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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guys:

When re-assembling a slide from a detailed strip, I notice 2 distinctly different ways that some senior members here suggest we go about re-assembling. Meaning--> the sequence that the extractor, its spring ( aka "Safety lever spring"...same thing)...and the safety lever get put back in.

Let's use these to help us visualize....

1.) Tanfogio's video of how to reassemble the slide---> http://www.tanfo.de/0_WA/REASSEMBLE_PPK_SLIDE.wmv

2.) My Imgur photos to help identify the parts we're talking about, with some added detail on suggested "wording" for different areas of the extractor and extractor spring retainer (pardon my poor photshop skills)-->



Here I'll identify extractor "shaft" and "ledge"..and also the "Stepped-end" of the spring plunger. We will use these terms later so we know what parts I'm trying to describe. I didn't label this on the photo, but "pointy-end" of the spring is opposite-end of the "stepped-end", as might be obvious.


Method 1 ---> says upon re-assembly, we drop the extractor...actually the "shaft" of the extractor... in the final position in the slide slot and hole,... then drop in the extractor spring (making sure the "stepped-end" sits on top of the rear part of the extractor I call the "ledge") ...and THEN try to put the safety lever/drum in-place. Doing it this way forces you to use a sharp-end tool to help retract the pointy-end ( opposite-end) of the extractor spring that protrudes...and will contact the drum of the safety lever once the safety lever is fully installed. But the safety lever can't be installed fully until you somehow retract the pointy-end of this spring to allow it to fit...something at this point that is dicey and sometimes takes 3 hands to do. Proponents include MGMike who once answered the question this way---> "When reassembling the safety, insert it in the half-way rotated position (while holding the firing pin forward) until the safety drum stops against the detent plunger (aka "pointy-end"). Use a small pick to depress the plunger and compress the extractor spring so the safety can be pushed in all the way. Rotate the safety to the "fire" position, and the firing pin should pop back through the drum to its normal rearward position".

The video from Youtube I posted before (inside thread title, http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/pp-tp-series/5823-walther-disassembly-manual.html)... suggests the same method. See here-->
, especially at time line starting at 8:53+, right through to the end, especially at 12:38 to 13:14.


Method 2. However, look at Tanfoglio's video. He uses a method that I tried independently before seeing this...and I think it is much easier. You drop-in the extractor spring with the pointy-end facing you, toward the safety-lever drum. The other end of the spring (that will contact the extractor)... should have the "stepped-end" facing inward toward the center of the pistol (round side facing "out"). Then put the firing pin and its spring in , pull it forward and hold ( maybe with hemostats, see later text)... then insert the safety lever/drum (now not hindered by any protruding extractor spring at the rear, near the drum), and then, rotate the safety lever as before to fully seat.

Here comes the incredibly easy part-->

Now you place the extractor in the slide "slot" last, with the extractor "shaft" riding the slot as you push the extractor spring "back" toward the rear of the pistol, resisted by the installed safety lever/drum. This way, the extractor "shaft" then becomes its own tool...no picks required. All of a sudden, as you reach the "stepped-end" in the proper orientation,and the extractor "shaft" falls into its hole in the slide....it simply SNAPS IN with no pin-punch tools ! The other pointy-end of the extractor spring is already in-place against the installed safety lever drum. Look at the Tanfoglio video who also uses this method. You have to look quick, as it happens so easily...at time line 1:32 to 1:36. It turns out in my talks with Tom Heller (Lugerman), a known gunsmiith for these guns on this forum....that he approaches this the same way.

I went either of these methods one-step better. To free your hands after pushing the firing pin forward, I used locking hemostats (suitably padded) to hold the firing pin "forward" against spring pressure...for as long as needed in your work. This frees your hands for other duties and you don't need 3 hands ! Something like this---> Amazon.com: 8" Stainless Steel Locking Hemostat Clamp Fish Hook Remover: Sports & Outdoors

I hope this helps someone when they do a re-assembly of a slide... once taken down as part of a detailed strip.



 

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Discussion Starter #5
I like your handle... "Kweeksdraw".....like in "Kweeksdraw McGraw" and Babaloo ???
 

