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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This PPK in a .22 was made around 1932 and issued to the Banks under contract from Walther. On trying it out for the first time I noticed the slide won't stay open on the last shot or otherwise. Before I take it to a gunsmith, I was wondering if this was by design or a mechanical problem? Thanks
 

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Valuable gun, rare mags, I would leave it alone and find another pistol to plink with.
 

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I can’t remember the design specifics, but I would suggest removing the slide and inserting the empty magazine to insure that the magazine engages and pushes up the hold-open lever. Your Reichsbank pistol is a valuable piece and shooting it lessens it value to collectors.
 

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... I would suggest removing the slide and inserting the empty magazine to insure that the magazine engages and pushes up the hold-open lever. Your Reichsbank pistol is a valuable piece and shooting it lessens it value to collectors.
It's not necessary to remove the slide; the action of the ejector/hold-open can be observed just by looking through the ejection port. See the second photo in post #23 in this thread: https://www.waltherforums.com/forum/pp-tp-series/122746-ppk-slide-release-questions.html

As for shooting it, I'd be reluctant to tender such advice without knowing why the OP acquired the gun. Maybe he just enjoys plinking with elegant weapons. I know that sentiment very well.

M
 

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It's not necessary to remove the slide; the action of the ejector/hold-open can be observed just by looking through the ejection port. See the second photo in post #23 in this thread: https://www.waltherforums.com/forum/pp-tp-series/122746-ppk-slide-release-questions.html

As for shooting it, I'd be reluctant to tender such advice without knowing why the OP acquired the gun. Maybe he just enjoys plinking with elegant weapons. I know that sentiment very well.

M
All very well and good, but that image is of a PPK with a functioning hold-open. We know there is NO action of the ejector/hold-open as the OP has stated such. My suggestion was to see if there was an underlying cause of the failure to hold the slide, which I don't believe can be seen with the slide remaining in place. Is the hold-open spring working? Does the empty magazine push up on the ejector/hold-open?

I had a similar problem with magazines for a BMR 9mmK PP. None of the magazines would seat in the BMR. I removed the slide and found that the ejector/hold-open for the 9mmK PP is a totally different design from a 7.65mm PP. Even the frame is machined differently, requiring part of the lip of the magazine to be removed allow the mag to engage the hold-open and still engage the BMR.
 

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Well, there isn't much you can't see with the slide retracted. You can see the condition of the breech front, the condition of the rear of the ejector....if there is one in the pistol and if an empty magazine follower is engaging the ejector. Hold open spring? The only spring that engages the ejector is the one pushing up on the mag follower. I don't believe the mag body should engage the ejector at all. I've got no problem with removing the slide and when I need to have a close look with the slide on I remove the recoil spring so I'm not having to fight that gorilla.

I'm not sure what last shot or otherwise means. Could be short stroking due to ammo or could be a missing ejector, could be a damaged part, could be a damaged follower or bad mag spring. We need to hear from the OP. 1917
 

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I don't know what the mechanical problem with the gun is but what a beauty. As others have said I don't think I would be shooting it but that is your business of course. Thanks for posting the pictures. I have never seen one with the two green magazines and matching numbers too. I would think you would look long and hard to find another like your gun and doubt you would ever find one.
 

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I can’t remember the design specifics, but ....
1917-1911M remembers them very well.

Myself, I'm on the ragged edge of Alzheimer's but I do remember that as the slide is pulled rearward with the magazine empty, the ejector can be seen popping upward to engage the breech face of the slide, with the result as shown in the photo. I assumed that the OP would have enough imagination to compare the ejector in his gun to the one shown when the slide was pulled open. If it didn't look like that, he will have identified a problem.

I did not post a full troubleshooting protocol for him because it's obvious that he's very unfamiliar with the gun (if he'd read a manual he'd have known the answer to his question), and probably doesn't know how to remove the slide without buggering up the rail edges. Since it's an elegant and unusual pistol, the risk of user-inflicted damage is to be avoided.

M
 

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Well, there isn't much you can't see with the slide retracted. You can see the condition of the breech front, the condition of the rear of the ejector....if there is one in the pistol and if an empty magazine follower is engaging the ejector. Hold open spring? The only spring that engages the ejector is the one pushing up on the mag follower. I don't believe the mag body should engage the ejector at all. I've got no problem with removing the slide and when I need to have a close look with the slide on I remove the recoil spring so I'm not having to fight that gorilla.

I'm not sure what last shot or otherwise means. Could be short stroking due to ammo or could be a missing ejector, could be a damaged part, could be a damaged follower or bad mag spring. We need to hear from the OP. 1917
The OP has no doubt taken it to a smithy for repair as we haven't heard from him.

MGMike suggestion to examine the ejector/hold-open area is fine and the link shows how much you can see. But of course that pistol has an operating hold-open. In the case of the OP, his gun fired and ejected rounds (so we know it has an ejector) but failed to stay open. I just felt a lot more could be easily seen with the slide removed, rather than having to use to hands to hold back the slide and look inside.

Please look at the center of this photo at the small wire spring compressed between the frame and the ejector/hold-open. It holds the hold-open down until pushed up by the follower.

I did not suggest the mag body of the OP's gun was engaging the ejector. I related a problem I had with a BMR 9mmK PP that led me to discover the design and machining of those ejector/hold-opens are totally different from the 7,65mm design.
 

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I have found that internet diagnosis is primarily difficult because of a couple of things. We don't have the gun in hand and the OP may or may not be familiar with parts of the firearm, their function, etc. Also, many posters simply do not ever report in again after their first post. I sometimes wonder if they even remember where they asked a question.

