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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1990 Interarms .22 LR TPH that is driving me crazy. I purchased this gun used 3 years ago and to date have never been able to go through a full magazine without at least one misfire. Often two. :mad: However, the round will usually fire on a second or third strike.
I have tried just about every brand and type of ammo I can get my hands on. I searched and read previous threads here about the problem and tried everything suggested. I have thoroughly examined the pistol with a magnifier. No burrs, no nicks, no marks of any kind can be found. Chamber and breach face are perfect. The slide closes completely on every shot. It feeds perfectly. Cartridges fall freely in and out of the chamber.
I have replaced the hammer spring with a Wolff Extra Power spring. I have replaced the firing pin and spring and the recoil spring. The firing pin channel is clean. I have found absolutely nothing wrong with this gun!

About the only thing I can come up with is that current production .22 ammo is crap. The priming compound just isn't sensitive enough for this little gun to fire consistently.
I have heard that European ammo is better in these guns. However, nobody sells any locally. I'd have to order it and its pretty expensive for .22s. :rolleyes:
Does anybody know of any really reliable ammo for this gun?

I'm open to any and all suggestions. HELP! :eek:
 

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I wish I could help sir - only thing I can add is my stainless/US-made TPH has been 100% with CCI Mini-mags. [Although I only fired around 25 rounds thru it - mag capacity sucks!] It hides away ;) pretty close to the desktop in my office - so I just took a yellow wall-anchor (poor man's .22 snapcap) and dropped the hammer on it. Pretty deep and clear firing pin mark. Maybe, somehow, grabbing for straws here, but maybe your slide is slightly out of spec and the firing pin channel is too long for the firing pin? Any guesstimate of how much F/P protrusion you have with the pin pushed flush with the back of the slide? You didn't mention how deep the firing pin hits were on fired cases.
 

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I think I would start by having a good look at the firing pin mark on several rounds that do not fire and then decide what to do next. This is a one step at a time problem I think. From piddling with plenty of .22s, one problem I routinely run into is a dirty chamber that doesn't let a round fully seat...the round gives with the first or second firing pin strike before fully seating. It then will reliably fire. You have probably determined that a dirty chamber isn't the problem. Perhaps you can compare your firing pin length with one that someone here has that works reliably. Ran into this problem a few years ago with a Member here (I think) that had a Smith .380 Bodyguard. In the final end it was determined that the firing pin ( stop area on the pin) had not been properly machined and was not being allowed to reach forward quite enough. OAL of the pin was correct. 1917
 

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.


I'm sorry for your problem...…… :(


I recently bought an NIB Interarms .22LR TPH that came with 2 issue magazines.





Since the only ammo I had on hand was some Remington bulk and a brick of CCI Stingers, I ran both brands through both magazines.


The Remington bulk ammo exhibited sporadic duds; but the Stingers never bobbled.


I ended up running about 100 of the Stingers through it w/o any issues - so that'll be the ammo I feed it in the future.


.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Firing pin marks on cases show light strikes. I have replaced both the firing pin and the hammer spring. FP protrusion seems to be fine. The hammer just doesn't seem to have enough power to reliably set off the primer. I can find no cause for this. :(
 

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CCI MINI MAGS ,AND CCI STINGERS have ran flawlessly for me ,the Rems and Wins not so much . Try the CCI 's before you do anything else , they may solve your problem . Lots of folks on here will agree with me that have one . If you'll do a word search on the search bar on here should lead you to multiple discussions of this topic maybe even a FAQ always a good place to start looking for answers . Hope this will resolve your problem , they are great little guns I carry mine everyday . Ayb
 

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Discussion Starter #7
At one time or another, I've tried everything from CCI, Federal, Remington, Winchester and more. Always the same results. Most times it goes bang, but never complete reliability. :(
The thing is I like the little gun. I want it to work properly.
I know I could just sell it. But I just don't like the idea of dumping an unreliable gun on somebody else. That's apparently what happened to me and it just ain't right. However, I will admit that I'm just about frustrated enough to do just that. :(
IDK, I'm thinking of giving it one more try. Take the gun completely apart, examine every piece and polish the dickens out of every moving part. Make every piece work as smooth as possible. Maybe that'll fix it?
 