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WALTHER KING
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all roads lead to Rome :D

I still contend that the installation of the extractor at the end of the simplest and most gentle.
 

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my spring/extractor plunger will not fit out the extractor end of the hole. :confused:

i HAD to remove it from the rear of the slide. it WILL NOT go out the extractor side at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Brobs:
You say... " my spring/extractor plunger will not fit out the extractor end of the hole. :confused:
i HAD to remove it from the rear of the slide. it WILL NOT go out the extractor side at all...".

I also REMOVED it from the rear of the slide.....the 2 methods I describe here talk about something else...it talks about GETTING IT BACK IN. That said, once the rear safety lever/drum is removed...and once the extractor itself is removed, the spring ( with its 2 end-pieces) should be able to move in/out either the front or back of the "hole" or "channel" in which it resides. There is not much holding stuff back.

The whole point of the write-up is how to REASSEMBLE..... not DISASSEMBLE.

To Tanfoglio....that is the bias I show too...it was much, much easier using method 2, as you did in your video.

To Kweeksdraw....how about "El Kabong"?..... does THAT bring back memories?
 

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Brobs:
You say... " my spring/extractor plunger will not fit out the extractor end of the hole. :confused:
i HAD to remove it from the rear of the slide. it WILL NOT go out the extractor side at all...".

I also REMOVED it from the rear of the slide.....the 2 methods I describe here talk about something else...it talks about GETTING IT BACK IN. That said, once the rear safety lever/drum is removed...and once the extractor itself is removed, the spring ( with its 2 end-pieces) should be able to move in/out either the front or back of the "hole" or "channel" in which it resides. There is not much holding stuff back.

The whole point of the write-up is how to REASSEMBLE..... not DISASSEMBLE.
i understand the point of the write up..

i'm saying even with the extractor removed my plunger/spring will NOT fit out the extractor side. :confused:
it will only go as far as it normally does when it contacts the extractor.

not sure why.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Well....coupla things....

1.) I may have to rethink my answer whether or not the spring with its end-pieces was able to slide more forward to be removed, once the extractor was out. Like I said, I actually removed and re-inserted the spring and its end-pieces from the rear also.

2.)It seems the front removal requires you to "lift" the spring a bit.

All told, this is still good...as the spring does not need to move any more forward than its "installed" position. Using Method 2, when you slide the extractor back in...you slide the extractor's "shaft" on the slide's cut-out surface toward the rear, and with a wiggle-and-lift and a push toward the rear....it "snaps" into place with the "stepped-end" of the spring-end overlapping the "ledge" of the extractor.
 

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Great post IPSC, I had my slide apart today to replace an extractor spring & I like Tanfoglio's way best, but is hard on my thumb to push the extractor in against spring pressure. It hurts so I cut a small piece of business card & folded it over several times to make a thumb pad & pushed it right in. I've had that problem every time & this really helped.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good deal Gene....no way was my post meant to be an "end-all" to this topic...we can add "builds" and ideas to the main post. As long as it ends up helping people as a tutorial.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Brobs:
If this still bothers you.....try these things...
1.) Remove from rear....look into the "channel" it came out of...make sure it is clean...run a Q-tip thru it, etc.
2.) As you put it back in....with the spring-end toward the extractor having the stepped-in piece facing inward ( semi-circular piece facing outward)....then see if it can be pulled from the front. If not, my recollection is fuzzy too if I can do it...but I seem to recall you may need to "lift" the spring-end away from the pistol to allow further forward motion.
 

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that makes sense..

i didn't try it too hard. i was just surprised when i removed the extractor and the plunger wouldn't come out that end.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here is *great* cross-post from the Browning guys on "RimfireCentral" web group....talking about removing an extractor from a Browning 22LR pistol. The parallels are very close to the Walther....notice the extractor design and the spring end-piece that fits on the rear edge of the extractor, just like the Walther. And the photo showing the end piece rotated correctly with the "flat" facing inward toward the pistol, as this flat piece will "cover" the end of the extractor and keep it in place---->

Removing and Replacing the Extractor - RimfireCentral.com Forums
 
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