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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. My gun started as a PPQ M1. I have since added a Q5 conversion slide and have about 300 rounds through the new slide.

I recently added the Walther Dynamic Performance Trigger.

Several facts:
-My original M1 slide (about 4000 rounds old) closes on the new trigger when reassembling smoothly.

-The newer Q5 slide closes on the original PPQ M1 trigger (again 4000 rounds old) pretty smoothly for reassembly.

Issue: when reassembling the Q5 slide onto the new Walther Dynamic trigger, it jams about a third of an inch from clearing the back frame rail.

If I... Railroad the slide through very fast and putting in a lot of downward? leverage, it clears it. Once on, it can be cycled without issues. It will not go on reassembling the slide like a normal person.

Question: Any idea what it's hanging up on? Should I just shoot to break it in? Or do I need to contact Walther about the new trigger?

Thanks for any help!


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I'm having a hard time following what you're describing. But, I'll post a couple of pictures to see if I'm even in the ballpark.

Is this where you say your slide is stopping?
99214


In this photo, the slide is in the same position as above....with the rear of the slide about 3/8 or 5/16 from back of the frame. The red arrow simply points to the take down lever. The green arrow simply shows you that the rear of the cutout for the slide catch is lined up with the from of the take down lever. THIS is the point when the rear of the locking lug on the barrel makes contact with the barrel lock in the frame. You'll feel resistance when you move the slide rearward, as the barrel lug is compressing the barrel lock into the frame as the lug passes over it.

99215


I'll say this....when installing the dynamic trigger....specifically, when you're putting the barrel lock spring and barrel lock back in the frame. If that spring is not installed properly (if its kinked or something) it may make compressing the barrel lock more difficult to maybe impossible. With that said, I'd suggest poking around on the barrel lock on your two frames to make sure they both feel the same...have the same resistance. NOW, if this isn't it....I have no clue, and would need additional information with pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow! Thank you very much for the very thorough reply! And the diagrams! This is very helpful. Yes that is exactly where the slide is stopping. I will double check the barrel lock and its spring as soon as I get a chance and report back.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After some tinkering--the barrel lock spring was fine. It sits in its own cup in the frame and in a cup in the lock itself.

To rule it out, I removed the barrel lock completely. The slide jams at the exact same spot. I noticed the left front top corner of the sear cage is starting to get chewed up...

There's a possibility the sear cage is sitting at a very very faintly tilted angle upwards at a front. Which I don't quite understand because it's held in place by the rear roll pin... How can it be seated at any other angle?

I'll try re seating the sear cage tomorrow.

Thanks again!


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Hmmmm, now that's odd. Refering to picture below, the red arrow points to a raised portion of the sear housing that slides down into a cutout in the frame, indicated by the other red arrow. The green arrow points to the corner of the sear housing that is sitting down inside of and flush with the frame indicated by the green arrow. So, you're not hitting the left side of the sear housing....if your boogerin' up anything on that side it'd be the frame, not the sear housing.

Me thinks, the boogerin' up of the left front corner of the frame probably happened when you were using the 'rail road' method of putting the slide on the frame. And, that would happen when the slide is a little over an inch from being completely on the slide.

To hang up at the point in the pictures...besides encountering the barrel lock, it's also just about the same time the rear of the slide is reaching the front of the rear slide rails in the frame. How does the rear of the slide look....particularly around the rail slots in the slide?


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Once again, you are correct. I have been chewing up the frame by slamming the slide on. The sear cage drops down through that precise channel with no margin for error.




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Well, when putting the slide back on the pistol, you carefully align the slots in the slide to match up with the front of the front rails on the frame...push er' rearward and the next thing you've gotta do is align the slots in the slide to match up with the front of the rear rails on the frame. You can push slide an another 1/8" rearward and this is where the lug on the barrel makes contact with the barrel lock on the frame.

I'm wondering if the trouble you've described in post 1 is simply not ensuring the slots in the slide are aligned with the front of the rear slots, as THAT's where you're saying the slide is stopping.

Try this....put the slide on the frame, push it back until it comes to that 'hard stop' and I'm assuming that's the point where the slide is whackin' into the rails...now just finesse it a little bit, left, right, up, down and see if you can get the rails and slots aligned, and when they are, that thing should go right on back.

When the slide is right here, you're still 1/8" from the barrel locking lug making contact with the barrel lock in the frame. See next two pictures.

