and fire a few hundred rounds. the problems only occur when one becomes cheap and refuses to use the more expensive ammo
sprat
 

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I will say it again incase you missed it there is no need to make modifications or change parts to your P-22, just use mini mags or stingers and lube the pistol with moly or other firearms oils and fire a few hundred rounds. the problems only occur when one becomes cheap and refuses to use the more expensive ammo
sprat
:p :p :p Good one sprat. M1911
 

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Nice picture work. What symptom does the stop help correct?
There isn't really an issue here. But many target pistols are adjustable for pre-travel and over-travel. Taking out some of the excess forward movement of the trigger beyond what is necessary for reliable resetting and excess movement rearward makes for smoother shooting, sometimes eliminates trigger finger pinch on some pistols, keeps your trigger finger a bit further from the mag release if you have big fingers. It also allows faster follow up but the biggest difference to me is that it makes the trigger/sear feel much smoother and crisp.

Pre-travel is possible but a little more problematic due to the shape of the front of the trigger inside the frame. On DAO self defense pistols you should always have plenty of excess movement so that your pistol will absolutely reset and release the hammer. This is not so important on a plinker and you can actually adjust the trigger where it stops almost immediately after breaking the sear from the hammer. The trigger just breaks and doesn't move any more toward the rear. It just feels good and is something experienced in higher precision trigger assemblies. M1911
 

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I use CLP for almost everything. Is this good enough to keep a P22 chugging along?
Here is my 2 cents on that. CLP is an excellent lubricant and I use it on about everything but my P22. Whether or not it is a good lubricant on the P22 depends on a couple of things like....how much do you shoot and how much do you shoot between cleanings?

I wore out my first P22, an '03 or '04 model in 4,000 rounds using Tetra gun grease and Hoppes #9. I cleaned it regularly but fired it a lot, 500, 1000 times at a sitting sometimes. Then wear at the slide grooves and frame rails took it down. I monkeyed around with it for another 4,000 rounds, modifying this and that to keep it running like sear work to allow the hammer to keep being cocked, slide stop arm work to allow the arm to reach high enogh to catch the ever rising slide. And then it was shot.

The problem was that oil and grease will collect spent particles of carbon, powder, grit and make a lapping compound that will eat the zinc rails and grooves up. So, after a lot of testing and taking micrometer measurements of a new pistol, then measurements every 500 rounds at critical wear areas I found that cleaning with Gunscrubber, blow dry......give the entire inside a good spraying with Remington Remoil with Teflon, blow dry and then I rub a little "dry" powdered moly on wear surfaces. After over 25,000 rounds my micrometer could detect no wear, even measuring to 0.001". The moly apparently does not allow opposing zinc components to touch.

If you use oil, I would wipe off all excess. One guy who has over 100,000 rounds on his suppressed pistol never does anything to it. No oil, grease, or moly. He took off the slide and pictured the inside one time after I asked to see this. It looked exactly like what you would think. Completely filled with junk but apparently zinc is a good lubricant in and of itself. I couldn't treat even a plinker like that though. ;) M1911
 

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I'm wondering if the (factory new) P22 has been improved any (now that it's 2012) and are the mods in the "P22 Bible" still recommended?
 

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I'm wondering if the (factory new) P22 has been improved any (now that it's 2012) and are the mods in the "P22 Bible" still recommended?
My P22Q (2011) still had the ear problem along with the drag on the hammer/slide. I'm pretty sure they will still have those 2 problems.
 

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Thanks MD426, my plan is to have my gunsmith do the "P22 Bible" fixes before I even fire the P22. I just wanted to make sure I was well informed before I discuss it with the gunsmith tomorrow and schedule the work. Unfortunately that means I'm probably going to have to wait a month before I can play with my new "toy".
 

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Thanks MD426, my plan is to have my gunsmith do the "P22 Bible" fixes before I even fire the P22. I just wanted to make sure I was well informed before I discuss it with the gunsmith tomorrow and schedule the work. Unfortunately that means I'm probably going to have to wait a month before I can play with my new "toy".
You can check for these problems prior to taking to the gun smith. Be sure your firearm is unloaded and breech is clear. Take off your slide. You can see the trigger bar ears just behind the slide release. If they look to be pointed like in the bible it will need smoothing out. Also you can manually cycle the slide a couple of time and check both the hammer and under side of the slide to see if they are contacting un-evenly, it will show drag markings on one side or another.
 
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