[crzteacher]

Feel like a newbie for asking this but I never ran into this. I've never changed my hammer spring on my Interarms but a friend of mine bought one and he wants to replace the hammer spring, firing pin spring, and recoil spring for fresh ones and to make sure everything is safe. (Factory spec spring weights)

What is the best method for removing his hammer spring? There's no hole for putting a wire through, or other ways to maintain pressure on the spring to make this easy. Do I need to make a jig for doing this? Mini spring-compressor? This is a new one on me. Short of taking it apart, I don't see an easy way to do this.

Looked here and elsewhere and really couldn't find the answer. Apologies if I missed it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[halfmoonclip]

Continue pursuing this if you like, but for your buddy (and as a general thing), if it ain't broke, there's no purpose in fixing it.
Springs have a long halflife. Run it and see what happens.
Moon

 

[mike9905]

Run 100 rounds through it. If it works leave the springs alone. I don't understand owners of "new to them" old guns who want to replace parts before discerning a problem.

 

[crzteacher]

I agree. I told him the only tool he needed was a grip strengthener.

They must have used a forked bar if repairing or took it completely down. Only thing I can think of.

 

[MGMike]

Just invert the pistol and push down on the hammer spring retaining plate, compressing the hammer spring, then lift the plate out of its slot in the frame.

M

 

[crzteacher]

No retaining clip. The hammer strut and spring rest on a part of the frame that sticks out as a small ledge.

His DA is definitely higher than mine. Can't measure on my Lyman because it's over the max.

 

[MGMike]

You threw me off when you said "older". I mistakenly assumed it was an Interarms import with a forged frame not a Ranger gun with investment-cast frame.

But the principle is the same. With the hammer uncocked, grasp the spring and compress it toward the hammer until the bottom coil of the spring clears its recessed seat in the retaining lug, then swing the spring and strut together out to the rear.

M

 

[crzteacher]

I'll try that tonight but grasp it how - any best methods? Certainly couldn't do it by hand when we looked at it. He even started to use a screwdriver but couldn't get it held down enough and move it at the same time. Thoughts? Need something like a split tip screwdriver or very, very small crowbar. (just kidding on the last one - but it's the right shape.)

 

[crzteacher]

Maybe something like this -

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/wrecking-bars/20349?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvebhBRD5ARIsAIQUmnko7ZZkCs6gvMiElWmsyYVk7f0svyMf2SOUnE_Gc33TANLBavQDwXUaAuI2EALw_wcB

I might stop on the way and try to get one.

 

[MGMike]

Well, I have to lock the frame in a padded vise to do it, but it's not something one does very often.

The tack puller would work, too, I guess, but you'll probably have to file or grind out the "V" into a "U" to clear the strut.

M

 

[TheWatcher]

A pair of vice grip pliers will do the trick. Just don't apply more tension than is needed to get a good grip near the edge of the spring, then pull it straight up and out and the hammer strut will come put with it. As Mike stated earlier, do not cock the hammer so there isn't any tension on the spring.

I do it by hand, gripping by the top of the frame in one hand and using the pliers in the other, or threading my fingers through the mag well and pushing on the gripped pliers with my thumb, but then again, I seem to have a stronger grip than most.