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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had a few Q5M in the past here and there, and I really liked them...Recently ordered one just to see what I can really do to it. I ordered the blue Apex trigger, and it finally came in...

I know the Q5M is a great gun out of the box, but I'm looking to attempt to squeak every bit of upgrades I can out of it (kinda like ricing out a Honda)...I've fully cajunized my Shadow 2, a CZ 75, and a CZ 97...did everything possible to them and then selecting whatever fits for whatever event I'm shooting at...so I'd like to know what you have done with your Q5M, or PPQ (since they're essentially the same guns)...please share some of your photos also...

I'm very interested in internal polishing...I broke down my Sig P320 X5 down to the last pin to polish the entire sear assembly/FCU, and it helped tremendously...did the same with all of my CZs with similar results...I'm wondering what sorts of polishing can be done on a PPQ/Q5M...I compare the design of the Walther more in line with the VP9, than the Sig Sauer P320, and I've had bad experience polishing the entire trigger bar of the VP9, so I'm threading cautiously with this Walther...anyone polished the trigger bar? If so, where? will polishing the entire trigger bar to a shiny finish affect the gun negatively like the VP9?

ThanX gents/ladies...
 

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Being and owner of both the VP9 and PPQ, I know the many limitations on what you can do when polishing or modifying the VP9. None of those concerns affect the PPQ. Polishing will make the action more smooth, you can add a creep adjustment screw to give you a crisp break, and you can play around with different trigger return springs to adjust the trigger weight. The only thing to look out for is to note that if you replace the firing pin block spring, the pistol will no longer be drop safe. Have fun!

http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/ppq/50009-ppq-adjustable-creep-conversion-guide.html
 

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MJA, you going overboard. You'll get the most gain for the buck if you concentrate on only three areas. 1) The area where the trigger bar guide rubs/slides back and forth on the top of the trigger bar (below the green line in the picture). That area needs to be free from burrs. Mirror polish not required. Just 30 seconds with a piece of 600 grit sand paper wrapped around a popsicle stick. 2) use the same popsicle stick on the tab that rubs on the firing pin block....remove the FPB and work on the ramp....just a little smoothing, no need to go nuts. 3) the area of the trigger bar that rubs on the side of the sear housing. Just stick some 400 grit sand paper between the two and pull the trigger about 50 times. Turn the sand paper the other way (180°) and do it again. Blow everything out/off, clean up, reassemble and lube pistol. DONE.

Absolutely no need to disassemble the sear housing. Nothing to be gained by peckering around in there.

Did you pay attention to the single action sear spring....it has a long leg and a short leg (red circle). Its sometimes kind of a 8itch to get all that stuff back in the sear housing...and the spring will only work 'one way'.

Tanfoglio has some good PPQ disassembly pictures on here somewhere.

Good luck and have fun.

Remember, 'less is more'. And, 'more can sometimes result in unintended consequences'.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
MJA, you going overboard. You'll get the most gain for the buck if you concentrate on only three areas. 1) The area where the trigger bar guide rubs/slides back and forth on the top of the trigger bar (below the green line in the picture). That area needs to be free from burrs. Mirror polish not required. Just 30 seconds with a piece of 600 grit sand ......


Remember, 'less is more'. And, 'more can sometimes result in unintended consequences'.
ThanX a lot man...I really appreciate it...I just couldn't find any one or anywhere that has any advice on what to polish and what to not..
 
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