[K.yantosh85]

Howdy yall. Has anyone else had any issue with the Taylor Freelance magwell on their Q5 SF? Mine has a little play in it and was told to send it back and replace with a "X" version magwell to where I must drill the hole for the rolling pin. Just curious plz.

 

[Liggett]

I switch mine back and forth between IDPA CO (magwell) and USPSA CO (no magwell). I use some electrical tape around the front of the grip and back 2/3's of the grip. 2 or 3 layers. It's a PIA with all the switching I do, but it works to stop the rattle. I just cut off the excess each time with a single edge razor blade, and you can't see it.

 

[K.yantosh85]

That doesn't sound like the best fix on a $1,500 firearm. Plus does it not leave a sticky residue on the grip?

 

[Liggett]

I don't think it's the firearm. I think it's the magwell that was developed to fit the poly frame.
And the sticky residue from the electrical tape is easy to remove when you remove the magwell. When the magwell is on, after cutting the excess tape off there isn't any residue left. The tape isn't visible with the magwell in place.

 

[K.yantosh85]

Oh ya I completely agree, the issue is with the Magwell. I'm just very unsure of having to put tape on an expensive gun

 

[imaoldfart]

To heck with the tape. I'd use a little JB-Weld on the aluminum magwell flare. First, I coat the pistol frame/magwell with some a lubricant....I like pam cooking spray or vaseline....just a thin coat, wipe off any excess. Epoxy won't stick to an oily surface, or at least that's been my experience. Use masking tape to tape off the magwell flare, mix up some JB-Weld, slather on a little around the mating surface and install the flare. Carefully wipe off any excess that may be oozing out....let it start to set up until its like modeling clay or a little harder, then use an exacto knife to carefully do any additional cleanup, then let er' finish curing.

Should be a 'form fit' now and still removable.

If you don't want to do it, send it to me....I'll do it.

Or, you can do it the easy way and use the tape method.....nothing wrong with that.

 

[K.yantosh85]

That is such a great idea. Dont think I'm handy enough to pull that off tho

 

[Liggett]

I needed to do the USPSA-IDPA switch because I've got a level 4 IDPA match this weekend.
imaoldfart has the best idea. BUT, I just did the switchover yesterday using the tape method. You only need 2 layers of tape 2/3 around the front of the grip. Cut off the excess after the magwell is roll pined in place. No residue, it's just electrical tape. It doesn't show unless someone does a "white glove" inspection.
I'm only taking the SF as a "backup" gun. it did really well last weekend in USPSA CO, but the weekend before in IDPA, I missed the slide release during an emergency slide lock reload. That cost me 30 PD and convinced me that it/I am not ready to use it in a Level 4 IDPA match. No "slide lock" reloads in USPSA but quite common in IDPA. I'm shooting my RDS equipped 1911 this weekend since that's the gun my muscles "remember".
Sometime after this weekend, I'm going to try out imaoldfarts JB Weld option because that makes the most sense for a permanent solution. I think you'll have to rough up the inside of the magwell first (just that tiny part where the tape was) before cleaning it with alcohol. Just to be sure it bonds. It's only going to be the thickness of 2 layers of masking tape! I MAY also get out the Dremel before I take it off this time and do a little "blending" of the frame to magwell first. It ain't perfect.

 

[K.yantosh85]

Thanks for the ideas. If you dont mind commenting again with your end result and any tips on doing Imanoldfart's procedure plz

 

[K.yantosh85]

So I recieved the Taylor Freelance "x version" magwell for my Match SF. And even with making the fine tune adjustments it fit perfect for a bit. Then after a bit of use the magwell started to wiggle again. Not happy with the TF Magwell at all.

 

[Liggett]

well. it's not the end of the world. I'm sure Robin will take it back again if you're still not happy. If that's the only aftermarket issue you ever have with a 1500 dollar firearm, (and I don't think it's walthers problem) I'd count yourself lucky.