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Before you start polishing or "bubba-ing" your weapon why not send a PM to pilkguns. He is a Forums member who likely has forgotten more about the workings of the TPH than the rest of us have known.

He is a world renowned engraver but knows the ins and outs of these weapons and certainly would have some suggestions for you.

Give him a shout before you do anything else.
 

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Do not diy polishing or other attempts to fix it etc.
Find a knowledgeable pro as olesoul suggested.
Polishing can ruin the surface hardness (slide and rails) and change dimensions in the wrong place ( chamber and ramp).
 

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They can be contrary beasts; went thru' 3 of them 25 years ago, trying to get a reliable one. Two since have run 100%, including the current one.
Pilkguns is a good suggestion, or the go to alternate, M&M Gunsmithing.
Neat gun, not to count on. Nature of .22autos and the cartridge itself.
Moon
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I make no claims to being a Gunsmith. However I am a fairly talented hobbyist and retired mechanic. I know my limits and what I can actually do. So don't worry that I might "Bubba" the gun.That won't happen. I'm just thinking that maybe smoothing the action a bit might give the hammer fall just enough extra to reliably set off the primer. I'm thinking primarily polishing the hammer strut to eliminate any possible drag.
Anyway, its just a thought and I haven't committed to anything just yet.
Messages sent to both pilkguns and M&M Gunsmithing. Right now I'm just waiting to see what happens. However, bear in mind that cost is a real concern here.
 

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Thanks for the kudos. But I’m not looking to be in the gunsmithing business on these per se. I do have quite a few of them and slowly doing functional and cosmetic things to offer for sale.
Most everything I would check or look for has been mentioned here already. CCI mini mags or stingers seem to be the ticket for reliability as others have said. If you are having trouble with those and all the other things are checked ,( the mentioned ring in the chamber is often overlooked) then it gets to be a serious hunt. I wouldn’t want to begin to comment beyond what’s been said already without shooting it from my hand and examine first hand the stoppages. But as I said , I’m not trying to be in that market. M&M is the market expert to send it to.
 
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I . I'm thinking primarily polishing the hammer strut to eliminate any possible drag.

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You should be able to see wear evidence of that if you disassemble the spring from the strut.

I certainly have seen Gadsden parts that were not deburred 100%. But burrs only are a problem when they are in critical places.
 

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I would test with CCI Mini Mags only. You have an ignition problem for some reason. .22 ammo has to be struck hard....the first time. When trying to decide if you have an ammo or gun issue....leave the Remingtons, Feds and Winchester on the table.

If you have other .22 pistols that reliably fire then you can compare the firing pin mark on those to the ones you are getting even on the rounds that fire the first time. Perhaps your TPH just isn't hitting hard enough for reliable ignition. Some fire, some don't...hitting just hard enough to be on the edge. You have to begin somewhere and go from there. Sticking with one ammo that is generally agreed to be a good one is important.

On a side note...I ground off just a tad...probably 0.005" from the main spring on a Smith Bodyguard .380 to see if I could reduce DA pull a bit. I did, I also caused the 100% pistol to now be about a 60% reliable pistol. Light strikes....two or three firing pin strikes would fire a round. Many would fire first strike. Note: Centerfire ammo. Stuck a new mainspring back in it and it fired 100%. Then I left it alone.

It seems to me that either all of your strikes are light, or for some reason a round isn't fully seating and is giving with the first strike. Photos??? 1917

PS..I have $100 and a FFL address....:D
 

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It seems that on the Smith I was able to slip a small washer over the bottom of the mainspring strut to temporarily strengthen the too weak spring. That worked to show I had screwed it up by grinding off a bit. Who would have thought....just a tiny bit? Any gunsmith I expect. Not sure if the same could be done on a TPH or not. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Light strikes does seem to be the problem. But I've already put in a Wolff extra power hammer spring and nothing seems to be rough or gritty in the hammer function. I've replaced the firing pin and it freely moves to full travel. I'm lost here. :(
 

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Had this picture already hosted of P22 strikes on a Federal round. I also picked up some CCI and Rem cases off the floor and the strikes don't seem quite as deep as on the Federal but they are pretty deep. There is no telling if they are from a PP .22, a PPK/S .22 or a P22 at this point. Whatever...I do not see a depth difference between the Rem Goldens and CCI...either quiets or mini mags. 1917
 
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