I'd make a terrible ship's captain. I'd be having the crew chip and repaint one end of the ship then start back over again! Rust??? NEVER!!!! Hahahaha 
Slide coating is gone and recoil rod is bent after one ultrasonic cleaning. Please advise.
Hi folks, asking your help/suggestions here. Thanks in advance.
I got my PDP F series new but dirty, so I used CLP for a basic cleaning first. However that helped very little (My Initial Post). Fellow forum viewers suggested an ultrasonic cleaner. I tried that first with my other pistols and it worked fine (no damages to coating or rods). I then used it with the PDP F series (same method, half water & half simple green, for 5 minutes under 60 degree Celsius). The outlook is horrendous (pictures attached) when it was done!
The slide coating is deteriorated badly and the recoil rod is bent (two most obvious defects I can tell immediately). I contacted the Walther for the issues and they only suggested me to purchase a new rod/spring and re-coat the cerakote with an outside shop myself, no warranty replacement was offered.
I am disappointed with the quality of pistol and Walther's warranty. Am I expecting too much? What else can I do to improve my situation while saving additional expenses? I have not yet shot the gun ever since I got it from the FFL. Is it safe to use this pistol as its current condition (especially the bent recoil rod)?
Again, thanks in advance.
/CP
I got my PDP F series new but dirty, so I used CLP for a basic cleaning first. However that helped very little (My Initial Post). Fellow forum viewers suggested an ultrasonic cleaner. I tried that first with my other pistols and it worked fine (no damages to coating or rods). I then used it with the PDP F series (same method, half water & half simple green, for 5 minutes under 60 degree Celsius). The outlook is horrendous (pictures attached) when it was done!
The slide coating is deteriorated badly and the recoil rod is bent (two most obvious defects I can tell immediately). I contacted the Walther for the issues and they only suggested me to purchase a new rod/spring and re-coat the cerakote with an outside shop myself, no warranty replacement was offered.
I am disappointed with the quality of pistol and Walther's warranty. Am I expecting too much? What else can I do to improve my situation while saving additional expenses? I have not yet shot the gun ever since I got it from the FFL. Is it safe to use this pistol as its current condition (especially the bent recoil rod)?
Again, thanks in advance.
/CP
Attachments
-
1.6 MB Views: 15 -
2.1 MB Views: 8 -
1.8 MB Views: 3 -
1.8 MB Views: 12 -
1.1 MB Views: 2 -
1.5 MB Views: 9 -
1.6 MB Views: 5 -
1.1 MB Views: 25 -
1.6 MB Views: 6 -
2.4 MB Views: 3
61 - 75 of 75 Posts
Seldom do I side with a manufacture but this time I do. Its not Walther's fault that a harsh way of cleaning it destroyed the finish or the plasticky follower. Lets face facts plasticky parts are not made of steel and require extra care when cleaning them. There are many chemicals and solvents that will destroy soft plasticky parts.Hi folks, asking your help/suggestions here. Thanks in advance.
I got my PDP F series new but dirty, so I used CLP for a basic cleaning first. However that helped very little (My Initial Post). Fellow forum viewers suggested an ultrasonic cleaner. I tried that first with my other pistols and it worked fine (no damages to coating or rods). I then used it with the PDP F series (same method, half water & half simple green, for 5 minutes under 60 degree Celsius). The outlook is horrendous (pictures attached) when it was done!
The slide coating is deteriorated badly and the recoil rod is bent (two most obvious defects I can tell immediately). I contacted the Walther for the issues and they only suggested me to purchase a new rod/spring and re-coat the cerakote with an outside shop myself, no warranty replacement was offered.
I am disappointed with the quality of pistol and Walther's warranty. Am I expecting too much? What else can I do to improve my situation while saving additional expenses? I have not yet shot the gun ever since I got it from the FFL. Is it safe to use this pistol as its current condition (especially the bent recoil rod)?
Again, thanks in advance.
/CP
I use a simple squirt bottle filled with kerosene to clean off burnt powder residue. Some people add in a little transmission fluid as well. I have cleaned many a plasticky gun with a mixture of kerosene and transmission fluid and a toothbrush and they suffered no damage.
On one of my guns, a CZ 75, I did throw the plasticky follower right into the trash and buy a custom stainless steel follower but on my Glocks and Walther plasticky guns the followers are all original plasticky ones.
I still use Hoppe's No. 9 for cleaning out leading and powder residue and carbon left in the barrel of my guns. Its worked for me since 1962.
