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I just picked up a PPS M1 with the BE date and can't see any S&W markings on it. Where would they be?? Theres' a DE with a cip over n and a BE along with the antler mark and s/n on the slide and a walther arms /fort smith ar on one side, Carl Walther Ulm/Made in Germany on the other.
 

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Starting with the BC (2012) date code they changed the S&W roll mark to Walther Arms, which I like. And starting with the BE (2014) date code they changed the proof mark from the eagle over N to CIP over N, which I don't like, I really liked that cool little eagle :).
 

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New Member With Questions

Father in law still loves to shoot, but can't handle larger calipers anymore. At a gun show he picked up a 380 polymer frame Walther and said it felt better in his hand than any gun he's ever held, so I surprised him with it for Christmas. After having the opportunity to shoot it a couple of times, was very impressed with it. Having the opportunity to buy another gun (I only own and shoot 40 cal), I purchased a PPS Classic in 40. One thing I noticed was instead of the 5-6and 7 Roland mags, it came with 2 X 6 and 1 X 7 round mags. Very cool since I don't like wrapping my little finger under the base plate! Reading this forum, I see the comments about the BB/BA and AK models. I have one that has the AK prefix on the serial number. Is this bad? What do I need to do to make any upgrades? The other thing I noticed was the box has a blue label " No. XXXXXXXLE PPS .40 S&W 6rd Law Enforcement Sales Only 3 LE/GOV Magazines". The numbers X'd out above do not match the AK serial number on the white label that the blue label partially covers. The blue label also has the Walther logo and a bar code, which is covered by a sticker "8/14/15". On first cleaning, I read in manual where to look for "M" mark to indicate whether it has empty mag safety on it or not. Mine does not, so supposedly it can be fired without a mag in it. I guess that's part of the LE edition? Can someone enlighten me as to what I have here? Love the gun and gonna keep it. Just want to find out if I need to upgrade any parts to the "BB" serial number era.... THANKS !

OK. Finished reading the thread. Mine is a BE.... So basically, is there anything to look for or change/upgrade?
 

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Just went to range shot 50 clean rounds with my used but New to me paid 300.00 what a Great Gun love it.

Sent from my LG-LS777 using Tapatalk
 

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Like the squarish look better but could stand better backstrap attachment, update grip surface, heck make this the P365 / hellcat competitor redo it a bit tad smaller, keep paddle release, add RMR cut and different plates.
 

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It's dead Jim.

The PPS M1 is never going to come back.


Let it go. It was the right gun at the wrong time and it cost too much when it was released. I like mine, but the P365 is, by far, the better weapon. Walther squandered their lead in this category and there is no getting it back.

Now that the P99 is likely to follow the same path, I have little to no interest in any modern Walther. Their older guns are cool, the new ones are merely meh.

Sad but true.
 

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the P365 is, by far, the better weapon
Only if your measuring stick is skewed toward capacity. I say this because every out-of-the-box P365 trigger I've pulled … absolutely sucks … compared to every out-of-the-box PPS Classic trigger I've pulled.

I say this as someone who owns a pair of PPS classics -and- a P365 SAS … and as someone who shot several P365's on multiple occasions prior to purchasing the P365 SAS.

The P365's capacity and size are outstanding, but the OEM P365's trigger is mushy with a crappy break and a crappy reset. Thus, if your measuring stick is skewed toward trigger feel/travel/reset/accuracy, the PPS Classic will win, hands-down, every time.
 

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Funny how I have a completely opposite impression of the P365. I shot it side by side with my PPS M1, with the same ammo, and I found the 365 to be the easier pistol to shoot accurately, and I shot it more accurately, and it was the first one I ever held in my hands.


One size does not fit all, as they say.
 

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The trigger is quite usable on the P365, but IMHO it's longish compared to the PPS Classic … and it feels mushy leading up the proverbial wall, leading to a rolling break rather than a crisp one.

I train to rapid-fire until either the threat abates or the magazine is empty in a self-defense situation. I dump my PPS' load (using 6rnd, 9mm magazine) in less than 2.5 seconds into a 4" circle at 5 yards fairly reliably … but that circle tends to expand to 7" for me with the P365 SAS.

Note that I'm using XS Big Dots on my PPS and the SAS's unique sights (both allow fast acquisition time while sacrificing accuracy) -- so the sighting systems are fairly comparable, as they have the same benefits and tradeoffs. Close analysis of the shooting differences, for me, comes down to the P365's trigger. It's acceptable, but it's not as good as my PPS trigger in terms of LOP, feel approaching the wall, crispness of break, or reset.

All of those things add up to accuracy loss for me when shooting at speed for defensive purposes. I intend to rectify this by smithing the P365 trigger, hopefully reducing LOP/takeup, improving feel approaching the wall, and improving crispness. The reset I'll just have to live with, so I hope it's not the primary contributor to the delta in group sizes at speed. Do note that when shooting at pokey 1rnd/sec or 1rnd/3sec speeds, there's little difference in my group sizes at the same distances. