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You can start this by taking some careful measurements. Gun unloaded. Mag in. How far is it from the rear of the trigger....pick a specific point like the bottom tip or 3/8" up from the bottom. Be consistent. So, how far is it from the rear of the trigger to the front of the grip inside the trigger guard with the trigger fully forward. Next, with the trigger fully pulled to the rear, how far is it from the rear of the trigger to the frame? Next cock the pistol and carefully measure when the striker is released...How far is it from the rear of the trigger to the frame. And finally, pull the trigger and keep it pulled while you cycle the slide to reset the striker. Now let the trigger forward very slowly until you hear the trigger bar click up into the reset position. Same measurement needed.

These are the first things to measure before we look at shortening the trigger pull/reset. M1911

And if you are going to monkey around with it.....get a couple of new strikers, couple of new sears and a couple of trigger bars. Then you will be ready to experiment. Order a new cylinder too.
 

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Here are some concepts. You need to realize I don't have one of these pistols, have never had a striker fired pistol so I'm just guessing. :D

Earlier release. Mark the front of the striker hook with red and the rear of the sear. Assemble and cycle pulling the trigger. What we want to see is how much of the sear and striker hook are engaged. If a lot....shorten the striker hook for an earlier release. Less trigger movement rearward.

The same could be said for the sear....some of the rear height could be removed so the sear drops away from the striker. Always work on the cheaper part first.
All of this could make the pistol very dangerous if not done properly and thoroughly tested...so, I'm just thinking out loud.

The front pivot geometry can't really be changed to give the trigger more or less leverage so that is out.

If you file off the face of the hook on the trigger bar the trigger could reset earlier as long as the top bump doesn't interfere with the cutout on the slide. But, doing this means you will have more distance to move the trigger rearward before the hook engages the cylinder and begins rotating it to release the striker. This is why movement in both directions of the trigger needs to be studied.

If there is plenty of rearward movement left after the striker is released you might file a bit off the right side of the cylinder protrusion where the trigger bar catches. this will allow the trigger bar to jump up earlier but will require the trigger to have to be pulled more to the rear to release the stock sear.

But, a careful study of trigger position, shortening the striker hook and changing the cylinder all in concert might shorten trigger pull and reset. Might. Remember, this is a self defense firearm so you don't want things too tight where a bit of dirt or a bit of wear might keep the parts from functioning....but those are some of the things I would look at if I just had to. I might also add a bit a JB Weld to the trigger guard to stop forward movement of the trigger if I were to be able to significantly shorten reset. I'd leave enough for reliable resetting....every time though. M1911
 

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How would you? Or if you could make the reset more noticeable.
You need to figure out why you can't feel the trigger bar resetting. Does the plunger under the trigger bar make the trigger bar slide against the cylinder at all times so there is no opportunity for the trigger bar to "pop" up into position where it can be heard or felt? Pull the slide and study that trigger bar very carefully as you pull it back and forth with the trigger. M1911
 

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Can the reset on the CCP be customized to be shorter?
I doubt the factory would ... talking suits with law degrees decree I am sure ... and if you did it yourself and shot someone and they found out you modified the trigger you may get sued, even in a good shoot, as that is fodder for the "What if" game. What if your trigger was at SAFE factory specs you may have not shot so quickly and my client may be alive today, did you want to shoot at that point, did you know it was going off while my client was maybe face down, and on and on ... just saying:)

PS: the PPQ has a super short reset ... just saying.
 

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You need to figure out why you can't feel the trigger bar resetting. M1911
I can feel the trigger reset...it's approx. 1/4" before full return. Personally, with the trigger work I had done I see no need to shorten the reset. The pull on our's is smooth and the release is crisp....no drag or grit. I also have a similar condition on my XDs...the reset is also about 1/4" before and everything is very smooth with a much lighter pull weight....about 4.5lb. That's because I had the PRP spring and sear replacement work done.

I understand short resets for competition but under stress and faced with life and death conditions I'm in the camp of....you will never feel anything in the trigger.
 

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I doubt the factory would ... talking suits with law degrees decree I am sure ...
Yes, I could just imagine some young punk assistant DA looking to make a name for himself, getting his hands on a Balistics report from a Self Defense shooting showing extensive internal modifications such as those described above. I'd hate to be on the receiving end of that prosecutorial firestorm.

Also, not to impugn anyone's skills, but how can you guarantee that the modified gun is now inherently safe? I consider myself really good with mechanical devices, but I certainly wouldn't be comfortable accepting the liability that would ensue. How would you know it's absolutely safe to carry. What if it went off - in appendix carry? Assuming one survived, good luck with any lawsuit to recover expenses. Or what if you drop it and it discharges striking an innocent bystander? A family member? A child? ?.........

Yikes:eek:
 

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You got that right these days. NJ wanted to put an old man, collector in prison for having an historical piece, flintlock pistol, dueling pistol if you will, when flintlocks are not even considered as firearms and no serial numbers are required or attached to custom ones at least...
 

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We seem to be straying afield here, folks. Let's get this one back to the original intent and open a new thread in the General Discussion section of you want to talk about gun laws. Thanks.
 

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You weren't paying attention to what you were doing in the first place and or didn't have the knowledge or skills to perform and test your work. Thousands of gunsmiths make their living fine tuning firearms everyday. This is just a theoretical discussion to begin with and since a number of firearms have a variety of aftermarket parts specifically dealing with improving trigger pull for a variety of reasons....this question will be inevitably asked about the CCP. You can what if anything to death..reloading, hollow points vs MFJ, bigger turbo, bigger tires. Always follow safe gun handing practices. There are plenty of stock firearms that aren't safe and the owner hasn't done enough shooting or any shooting to know it. M1911
 
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