I have tried Break Free CLP as a cleaner and it did nothing as far as its being a good cleaning agent although you cannot beat it for lubrication of a firearm, even the U.S. military uses it. CLP seems to stay on a firearm long after most other oils evaporate.
And I would never use an sonic cleaner even on any of the expensive high quality collector item original all metal Walthers such as the PP series or P38 or P5 or P88.
I just don’t get it I suppose. Why are guys trying to get these guns so clean you can eat off them? I mean are you guys shooting super corrosive ammo or what? Kerosene and transmission fluid to clean a handgun just seems a little over the top to me. People are trying to get these guns cleaner than they are when they are first assembled in the factory. I get the lead fouling in the barrel removal, but kerosene and transmission fluid to do basic cleaning is about as ocd as I’ve seen. That’s right up there with ultrasonic cleaning in my opinion. Different strokes for different folks I guess. I just took my Glock 23 gen 3 out yesterday and put 50 rounds through it since I haven’t shot it in a while and keep it stored in my upstairs bathroom staged as a defensive gun. It has over 15k rounds through it with just basic field strip cleaning and lubrication with a guide rod I replaced like 5 years ago. It still works as good as the day I bought it and I’ve never gave it an ultrasonic bath or poured kerosene and transmission fluid in it. I’m not trying to come across as a jerk or anything, I’m just confused as to why you guys want your guns so clean they look like a museum piece.I have cleaned many a plasticky gun with a mixture of kerosene and transmission fluid and a toothbrush and they suffered no damage.
I want to talk about this statement a little.I got my PDP F series new but dirty, so I used CLP for a basic cleaning first. However that helped very little.
What do you mean by this?
It's a brand new gun that had been test fired. I'd be surprised if Walther fired more than a few rounds through the gun. A mag full at most.
How dirty could it have been?
Something might be out of proportion in regards to your expectations of gun cleanliness.
It's something to think about.
I'm sure you feel bad enough already and you've been great about taking some constructive criticism from the forum but there might be a lesson here beyond being careful with ultrasonic cleaners.
Regards
deleted bc not helpful. didn’t realize how old this post is. everything has already been said. I am sorry about your pistol OP. Like someone said its a tool, your workhorse carry gun perhaps that would get holster wear anyways. as long as she functions well.
You mean 'guide rod,' not 'follower,' I believe. 👍😉Seldom do I side with a manufacture but this time I do. Its not Walther's fault that a harsh way of cleaning it destroyed the finish or the plasticky follower. Lets face facts plasticky parts are not made of steel and require extra care when cleaning them. There are many chemicals and solvents that will destroy soft plasticky parts.
I use a simple squirt bottle filled with kerosene to clean off burnt powder residue. Some people add in a little transmission fluid as well. I have cleaned many a plasticky gun with a mixture of kerosene and transmission fluid and a toothbrush and they suffered no damage.
On one of my guns, a CZ 75, I did throw the plasticky follower right into the trash and buy a custom stainless steel follower but on my Glocks and Walther plasticky guns the followers are all original plasticky ones.
I still use Hoppe's No. 9 for cleaning out leading and powder residue and carbon left in the barrel of my guns. Its worked for me since 1962.
I have tried Break Free CLP as a cleaner and it did nothing as far as its being a good cleaning agent although you cannot beat it for lubrication of a firearm, even the U.S. military uses it. CLP seems to stay on a firearm long after most other oils evaporate.
And I would never use an sonic cleaner even on any of the expensive high quality collector item original all metal Walthers such as the PP series or P38 or P5 or P88.
I use kerosene and transmission fluid because its low in price and does and excellent job of getting the burnt powder out of the inside of the action.I just don’t get it I suppose. Why are guys trying to get these guns so clean you can eat off them? I mean are you guys shooting super corrosive ammo or what? Kerosene and transmission fluid to clean a handgun just seems a little over the top to me. People are trying to get these guns cleaner than they are when they are first assembled in the factory. I get the lead fouling in the barrel removal, but kerosene and transmission fluid to do basic cleaning is about as ocd as I’ve seen. That’s right up there with ultrasonic cleaning in my opinion. Different strokes for different folks I guess. I just took my Glock 23 gen 3 out yesterday and put 50 rounds through it since I haven’t shot it in a while and keep it stored in my upstairs bathroom staged as a defensive gun. It has over 15k rounds through it with just basic field strip cleaning and lubrication with a guide rod I replaced like 5 years ago. It still works as good as the day I bought it and I’ve never gave it an ultrasonic bath or poured kerosene and transmission fluid in it. I’m not trying to come across as a jerk or anything, I’m just confused as to why you guys want your guns so clean they look like a museum piece.