99228



99229
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
To rule out any obstructions, Ive been trying this without the barrel lock, spring, take down lever, recoil spring, and barrel. So...empty slide.

The slide tracks are aligned with the rear frame rails and I'm able to slide it on and comes to jam with the last third or so of the rear frame rail remaining.

I've tried : twisting, tilting and turning the slide on all possible axis from this point to see if it's catching somewhere with no luck.

One thing I noticed is the plastic of the sear cage sits just a hair higher than the frame... Not sure if it's catching somewhere because of that. Or if that's perfectly normal. But obviously, the angle of the sear cage is set by the channel it drops down into, and the height of it is locked in by the roll pin.

I think at this point it's best to contact Walther support to discuss the new trigger.

To reiterate my original post, this only occurs on my newish-Q5 slide/new Dynamic trigger combination. I'm working with just one original M1 frame. The original M1 slide slides on just fine on the Dynamic trigger. Maybe because has 4k rounds of break in.

I cannot thank you enough for all of the detailed troubleshooting!


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Did you ever find anything out? I have the M1 with dynamic trigger and I noticed that it doesn’t close as smooth as it did on the factory trigger. Taking it off it still catches on something and takes a little wiggling to remove. I don’t think it’s as bad as yours but I noticed some marks on the fcu where it hits then I adjust, wiggle etc and it’s slides on. This is just the original slide haven’t had a chance to check a Q5 but hopefully soon. Everything else seems fine and fictions great at the range. The fcu is seared properly and everything seems fine not sure why it even hangs up a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hello. Unfortunately I haven't had time to address the issue with Walther support and it this point I might just deal with it. The gun functions and cycles just fine with either M1 or Q5 slide. Getting the Q5 slide on is the only issue but if I am aggressive, it slides on. No cycling issues whatsoever with the Performance trigger and Q5 slide.


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Just curious......have you tried removing the recoil spring and barrel from the slide, then putting the slide back on the frame? Now, if you try this, and you push the slide all the way on the frame and about 3/8" past 'in battery', the sear will pop up in front of the striker. To remove the slide, you just need to push the slide forward until it stops, then pull the trigger to let the sear drop down, then push the slide forward and off.
 

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P99QA Gen 1 (sold), PDP compact 4", PPS, Q5 Match, P22, and a few from lesser brands as well.
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I wonder if this is similar to mine. I have a Q5 match that I put an Apex trigger in. Since installing it, I have a similar issue assembling the pistol (and sometimes disassembling it too) where it gets hung up in the same position that is described in this thread. I found that if I push down on the back of the trigger bar where it hooks the trigger return spring, the slide will move freely at that point.

Something about the reshaped trigger bar is causing something to jam up when the slide is forward of the slide stop (field stripped). Pushing down on the rear of the trigger bar relieves that issue.

There are no issues with it once it is fully assembled. It cycles and functions normally.
 

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Okay, I just took another look. I removed the slide, turned the slide upside down and held the slide side by side (say that three times, fast) with the rear of the slide about 1/4 or 3/8 from being all the way on the frame. Its at this point the the 'front' of the front tab on the trigger bar makes contact with the rear portion of the FPB.

I know they recontour the rear of the front tab on the trigger bar, but I really don't think they do anything to the front of the tab.....so I'm kinda perplexed as to why the tab on the trigger bar is having trouble pushing the FPB 'up' as you're putting the slide back on the frame.

Go ahead and remove your slide and place it side by side, upside down and see if you see what I'm seeing and thinking.
 

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Sittin' here in my recliner with a doggie laying between my knees.......I reached over and grabbed the PPQ 40 sittin' in a holster attached to the end table, dropped the mag, racked the slide, ejecting the round.....did my el trick-0 to remove the slide without dryfring. 😂 Laid the slide upside down, beside the frame and snapped a picture.

Let's see.......the Green 'A' is pointing to the front tab on the trigger bar. the green 'B' is pointing to the rear of the FPB. The red 'C' is pointing to the beginning of the recess in the frame where the second tab (red 'E') on the trigger rest/rides/slides. The red 'D' is pointing to the rear of the channel. C, D and E are what provides for 'disconnecting' the trigger bar from the single action lever....as the slide travels rearward the front of the groove/channel 'C' is reached and the result is, tab 'E' is pushed down.....single action lever pops forward.

BUT back to the problem......the front of tab 'A' is contacting the FPB at 'B' at the point your guys seem to be having your sticking problem. As I said in the previous post....remove your FPB and give er' a try.
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