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They sell a pad on ebay to remove scratches on a watch. I use it on my 32PPK/S and
it works wonders on the finish.
 

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I use those better quality fingernail sticks as MGMike recommended. You will have much better control of what you are polishing and what you are not and not risk rounding any edges. Get some, they aren't expensive, come in coarse to very, very fine and have a number of uses....including fingernails. At grocery stores and drug stores. M1911
 

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Do you think an abrasive airbrush like this with the proper media could be used to re-do the matte bead blast on the top of stainless Ranger slides?

 

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Has anyone tried to remove the Smith&Wesson,Houlton,Me,USA off their stainless steel slides?This is just an idea I have.Any comments?
 

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scratches on stainless steel

There's tons of stuff out there to make the gun look new..I wrote earlier
about a pad I bought on ebay that takes scratches out of watches.
I use it a lot on my ppk/s stainless 32

Mike
 

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There's tons of stuff out there to make the gun look new..I wrote earlier
about a pad I bought on ebay that takes scratches out of watches.
I use it a lot on my ppk/s stainless 32

Mike

The specific question is the bead blasted areas. General consensus seems to be that the only way to repair bead blast is to re-bead blast.

My kydex holster, which I otherwise love, rubs these areas shiny. I'm wondering if a matte finish could be repaired with an abrasive airbrush.
 

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I'm wondering if a matte finish could be repaired with an abrasive airbrush.
I think I would get a piece of stainless steel and practice before launching into the finish on your slide. I think your are correct though, there is no sanding method I'm familiar with that will duplicate a matt, particle blasted finish. Ask the people where you purchase your blasting media what they think might duplicate the look. M1911
 

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I actually spent the past couple of days working on my S&W PPK/S-1 and I figured that I'd share my results...

  • Emery boards work fine for flat surfaces, but are absolutely terrible and cause much more harm than good on any rounded surface such as the backstrap.
  • For the best all around results, use a 3M Scotchbright Ultra-Fine (Gray) Pad.
  • For light surface scratches, simply place the 3M Pad on the affected area and run it back and forth with the grain of the metal without applying any pressure.
  • For heavy scratches, apply pressure, but not so much that you're pressing/grinding it into the surface.
  • Every 15-20 strokes/passes, use a paper towel or cotton cloth to wipe away any debris in order to maintain visibility of the surface and prevent further scratches from forming.
  • Be methodical and check your work surface periodically to make sure you aren't overdoing it. (Some scratches come out much easier than expected.)
  • The end result of your work will most likely resemble what is commonly referred to as a "brushed" finish, but if you polish it afterwards with a light coating of lube and a microfiber cloth, you can get something a bit more glossy akin to a "satin" finish as well.
  • Surprisingly, the laser etching on S&W manufactured PPKs holds up remarkably well. Initially I feared that it would come right off, but appears to be completely unaffected by my work.
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