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Discussion Starter #1
I found a site that has stainless steel guide rods for sale. Anyone have one? I have checked Walther's website, and theirs are sold out. I purchased one of these for both of my PPQ's (9mm and 45 ACP). I'll post when I receive them. Here's the link:https://ssguiderods.com/
 

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I have one. Never got around to using it. Long story.

Willing to sell it if anyone needs it. But need to check to make sure I have it.
 

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I run a BT guide rod in my Q45 EDC with no issues and have Alan's SprinCo Guide Rods in my Navy Q and P99 EDCs.

I never suggest swapping out guide rods or anything except the sights until you have run at least 500 or so rounds through your weapon unless you have a very specific need.

To answer your question LB there are a number of members who have swapped out the OEM guide rod for a steel one with no issue.

I'm not familiar with this company, maybe others here are.
 

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I had one that I ran in my Q5, purchased from "Stainless Steel Guide Rods". After about a thousand rounds, I noticed the end of the rod that contacted the barrel lug was peening over. I called the company, they sent me a new one and had me return the old one on their dime. The new one started doing it too, so I gave up and threw it away before it could damage my barrel lug. I now run the factory one and I've never had one give me any problems, but I noticed the brass started throwing a few feet further away after about 6-7000 rounds, so I replaced it. This is with factory ammo.
Walther told me it's almost unheard of for them to break, but I carry a spare anyway.
 

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I have an SS guide rod from that company in my PPX forty. I haven't had any issues with it but I don't shoot that gun much at this point. I have BT guide rods in my PPQ M1, P99, P99c and PPS M2. They all run just fine without issue. I keep my factory guide rods as my backups.
 

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I run the BT's in my PPS's, Classic and Gen 2. Based on my experience with them in those guns, I would not hesitate to use one in my PPQ.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So is there a difference between this one and the Tungsten one offered by Walther?
 

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So is there a difference between this one and the Tungsten one offered by Walther?
The SS guiderod is steel and uses a tiny screw to retain the spring. They use a drop of 'red' loc-tite on the screw, making it extremely difficult to remove the screw. When I order one of these, I call the company and order directly from them, specifying they do not use any loc-tite on the screw. THIS allows me to use my handi dandy home made recoil spring compressor to compress the spring on the rod and remove the screw. Then I can use the recoil spring of my choice.

The Walther Tungsten guide rod is heavier and I have no idea how the spring is retained. Meaning I don't know if changing the spring is possible or not.
 

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I had one that I ran in my Q5, purchased from "Stainless Steel Guide Rods". After about a thousand rounds, I noticed the end of the rod that contacted the barrel lug was peening over. I called the company, they sent me a new one and had me return the old one on their dime. The new one started doing it too, so I gave up and threw it away before it could damage my barrel lug. I now run the factory one and I've never had one give me any problems, but I noticed the brass started throwing a few feet further away after about 6-7000 rounds, so I replaced it. This is with factory ammo.
Walther told me it's almost unheard of for them to break, but I carry a spare anyway.
The rear of the recoil spring assembly rests on the barrel lug only when the slide is off the frame. When reassembled, the rear of the RSA rests in the cylindrical recess at the front of the locking block, and does not contact the barrel lug at all.

Did the peening occur around the circumference of the RSA's rear disc?
 

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The rear of the recoil spring assembly rests on the barrel lug only when the slide is off the frame. When reassembled, the rear of the RSA rests in the cylindrical recess at the front of the locking block, and does not contact the barrel lug at all.

Did the peening occur around the circumference of the RSA's rear disc?
Yes, if I understand you correctly. It was around the circumference of the head of the rod, the flat surface. I wish I'd taken a picture of it, before I threw it out. The factory plastic ones work perfectly.
 

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The SS guiderod is steel and uses a tiny screw to retain the spring. They use a drop of 'red' loc-tite on the screw, making it extremely difficult to remove the screw. When I order one of these, I call the company and order directly from them, specifying they do not use any loc-tite on the screw. THIS allows me to use my handi dandy home made recoil spring compressor to compress the spring on the rod and remove the screw. Then I can use the recoil spring of my choice.

The Walther Tungsten guide rod is heavier and I have no idea how the spring is retained. Meaning I don't know if changing the spring is possible or not.

+1


I got one with the red Loc-tite. A good quality, new condition allen wrench removed the screw without stripping the head.
Ordered a few Wilson Combat Commander springs (18#, 20#, 22#). With the 22# installed, the Q45 stopped the excessive "brass slinging". Brass drops ~2' away now.
 

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SS Guide Rods

I have one installed in my PPQ M2 4 inch. I have had no problems after well over 500 rounds, maybe 1,000. But that pistol has never ever missed a beat anyway regardless of ammo type or conditions.

On the other hand there is no discernible difference between the SS guide rod and the stock one. Its a nice way to spend money on your gun if you want to do that. Better idea is to buy better sights. The Trijicon HD Night Sights are great. Big improvement for me.
 

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I considered that rod before going the SS route, it's not produced for the PPQ 45.
 

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I have been using the Tungsten Rod from Walthers PPQ 5" 9mm for about 2 years with no troubles, I would guess approxx 3500 rounds, all still good
 
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