I might also like to add that the more fouling that you let accumulate in the barrel the harder it is to get it out when you clean it. I have seen even a minimum amount of fouling cause problems in many guns. This is very critical in the glock because the striker channel is open and lets in dirt and debris.
Not saying I don’t believe you but this is not my experience with the dozens of firearms I’ve owned over the last 20 years. The only gun I’ve ever had fouling issues with is my ruger sr45 when gun oil was in the striker channel and crud built up causing occasional light primer strikes. This was my fault as I put way to much oil on the slide and put a light coat of oil on the striker assembly(a big no no). Lesson learned there. The other dozens of guns I’ve had in which some reaching over 10k and 15k rounds have never had a problem. I clean the barrel out with hoppes 9 bore cleaner every once in a while and accuracy and function stays the same. Hey if that’s the regimen you follow and it works for you then by all means go for it. In my experience what I do works for me. Thanks for sharing I though, if I ever get into a pinch to do a deep cleaning I’ve learned another option.I have seen even a minimum amount of fouling cause problems in many guns.
Yeah, it is a costly lesson ($ damage unknown since I have no $ to yet fixing it). I likely had set up a non-realistic expectation in the beginning (read This question I originally had). That caused me rushing into the ultrasonic cleaning efforts. Thanks anyway.I want to talk about this statement a little.
What do you mean by this?
It's a brand new gun that had been test fired. I'd be surprised if Walther fired more than a few rounds through the gun. A mag full at most.
How dirty could it have been?
Something might be out of proportion in regards to your expectations of gun cleanliness.
It's something to think about.
I'm sure you feel bad enough already and you've been great about taking some constructive criticism from the forum but there might be a lesson here beyond being careful with ultrasonic cleaners.
Regards
Yes. I remember the thread.Yeah, it is a costly lesson ($ damage unknown since I have no $ to yet fixing it). I likely had set up a non-realistic expectation in the beginning (read This question I originally had). That caused me rushing into the ultrasonic cleaning efforts. Thanks anyway.
Please keep in mind this is a discussion forum and you are going to get a lot of different opinions on just about any topic or question you might have.
You still have the responsibility of wading through the opinions given and figuring out what is appropriate for you and what isn't.
When you decide to enact a cleaning regimen that is "non-standard", you don't want to put parts in a solution for the first time, for 5 minutes. 1 minute tops, remove, rinse, evaluate. I'm reminded of an incident at the college where I received my flight training. They also had an aircraft mechanic (A&P) school. They had an engine case that had been put in a cleaner overnight. Mind you, many major parts of light aircraft engines are made of aluminum. The trashed case was saved as a reminder to the students that followed that class, as an extremely expensive lesson in over-cleaning parts. It was pitted beyond all reason and expectations. Sometimes, if a little cleaning is good, a lot of cleaning is better, is a fallacy. An expensive fallacy. (Actually, with firearms, this is true with lubing, too!)
Not sure if this was mentioned or not, don't have time to read all posts and replies, but I took note when you said you were inexperienced. When I got my first Walther, it was my most expensive gun I bought, and was planning on using it as my carry pistol. It was a PPQ M2. I was paranoid about getting that thing clean. I would spend an hour trying to get at every speck of dirt I could find. Now, I spend about 10 minutes giving the frame a quick wipe, running a brush and a few patches through the barrel, and then putting a few drops of oil on the rails and other wear areas. I feel based on your inexperience that you may have felt the need to get your PDP F spotless like I did when I got my PPQ, hence the need for the ultrasonic.Yeah, it is a costly lesson ($ damage unknown since I have no $ to yet fixing it). I likely had set up a non-realistic expectation in the beginning (read This question I originally had). That caused me rushing into the ultrasonic cleaning efforts. Thanks anyway.
Ever look at the label on a bottle of Hoppe's? It's pretty much kerosene.I still use Hoppe's No. 9 for cleaning out leading and powder residue and carbon left in the barrel of my guns. Its worked for me since 1962.
I use it myself. No reason to change what already works.
61 - 75 of 75 Posts
Walther Forums
A forum community dedicated to Walther firearm owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, gunsmithing, troubleshooting, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Recommended Communities
