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S&W didn't drop proof the pistols till 1945 . Till then was a chance. I learned this as I bought a old S&W . Its serial number was strange . When I checked with S&W they told me that showed first year of hammer block . Was made 1945 . My oldest S&W is 1880 I belive it will fire if hammer hit .
Just revisiting this sticky, it bears mentioning that more current S&W production is quite drop safe. I've personally examined two Smith J-frames which had been dropped on the hammer spur hard enough to break it off. Neither fired. I removed the hammer on at least one of them, and ground off/refinished the remainder. IIRC, I ground off the single action sear as well.
Moon
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Also worth bearing in mind: incorrect hammer rebound function in Walther PP-series and P.38 pistols is not uncommon. Recently I ran across an old note from 30-plus years ago, that gunsmith inspection of about 4400 WWII surplus P.38s (mostly Mauser-made) revealed that fully 25% of them had lost (or never had) correct rebound function. Earlier, in the 1970s, there were sufficient complaints about brand-new PP-series pistols with defective rebound --several hundred guns were involved-- that it became the subject of animated discussion between Ulm and Alexandria, Virginia. Interarms' director of engineering finally made drawings and sent them to Germany to illustrate the incorrect and correct profiles of the hammer strut --both the problem and the solution.

M
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
... I've personally examined two Smith J-frames which had been dropped on the hammer spur hard enough to break it off. Neither fired. ...
If it breaks at the spur, even the older, pre-1945 configuration is pretty safe. A "shoe" on the rebound slide blocks the hammer from pivoting by chocking its lower end. The only danger is if the hammer fractures higher up. This was the reason for the later hammer block, a floating piece that looks like a music note, attached to the rebound slide. It blocks the hammer's path to the firing pin until the trigger is pulled. Even if the hammer breaks internally, it usually won't fire.

M
 

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that it became the subject of animated discussion between Ulm and Alexandria, Virginia. Interarms' director of engineering finally made drawings and sent them to Germany to illustrate the incorrect and correct profiles of the hammer strut --both the problem and the solution.

M
hmmmmmm, I think I've got some notes about this, that was given to me years ago in Ulm ..... question is, can I find them.... :eek:
 

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Turning the manual safety ON on a Walther PP-series pistol does three things:

1) If the hammer is cocked, it drops the hammer to the decocked position which then requires a double-action pull, or manually re-cocking the hammer to fire;

2) The safety drum rotates around to positively lock the round knuckle on the firing pin, which prevents the firing pin from moving, and

3) Shoulders on the safety drum are rotated around to shield the rear tip of the firing pin from any contact from the hammer. This provides additional protection against a possible AD arising from a fracture of the locked firing pin or of the safety drum itself -- which occasionally happened with wartime P38s.

M

Is (2) and (3) true for all PPK's - ZM, Ulm, S&W ?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Is (2) and (3) true for all PPK's - ZM, Ulm, S&W ?
Yes, assuming all the parts are present and correctly functioning, the mechanical action is the same for all of them, except that in the Z-M and early Ulm, the knuckle on the firing pin referenced in (2) is rectangular rather than round.

M
 
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