[Nebor]

About a month ago, I purchased a Walther PPS First Edition because I thought it would make a good CCW, and I had to send my H&K USP Compact back to HK for repair (No Compromise... except on flat springs.)

I initially put 200 rounds through it, and got 2 FTEs. The spent shells were not being fully extracted before the next round in the magazine was jammed up underneath it. This jam is only cleared by locking the slide back and forcefully pulling the magazine from the bottom of the gun.

After a thorough cleaning, I went back to the range, and put another 200 rounds through it. Again I got 2 FTEs of the same variety. So I'm thinking, 99% reliability, I suppose that's not too bad, for a gun that isn't a Sig or HK.

Then the other day I went and put another 400 rounds through it, receiving no less than 10 FTEs (evenly distributed through the day.)

The weapon occasionally hits me in the forehead with ejected shells.

Anyone else having such reliability issues, or should I send this gun back to Walther? We're talking 800 rounds and still not "broken in."

 

[MontanaBighorn]

CLICK HERE for my full report. my first PPS failed, the second one appears to be great. what is your serial number? fwiw, my first one was PPS118, my second is PPS160.

 

[Soybomb]

have you tried multiple ammo types? It might need to go back but its worth checking to see if it just happens with 1 type of ammo first.

 

[0849]

A few thoughts / suggestions:

-I would field strip and visually inspect very closely in good lighting to see if any inidcations of anything interesting.
-Agree with soybomb, maybe try different ammo.
-Double check chamber area to ensure it is definitely squeaky clean.
-Make absolutely certain slide is not touching anything as it cycles back, part of hand, arm, clothing, etc.

 

[jhiller]

0849 makes good points. Follow those.
Then buy a couple of boxes of +P stuff like win ranger or Speer GD. Sometimes the additional OOMPH of the slightly higher pressure will give small slides enough momentum to overcome a slightly sticky action.
Unless you have a problem with chamber sizing or ejection spring I'd bet that you will see 100% reliability .Also be careful that your weapon is solidly held.
I won't get into soft grip problems but +P helps that too.
Let us know
Jim

 

[Nebor]

Haven't had any malfunctions with Speer Gold Dots. But I've shot relatively few of those compared to WWB. Personally I consider WWB to be universally decent ammo. Any gun should be able to run it without issue.

The gun is clean, the action is definitely sticky, and I know how to shoot.

The gun is ridiculously accurate for having a 2.5" barrel. I was shooting sets of 5 steel plates at 20 yards next to my dad, who was shooting a Wilson Combat Commander sized 1911, and I was handily beating him.

 

[jhiller]

800 rounds is way too long for a break-in issue.

Have you had failures with different mags ? It could be a follower issue.

My inclination would be to send it back. I have about 500 rds through my PPS without a failure. About 200 were WinClean and the balance Corbon DPX, Ranger 124+p and Win 127 +P+.

I wouldn't accept anything but 100% when pistol is clean and lubed
Jim

 

[PX15]

Send it back..


JP

 

[Nebor]

I've noticed that it drags the next cartridge in the magazine VERY far forward after every round fired. So ejecting the mag while it still has ammunition in it can sometimes be kind of tricky. I also assume that the cartridges being pushed so far forward in the magazine is causing premature loading, and thus the failure I'm experiencing, where the next cartridge is rammed up under the empty shell right after firing.

 

[jhiller]

Generally that is because the slide velocity is low. It isn't stripping cartridges cleanly.
Same problem with all mags ?

 

[delorean]

I've had FTEs on the few sub-compact Glocks and XDs I've shot before. I'm pretty sure it's been from not having a strong enough grip on the gun since I could repeat it if I tried. I was shooting with practice ammo in each case.

Not calling you a "limp wrist" or anything, I promise. Next time you get a FTE, think back on how much you let the muzzle rise or how much the gun moved in your hand.

 

[153]

I would agree, ocassionally I just relax my grip enough to allow a pistol not to cycle. Happens most frequently with smaller autos.

I always try to remember the advice of good old Skeeter Skelton, which is to grip the handgun as hard as you can. I'm not 100% though.

I'll wager if you concentrate on your grip the FTF and FTE will disappear.

 

[jhiller]

If reliability requires 100% attention to grip strength you have a useless piece of metal ( or in this case plastic) in your holster.

When the ball drops and you need to use your weapon to preserve your life, you will not be concentrating on your grip or your stance, Your whole body will shake including your hands . Your pistol must be able to work reliably under those conditions. That is why a 5" steel pistol is more reliable than a mouse gun like the PPS. The slide weight and margin for error are much less in a larger weapon.

All you can do is reduce the risk for mechanical error and train, train,train and train some more.

Send it back. Then find a load that it like and stick with that. Once again I suggest a +p load in the 115- 127 gr range. +P will increase cycle speed and overcome a loose grip.
Your pistol is a tool, nothing more. Make it work like one.
My mags cam with sticky tuff in them. I took in out with RemAction Cleaner and then very lightly lubed them.

I can understand a FTF or stovepipe after you've fired 200 rounds with a PPS but it should be 100% when clean and lubed using ammo it likes

 

[MGMike]

When the ball drops and you need to use your weapon to preserve your life, you will not be concentrating on your grip or your stance, Your whole body will shake including your hands . Your pistol must be able to work reliably under those conditions. That is why a 5" steel pistol is more reliable than a mouse gun like the PPS. The slide weight and margin for error are much less in a larger weapon.

There's a lot of wisdom right there. Some unwelcome baggage comes along when you pare size and weight for the sake of "concealability".

There's no free lunch.

M

 

[Nebor]

Put another 100 rounds through it today. The limp wrist theory holds no water, since my girlfriend fired it for most of those rounds, and got 1 FTE, and I fired it for about 25 rounds and got 1 FTE.

One of those was a stovepipe though. The other was the more traditional failure to extract from the chamber.

I'm thinking this Walther is just going to be relegated to the back of my safe. I've never owned a Walther before, and I didn't really expect it to be as reliable as a Sig or H&K, so I pretty much got what I expected.

 

[jhiller]

Don't do that.
Send it back and ask them to check chamber size,check for roughness on ramp, replace recoil spring and verify accuracy of rails,
You should purchase at least one new mag and carefully clean that.

When returned carefully clean and lube weapon. I suggest rem-oil. Light oiling at most
Then purchase one box of three different types of ammo. All should be +p. Try DPX, Speer 9mm SB and and HST. All of those will generate good cycle speed and substantial pressure. If you have a failure eliminate that brand.
I suggest that reliability will begin to degrade after 100 rds at the most, but so what. Nobody gets into a 100rd firefight with a mouse gun.

This is a solvable problem ! It is too erratic and intermittent to be otherwise.

 

[PX15]

JMOFO:

It's a shame your opinion of Walther quality is based solely on your experience with the PPS.

I've owned a PP/P1/P5, still own a P99c/AS and P99/AS and without exception they have been flawless, and all of them have been very accurate. In the cases of the P99's, extremely accurate.

One reason I DO NOT want a PPS (right now) is because it is a new model. I don't trust a new "anything" and prefer to wait a spell and let the new owners "beta testers" locate the bugs so they can be corrected for the rest of us.

I wish you had started out with a P99c/AS or P99/AS. I have never had a better overall firearm than my compact P99c/AS.. And that includes my previous all time favorite Sig P239. (I still have the Sig).

Since you have already purchased the PPS I would recommend you send it back as Smith & Wesson does the warranty work in the US for Walther and they have a very good reputation for warranty work.

When the PPS gets back if you are still unhappy with it then I recommend you sell it and buy a new P99c/AS.

Hope you get the issues resolved to your satisfaction with your new PPS.. I just hate it when things like this happen, but sometimes new products come with issues, guess the PPS is going to be one of those.

Best Wishes,

J. Pomeroy

 

[Pitmaster]

JMOFO:
When the PPS gets back if you are still unhappy with it then I recommend you sell it and buy a new P99c/AS.

Offer it up on this site first though. I'm sure it won't make it through the day without being sold.

 

[Nebor]

A friend of mine bought a Walther P99C QA the same day I bought my PPS. His has yet to have a single failure. Interestingly enough, both guns came from the factory shooting about 3" to the left @ 7 yards. We fixed the sights on both, and they're extremely accurate.

Just his is reliable, and mine isn't.

What I don't get is the guns and ammo review. The guy shot a whole case of 9mm without cleaning, and had no problems!

 

[Steever]

I have a PPS first edition, serial #108. I've shot about 500 rounds of Mag-Tech and have yet to have a single problem. It's been nothing but fun and very accurate for me. Perhaps it was the luck of the draw, but I wouldn't trade it for anything!
Steve