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I have a s&w ppks and was wondering if anyone has smooth out the sharpe edges on their own guns or sent them to any gunsmiths???
some pics and how to would be nice
Also Thanks for having me on your form
This is my first post:)
 

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I took it upon myself to smooth mine out, but it was used when I bought it and I'm not a stickler for looks. Rounded off the base of the trigger guard where it meets the grip, it was really digging into the top of my middle finger/knuckle when using a two-handed grip. Also contoured the underside of the beaver tail at the outside edges. The thing is downright comfy now and can go 150+ rds no problem. I haven't taken the time to buff the file marks out as I might not be done yet. If I can figure out how to post a picture I'll put one up. To me it was worth the effort, but if you like a quality job, you should probably take it to someone.
 

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I've been thinking about doing that. The beavertail hits me right on the edge of my thumb-knuckle and a box or two through it rubs a little bloody spot.

My gun is blued. Are there solutions I could reblue with and not notice a difference or should I take it to a smith?

On the subject of bluing, does anyone else's S&W blued gun look a lot more black than blue? Is that just because it's new and fresh? I've never owned a brand new blued gun.
 

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Smoothing off the edges with a dowel wrapped in 400 grit wet/dry is easy as pie on a stainless pistol, but another matter on a blued model.

A sneaky person would wait until the blue wore off around the edges of the beavertail, then carefully attack the sharp edges with wet/dry, then prehaps a dab of cold blue just to mute the shine. Properly done the results would be nearly invisable.

I have not yet closely examined the new blue PPK's. The ones I have handled feature a very dull, black finish. It doesn't look like conventional blue to me .... it may be the same finish as the M&P autos. Until I was sure it was conventional bluing I would not touch it, as it may not be easily "touched up".
 

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I'm perfectly comfortable witht he work and repolishing but the refinishing I have no clue about. Maybe I'll find a good gunsmith (maybe...I'm in LA) and ask some questions.
 

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If you are going to polish off the sharp edges of the grip (thus doing what those ex-dairy workers at S&W's plant in Maine should have done in the first place) then have the frame (just the frame) professionally reblued. Cold blue leaves such a characteristic stink --smells like rotten egg-- that you have to wash your hands after handling the gun.

M
 

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Another disadvantage to the cold-blue process, even beyond the oft-times uneven and streaky finish it leaves behind, is that it sometimes invites rust and eventually pitting if left unanswered and unchecked. This is a phenomonon that creeps up on unsuspecting gunowners; dealers will tell you that they can spot -- as well as smell -- a gun that has gone through the cold-blue process a display counter away. Unless you are covering the top of a removed/returned screw head, cold blue is best avoided.
 

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Sorry,

I guess I implied above that cold blue was okay to use. What I meant was a tiny dab just to cut down the brightness of a newly polished area.

Cold Blues (unless you are talking fancy rust bluing) should be avoided like the plague, especially on large areas. They are adequate for tiny touch ups - but very destructive for anything else. I second all the negative comments about cold blue posted above.
 

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I have a s&w ppks and was wondering if anyone has smooth out the sharpe edges on their own guns or sent them to any gunsmiths???
some pics and how to would be nice
Also Thanks for having me on your form
This is my first post:)
Got ya beat...this is my second post... ;)

Cylinder & Slide does a carry package to round off the sharp corners for about $85 on stainless and about $100 more for a blued gun. Their work is the best in the business but plan on a 6 to 8 week wait. Here's a link to an article on their work...with pictures... :)

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/combathandgun.shtml

Milspec
 
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