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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took the suggestion of some prior posts on removing some rings off of the firing pin spring to help lighten the pull. All I can say is WOW what a difference this makes. I started by just taking a couple at a time just to make sure that I didn't go to far. When I got close I took them off at a half a ring at a time to fine tune the trigger. The end result is one awsome trigger pull to match an equally awsome gun. I ended up taking off six rings total and I am very happy with that. I have both the P99c and the P99 so I was able to compare one to the other as I was doing it. I put two hundred rounds through both of these guns today with absolutely no malfunctions and complete joy with the way that it felt. The dent in the primer on the spent cartridges is just as deep as before the alteration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, both of them are AS models. I put another 100 rounds through each of them today and still no malfunctions. I don't suggest taking wire cutters to your prized pistol for the faint of heart, but for the cheap cost of a replacement spring, I figured what the heck. Everything has been great so far.
 

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Details! Details, please!

Also could you determine what the pull is now with 6 coils removed? Did it change the relationship beween the DA and striker set segments of the pull? Did it affect the DA more than when the striker is cocked?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It definately lightened the trigger pull considerably. But, more than that, it made it the smooth pull that this gun deserves. The spring that I'm talking about is on the actual striker pin (firing pin). You can follow the directions in your manual for removing the striker pin assembly which gets you part of the way. Then, I had to figure out how to remove the spring. You have to stand the firing pin assembly up on a table (make sure that you have it on something so that you don't scratch the wife's table) with the red cocked indicator down. There is a little black retainer on the end of the spring facing you that has to be removed. This black retainer is actually two halves put together. This part is a little tricky because the spring is under so much tension. You have to use your thumbnail or other object to compress the spring just under the lip of the retainer so that you can slide one of the halves out. Then do the same thing to the other side and remove the spring. Do the opposite to put it back on. You will find it easier to put back on after you remove a couple of loops on the spring. I started by just taking off a couple at a time until I got the trigger where I wanted it (I stopped at 6 loops on both guns). By the way, when you reinstall the spring, make sure that you put the end that had some loops removed towards the bottom....not towards the two-halved black retainer. I hope that this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
cigarman-
I wish that I had a way to measure the actual pounds of pull, but I don't. As far as the relationship between the DA and the striker set segments of the pull, they are at the same points throughout the pull. Everything is just much smoother and lighter. There is no more rough feelings to the DA pull and the catch at the end of the pull just before the striker is released is much less than before. The SA pull is fantastic. Not so light as to be a hair trigger, but light enough to be one of the best triggers that I've ever felt. (except for the LDA trigger on the Para Ordnance).
 

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On a .40 this modification may cause the striker to retract even slower causing it to stay stuck longer in the primer. When I talked to S&W about this they said the striker doesn't retract as fast as they want it to. Better take a look at your brass after clipping that spring to make sure the striker still retracts fast enough.
 

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[b said:
Quote[/b] (Nocturnal @ Feb. 17 2005,8:59)]On a .40 this modification may cause the striker to retract even slower causing it to stay stuck longer in the primer. When I talked to S&W about this they said the striker doesn't retract as fast as they want it to. Better take a look at your brass after clipping that spring to make sure the striker still retracts fast enough.
nocturnal, my ummodified .40 has always left a wipe or drag mark on primers

kjprice, thanks for the info. i really need to improve my trigger and will probably try it.
 

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[b said:
Quote[/b] (alex @ Feb. 17 2005,10:29)]nocturnal, my ummodified .40 has always left a wipe or drag mark on primers

kjprice, thanks for the info. i really need to improve my trigger and will probably try it.
So you're not worried about the striker retracting even slower then? I'm not too happy about the lateral forces on the striker as-is. It takes quite a bit of force to deform the primer like that.
 

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I'd think that eventually the firing pin would get bent, or at least deformed.
 

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I don't think it takes that much force to deform the primer. The primer is a soft brass, compared to the hard steel of the striker. When reloading, I've seen many of my primers have imprints in them from particles that fell into the seating cup of my reloader.

My concern would be if the striker didn't return fast enough and got caught on the lip of the case primer hole. That might cause some problems, but then again, we're talking about brass and hard steel. Over time the constant vertical pounding that the striker gets may effect it, or not.
 

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I think the issue is that a striker is made to resist the impact on the primer, not necesarily a lateral force that gets applied when the striker gets 'stuck' in the primer as the round is ejected. I agree a primer is very soft compared to the striker but the primer is stuck in a much tougher case which won't deform as easily. So at some point 'primer deformation' doesn't matter anymore and the whole case tugs on the striker. I guess we'll have to count on the case quickly rotating around the ejector and thereby clearing the striker. It would be nice to see a high speed camera recording of a round being fired by a P99.
 

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[b said:
Quote[/b] (Nocturnal @ Feb. 18 2005,1:40)]
i have never taken striker apart but it seems like the spring is to go forward only and not backwards(returning). if this is correct then a lighter spring would be helpful in faster retraction and less drag marks on primers
 

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Alex,

The spring on the striker is set to do both. It creates a load on the striker to carry it forward to hit the primer, but it also pulls the striker back to its "resting" set point.
 

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I imagine the spring is streched when the striker is cocked. Upon release the momentum of the striker allows it to extend outside the breach block where it is stopped. The spring is compressed at this point. The striker then returns to its original position (depends on action). In case of a dry fire there is no slide movement to pull the striker back again so it remains at rest. If all is well there should be a striker block in place at this time between the striker and breach opening.

If I felt adventurous I'd open the striker assembly to take a look :)
 
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