So, we really need the OP to answer a few questions....very specific questions. Does the gun even have an ejector in it? I've fired several just to see how they work with no ejector. Most of the time the spent case is ejected although erratically. Yes the .22 ejector/hold open arm is a little different in the .22 version but the manner in which it works is essentially the same. Yes the .22 mags are a bit different with regard to the left lip and of course the size of the round. And the follower is different with regard to the front tab that engages the ejector. I'm thinking other PP followers might fit the mag. Who knows what might have been done to the pistol over the years.

Photos would sure help and at least we need to hear from the OP so we can get some clarification. Otherwise we are just speculating on what might be the cause. Functional problems require very specific information and analysis to be effective....usually. I have run into posts where the OP says this pistol won't fire. Problem was, he had the safety on. More information needed.

This post is only two days old so hopefully we will hear from the OP again. I can put up pictures of the difference between the ejector of a .22 vs .32 and the difference in mag follower tabs. 1917
 

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Something in common....the ejector holds the slide open in the exact manner as show for all three calibers. The rear of the ejector might be a bit higher or lower but as long as it is placed securely in front of the breech block all is well. This is a photo of a .32 cal PP.



What kicks the ejector up so that the rear positions itself in front of the breech block is the follower on all three calibers. This photo shows the engagement of the .22 follower pressing the ejector up. The width of the .22 is slightly narrower than the .32/.380 but function is exactly the same.



Photo of a .32 showing the same as above. BTW, a .22 mag will insert but not lock into a .32 pistol. On the other hand a .32 mag will insert, lock in and operate the ejector properly in a .22 cal pistol. It just won't hold .22 ammo and certainly won't feed .32 ammo.



Pictured above is a .22 ejector. That isn't important. What is important is that the far left end should be square and not damaged. The inside arm that engages the mag follower should not be damaged, filed or ground on and nothing should be out of whack on the part. Simply inspect the part carefully.



Photo to show the OP what the mag lips on the left side and the nose of the .22 follower should look like.

This should at least give some talking points as a start of what is wrong with the OP's pistol. I can swap him a brand new Ft Smith model if he continues to have issues. Larger caliber too. 1917
 

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It's not necessary to remove the slide; the action of the ejector/hold-open can be observed just by looking through the ejection port. See the second photo in post #23 in this thread: https://www.waltherforums.com/forum/pp-tp-series/122746-ppk-slide-release-questions.html

As for shooting it, I'd be reluctant to tender such advice without knowing why the OP acquired the gun. Maybe he just enjoys plinking with elegant weapons. I know that sentiment very well.

M
an old friend long ago told me if you don't shoot it, it is just pig iron. If I like the gun, I am not waiting for the mythical gun collector who will bring me riches. Then again, I do not understand why some pay 80K for a new pickup and lose 47% of the value in 3 years (on average in US)
 

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an old friend long ago told me if you don't shoot it, it is just pig iron. If I like the gun, I am not waiting for the mythical gun collector who will bring me riches. Then again, I do not understand why some pay 80K for a new pickup and lose 47% of the value in 3 years (on average in US)
Amen, Brother.

Which is why I'm still driving a 2010. Only 47K on the odo; lots of road still ahead of it.

M
 

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The forward lips of the .22 magazine are asymmetric by design.

There is a tiny nick on the left rear lip, but that's the only damage I see.

M
 

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Is the spare mag damaged near the feed lip?
The .22 cal mag pictured above? If so, the left, front ear on the .22 is precisely stamped specifically for the .22 pistol. It is different from the shape of the same area on the .32 and .380 magazines. If you look closely you can see a small portion that actually aids in stopping upward movement of the follower and the front of the ear is cut away in order to clear the bottom leg of the ejector. Magazines typically have a number of specific design details for the pistol they fit. The lips are one area but the nose of the mag must also be cut low enough to clear the bottom of the feed ramp.

Are all of these precise shapes absolutely necessary. Yes and no. Obviously
Walther engineers did a lot of testing and went to a great deal of effort a long time ago to manufacture these mags very precisely so as to hold and position a .22 round for reliable feeding. But, in my testing of adapting other .22 mags to ( another thread somewhere ) fit and function in a PP .22 pistol I found that if a mag would physically fit, some could easily be modified to function in a PP. I simply used a real mag as a guide. 1917
 

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an old friend long ago told me if you don't shoot it, it is just pig iron. If I like the gun, I am not waiting for the mythical gun collector who will bring me riches. Then again, I do not understand why some pay 80K for a new pickup and lose 47% of the value in 3 years (on average in US)
A bit myopic. But I guess it depends on the dollars involved and the gun.


An old friend once told me that if as a collector you buy a $15,000 1900 Luger Carbine with stock to admire the beauty, design and workmanship, but then get an itch to shoot it and break the fragile leaf main spring, you are certainly a damn fool that deserves the consequences.
 

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... if as a collector you buy a $15,000 1900 Luger Carbine with stock to admire the beauty, design and workmanship, but then get an itch to shoot it and break the fragile leaf main spring, you are certainly a damn fool that deserves the consequences.
So if that happens you adapt another spring or call somebody who makes shotgun springs to fashion a duplicate, then you can keep shooting and enjoy its functionality as well as its esoterics.

How does a replacement spring lessen your admiration of the beauty, design and workmanship of a Luger carbine?

M
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Reichbank PPK

As you can hopefully see that when the clip is inserted it does not raise the bar to lock the slide. There is a notch on both clips that look factory and it looks like it is just notched out enough not to keep the slide open. When I use a 32 PPK clip the action holds open fine. My question is, does anyone know if a regular 22 clip for the PPK have the lip notched out as well?? The cheap solution would be to find another clip and put these away. Thanks.
 

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