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I have a PPS Classic that is about 3 years old that I use for EDC. On a very hot day this past summer sweat got into the gun. Only a couple of days passed before I noticed, but rust had already started. There were only a couple of light surface spots on the slide but the internals were pretty bad. I disassembled, cleaned the rust the best I could, then used Frog Lube (good results in the past). I put the pistol in my dry climate controlled safe and started carrying a different gun. Imagine how upset I was last week when I took all my guns out to wipe them down and discovered that my PPS now has cancer. I can"t believe how much it has rusted. I'm fanatical about my weapons. I try to keep them all looking new for as long as I can. I have guns that are 50 years old and still don't have a speck of rust so I assure you I know how to care for them. I talked to Walther Customer Service on the phone and while they did replace a few pins and springs, they wouldn't do anything about the rust on the metal firing block. They didn't even want me send it to them to have a look.

Has anyone else had a similar problem with rust. I truly can't believe there isn't a problem with the factory coating that allowed it to rust so quickly and extensively. Any suggestions on how to proceed would be appreciated.
 

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The "metal firing block" is a little unclear. Can you take a photo?

Walther says it's pistols are finished with Tennifer/Melonite/Carbo-Nitriding (all different names for the same process). This is really a very specific hardening process which is highly resistent to rust and damage. The process leaves the metal blackened, and the exact tone (matte to shiney) is controlled by the surface finish of the metal before the process is done. Some companies add a purely cosmetic coating, which some people confuse as "the finish."

This process cannot be done to small, thin, weak, or non-ferrous parts, such as springs, pins, ejectors, etc.

The Melonite finish is not rust-proof, but is very rust resistent. If treated parts have rusted, and it's as bad as you describe, there may be an argument that your pistol's part didn't get finished properly. There are a couple ways to tell if it is a factory defect or if it is neglect. (Please don't mis-interpret any conotation of criticism. I'm not saying you beat your child. You may just not have noticed they peed their diaper, so now it has a rash. ;) Something plenty of good mommies and daddies deal with every day.)

If the factory absolutely won't consider even looking at it to see if it's a defect, your best option is to have the whole pistol stripped, soak all robust metal parts in Evapo-rust, coat them in grease, and send them off for re-finishing. (I'd recommend Robar NP3.)
 

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I have a PPS Classic that is about 3 years old that I use for EDC. On a very hot day this past summer sweat got into the gun. Only a couple of days passed before I noticed, but rust had already started. ...
It's that cheap Spanish steel.

M
 

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Pictures? Rust always looks worse than the actual amt of metal damage. Two days is a pretty short time for a clean and lubed firearm to rust. I expect sweat was getting in there for a longer period of time or you have some particularly powerful corrosive sweat. I carry every day and it is hot and humid here in the summer. I'm sure some of my leather holsters are well salted. The only rust I ever see is the ends of the roll pins. I oil and clean them but that is it. It would take a good bit of sweat to get inside the pistol.....not that around here you don't really sweat quite a bit if you are out working in the heat all day.

Clean it, lube it....bet it will function fine and you will either have to protect it from sweat better in the future or clean more often. 1917
 

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I carry my PPS pretty often in the AZ summer and I only ever see rust around the rear sight (trijicon). Never had any internally. I have a good amount of holster wear with silver showing through the finish and no rust. You must have really sweat a lot!

Im not a fan of frog lube as rust prevention. Ive coated ARs with the stuff only to find rusted barrels and pins when I pulled them back out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd like to thank all for the replies. I do sweat a lot when it is in the upper 90's and the humidity is super high. I suspect I do have some really corrosive sweat also. However, what I reported is true. I'm 60 yrs old and no rookie when it comes to taking care of guns and have never had this happen before. I've used frog lube in the past with good results but will be looking for another product to wipe down my guns. Anybody ever used a product called "Super Lube"? It is in a grey and red spray can and is hard to find. John Deere stores are the only place I've seen it. I had tools in storage for three years in a non climate controlled area that had been wiped down with this stuff and not one speck of rust appeared after all that time. I'm going to try that on my guns. Not to lube because I'm afraid it would gum up the works but just to coat for rust protection. As to Walther Customer service... I called them and they sent me a few replacement pins and springs that were really rusty but when I went to reassemble, I couldn't get the takedown slide back in place. I suspect I bent the brass looking spring causing this problem so I called Walther again. The young man I talked to this time actually wants me to send the gun in to them, so that's what I'm going to do. I don't think they will do anything about the rust but at least they can go through it and make sure everything is in order so I can have my every day carry gun back. Carry guns take a beating anyway so I'll just have to get over the appearance and I'll be happy enough if it is reliable for a carry gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Robar NP3 is the answer! My HK P2000sk looks fantastic after 6 years of carry.
I've read about the Robar NP3 but although I paid pretty good for this pistol when purchased, at today's prices I could buy a new one for the cost of having that applied. I have an HK P30 that I could see having the NP3 applied to but it appears to be of such quality I don't think (hope) I will have rust problems with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The "metal firing block" is a little unclear. Can you take a photo?

Walther says it's pistols are finished with Tennifer/Melonite/Carbo-Nitriding (all different names for the same process). This is really a very specific hardening process which is highly resistent to rust and damage. The process leaves the metal blackened, and the exact tone (matte to shiney) is controlled by the surface finish of the metal before the process is done. Some companies add a purely cosmetic coating, which some people confuse as "the finish."

This process cannot be done to small, thin, weak, or non-ferrous parts, such as springs, pins, ejectors, etc.

The Melonite finish is not rust-proof, but is very rust resistent. If treated parts have rusted, and it's as bad as you describe, there may be an argument that your pistol's part didn't get finished properly. There are a couple ways to tell if it is a factory defect or if it is neglect. (Please don't mis-interpret any conotation of criticism. I'm not saying you beat your child. You may just not have noticed they peed their diaper, so now it has a rash. ;) Something plenty of good mommies and daddies deal with every day.)

If the factory absolutely won't consider even looking at it to see if it's a defect, your best option is to have the whole pistol stripped, soak all robust metal parts in Evapo-rust, coat them in grease, and send them off for re-finishing. (I'd recommend Robar NP3.)
I was referring to the metal housing inside the polymer frame. After buffing the rust off with a dremmel, there is major pitting on the outside of it where it contacts the polymer frame but only a couple of spots on the inside. I don't think it will affect the operation of the gun.
 

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I carry my PPS pretty often in the AZ summer and I only ever see rust around the rear sight (trijicon). Never had any internally. I have a good amount of holster wear with silver showing through the finish and no rust. You must have really sweat a lot!

Im not a fan of frog lube as rust prevention. Ive coated ARs with the stuff only to find rusted barrels and pins when I pulled them back out.
I sweat profusely. I lived in Arizona. I never sweated. LOL!
 
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