Removing Barrel Nut From CA P22

14514 Views 28 Replies 11 Participants Last post by kstewart61, 5 mo ago

gaffer

Discussion Starter · Jan 30, 2019 (Edited)

3

I know there are many threads on the web about how to remove barrel nuts from CA model P22's, but I thought I would share my barrel nut experience.

Even though I live in Indiana (free state) the store I purchased my P22 from only had the CA model in the Angel Blue color. I knew that the only real difference was that the barrel nut was glued on, and did not have the wrench slots so it couldn't be removed (in their dreams!!).

My wife really wanted this pistol so, I purchased it.

I must admit this is really a nice looking gun.

I have read that you may need to apply heat, or dip the end of the barrel in some sort of release agent.

I thought I would try just unscrewing it first and see what happens. I wrapped a piece of leather around the nut and clamped down with a pair of vise grips and starting applying a bit of pressure. At the point where I felt that I was putting as much pressure as I was comfortable with the nut started turning. Victory! I might have just been lucky and the factory only applied a small of "glue".

I then removed the nut from the barrel and cleaned out the barrel threads and the nut thread using a small brass cleaning brush. There was some sort of dried of glue that the brush removed.

I then put the nut in my vise and filed two flats on the nut so a 7/16" would slide on. I just used a standard flat file and took my time, filing a bit at a time on opposite sides of the nut until the wrench just did slide on.

Since I will be attaching a suppressor to this gun I ordered the Barrel adaptor from Walther (it is only $20 right now).

I am pleased how this turned out and removing and reinstalling the nut now is easy.

If for some reason I ever need to return this gun to Walther for service I will make sure their threaded barrel adapter is on the barrel.

I hope this helps a bit for anyone thinking of doing this little project.

Ron

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skeeter149

· #2 · Feb 2, 2019

gives me hope for if I leave California!

1917-1911M

· #3 · Feb 4, 2019

That barrel nut is the only difference....regular P22 vs CA model. 1917

CavGuy

· #4 · Jan 24, 2020

I just got the P22 CA. I took a butane culinary torch, turned the flame down and held the inner part of the flame on the top of the barrel nut for 40 seconds. I took a locking plier with minimal pressure, turned counter clockwise, and it broke lose without a problem. I cleaned out the glue residue, and it's good to go. I have a suppressor adapter and there is a target barrel upgrade on the way.

ZeeP22Q

· #5 · Jan 25, 2020 (Edited)

gaffer said:
My wife really wanted this pistol so, I purchased it.

I must admit this is really a nice looking gun.

Ron

What's the two letter date code on the barrel on the ejection port side? BK?

I noticed the slide has an "F" stamped into the slide by the safety lever, and no red dot. Seems the latest models I've seen (with BK date codes, non-CA models) don't have any "F" or "S" stamped on the slide, but just a big red dot that shows when the safety lever is up (in the fire position).

And of course, the California models have the "CA" engraved after P22 on the left side of the slide.

1917-1911M

· #6 · Jan 30, 2020

The only thing I would caution here is to not file the flats too large so that it might be possible for the front of the slide to catch on the edge of the filed area. I think that is why the factory nuts are designed as they are with regard to the narrow cutout for the wrench lands.. 1917

gaffer

Discussion Starter · #7 · Feb 13, 2020

ZeeP22Q said:
What's the two letter date code on the barrel on the ejection port side? BK?

I noticed the slide has an "F" stamped into the slide by the safety lever, and no red dot. Seems the latest models I've seen (with BK date codes, non-CA models) don't have any "F" or "S" stamped on the slide, but just a big red dot that shows when the safety lever is up (in the fire position).

And of course, the California models have the "CA" engraved after P22 on the left side of the slide.

Mine is BJ, so 18. The photos on the Walther site of the p22 shows the S and F like mine (cal and non-cal). But they might not have updated the photos yet.

gaffer

Discussion Starter · #8 · Feb 13, 2020

1917-1911M said:
The only thing I would caution here is to not file the flats too large so that it might be possible for the front of the slide to catch on the edge of the filed area. I think that is why the factory nuts are designed as they are with regard to the narrow cutout for the wrench lands.. 1917

Good point! I never have used the "filed" nut since I use the barrel adapter. I did have to file a spare wrench which I had to file pretty thin to fit the new nut. I could have just filed two small slots in the original nut and then filed down my wrench, but didn't think of that at the time. (that thin Walther wrench does not come with the CA model.

BTW.. gun shoots good and is a lot of fun. I did have a problem with the firing pin spring (lost its spring), but Walther sent me one right out at no charge.

1917-1911M

· #9 · Feb 13, 2020

Next time try a bicycle shop. They have a wide variety of very thin wrenches. 1917

bplvr

· #10 · Jul 19, 2020

What color was the glue they used on the nut ? blue,red,clear gray...?

gaffer

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jul 19, 2020

bplvr said:
What color was the glue they used on the nut ? blue,red,clear gray...?

You know I really don't remember it being a color. I think it was just black (well I guess black is a color :>).

SunnyDaize

· #12 · Jul 19, 2020

gaffer said:
I know there are many threads on the web about how to remove barrel nuts from CA model P22's, but I thought I would share my barrel nut experience.

Even though I live in Indiana (free state) the store I purchased my P22 from only had the CA model in the Angel Blue color. I knew that the only real difference was that the barrel nut was glued on, and did not have the wrench slots so it couldn't be removed (in their dreams!!).

My wife really wanted this pistol so, I purchased it.

I must admit this is really a nice looking gun.

I have read that you may need to apply heat, or dip the end of the barrel in some sort of release agent.

I thought I would try just unscrewing it first and see what happens. I wrapped a piece of leather around the nut and clamped down with a pair of vise grips and starting applying a bit of pressure. At the point where I felt that I was putting as much pressure as I was comfortable with the nut started turning. Victory! I might have just been lucky and the factory only applied a small of "glue".

I then removed the nut from the barrel and cleaned out the barrel threads and the nut thread using a small brass cleaning brush. There was some sort of dried of glue that the brush removed.

I then put the nut in my vise and filed two flats on the nut so a 7/16" would slide on. I just used a standard flat file and took my time, filing a bit at a time on opposite sides of the nut until the wrench just did slide on.

Since I will be attaching a suppressor to this gun I ordered the Barrel adaptor from Walther (it is only $20 right now).

I am pleased how this turned out and removing and reinstalling the nut now is easy.

If for some reason I ever need to return this gun to Walther for service I will make sure their threaded barrel adapter is on the barrel.

I hope this helps a bit for anyone thinking of doing this little project.

Ron

Does anyone know why the California version has the barrel nut glued on? I have the CA version and was wondering why I didn't get the wrench and why I couldn't get the barrel nut off. Does CA just want us to have dirty guns?

gaffer

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jul 19, 2020

It is a "way" so that you can't screw on a suppressor. California Voters have allowed all these goofy gun laws in their state, this being one of them.

Reactions: 1

1917-1911M

· #14 · Jul 20, 2020

Actually there is no reason to remove the barrel unless you are changing from the 3.4" to the 5" barrel or vise versa. There is nothing needing routine cleaning that can't be reached with the barrel locked on. As to the history of it all the P22 landed on the CA assault firearm ban list due to the removable nut allowing a thread adapter to be added for suppression. Walther was able to work out a deal whereby the pistol could be sold in CA by locking the barrel nut in place with no wrench lands. California has further restrictions regarding the pistol (all pistols) I am told by Members here who live in CA. Once models are approved they can not be changed, updated by the factory or they require micro stamping of the firing pin nose...something manufacturers don't want to get into. I note on the Walther official site there are three or four pistol colors/configurations approved for CA sale. One is the Angel blue model shown above. I'm not sure if CA pistols can be delivered with the captive recoil spring assembly. These pistols show up for sale in other parts of the country and have so since day one. 1917

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1917-1911M

· #15 · Jul 20, 2020

The problem that I had with this layout is there is no good way for loosening it from the 5" barrel. You can screw it into your suppressor, align the barrel parts and screw it in tight enough but should the suppressor let loose rather than the nut upon removal, there is no way to remove the part except to grip the knurled portion with pliers or drill a hole through the forward end so you can insert something like an Allen wrench to remove it. The barrel stabilizer covers the rear end and there is no way to move the stabilizer rearward to expose the wrench lands. The cure is to remove the knurled portion permanently so that the stabilizer can be slipped off the end of the muzzle which then exposes the rear of the adapter nut. 1917

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skeeter149

· #16 · Sep 2, 2020

yeah in california we have the roster. theres i think 8 configs of the p22ca. i wanna say 2 5" and 7 3.4". we got the p22q version, but the new one with captive recoil spring will not be legal as long as the rosters there. the p22ca is grandfathered in so any changes it would need reapproval.

Javbike

· #17 · 8 mo ago

I did remove my barrel nut on a California model I had a hell of a time getting off so I ordered another from walther just in case for warranty

Javbike

· #18 · 8 mo ago

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Varnish Plank

This is a California model

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Javbike

· #19 · 8 mo ago

skeeter149 said:
yeah in california we have the roster. theres i think 8 configs of the p22ca. i wanna say 2 5" and 7 3.4". we got the p22q version, but the new one with captive recoil spring will not be legal as long as the rosters there. the p22ca is grandfathered in so any changes it would need reapproval.

Hey skeeter do you have the captive recoil spring in yours ?

alfsteur

· #20 · 8 mo ago

Javbike said:
Hey Javkbike, your P22 with threaded barrel adapter looks real good. I just picked up a P22CA as well, and I'm trying to update with a threaded adapter like yours, so hope you don't mind me asking a few questions:
1. Did you buy/get that extra barrel nut (CA compliant version) directly from Walther Arms? if so, mind sharing that link or site? I can't seem to find it.
2. Your threaded barrel adapter looks different from the one for sale on Waltherarms.com, where did you get this? and is this the long adapter version for new style barrel?
3. Did you need to heat the barrel to remove the nut? and with lighter? torch?
Btw, I replaced with captured spring, feels pretty good but have yet to test it out at a range.
Thanks in advance!

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