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Hey Rick.

Your gun will actually be fully functional without those springs and parts.

Without the ones going along the side of the the bottom (as it fits in the slide) of the firing pin block as well. Basically, you do not need all of the parts on the bottom of that block for the gun to fully function. Including the firing pin safety!

Try it, you will see.

I have had those parts sitting in a baggie in my drawer for 5 or 6 months now.

And it does make a little bit of difference in the trigger. Try it.

Doc
 

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You're welcome.

Let us know how it turned out and whether you noticed a difference.

I have been using the gun without those parts for long enough that I have forgotten what the before/after felt like.

Doc
 

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The problem with removing those springs and parts, is that you have just removed the only safeties that this gun has (the drop safety and the trigger safety). If they are removed, and the hammer is hit it, can drive the firing pin onto a live round. Not good.
Doe anyone really need a lighter trigger than the "stock" one ?(that is one of the attributes of this pistol...)
 

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The issue of safeties is as oft contested as much as calibers and trigger pull weight.

The debate on these topics is endless and has been done to death and I have watched it for 50 years or more.

The bottom line is it is your gun and your right and you need to do whatever you feel is right.

Me, I have no desire for safeties including my biggest pet peeve the magazine disconnect safety.

In my opinion any gun owner with a lick of sense is not going to clean or examine a loaded gun. It should be hardwired into every responsible gun owner to clear the gun before pointing it anywhere you do not plan to kill/destroy.

If there is a magazine or magazine release malfunction or error, the MDS turns your gun into a club. I want that one shot at least of the round in the chamber.

LOL see I got off onto the topic without even meaning to.

As I said the debate is endless and if history has taught us anything, it is very very damn few people change their minds anyways. The reason is simple. Everyone is always right, just ask them.

Doc
 

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So, recently, during a USPSA match, my slide lock lever broke. Walther sent me one but I was at a loss where to go after working the take down lever out. I spent much time with internet/youtube searches (which is how I found this post) but just couldn't come up with anything more than a field strip. I emailed customer support but got the obligatory "can't help beyond a field strip" reply (which I understand completely).

I persevered and got it figured out. NOW, I'm reassembling and while I know how the small "disconnect" lever and spring go into place, I just can't figure out how they (the assemblers at the factory) keep them positioned while sliding the hammer group in place. A jig maybe?

Any suggestions?

UPDATE: Got it! It took a lot of trial fitting and a little ingenuity but... I got it! Now I just have to take it to the gun club for some test firing!
 

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Hello Everyone, I appreciate all of the info and found it very useful. I now consider myself a pro at lever and lever spring installation. I was wondering if anyone had a picture of the parts in place? I am facing everything judging from the way its facing on the posted diagram and am not sure if its working. it seems to just be pushing the spring to the side.

Thanks, Scott
 

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Paul,

Thank you for the help. I really appreciate your pictures and sorry you had a problem getting them posted. After an hour of frustrating manipulation, I'm back together. I'm a big fan of the information and help from good people like yourself these forums provide. The first chance I get, I plan to pay it forward.

Thanks Again,
Scott
 
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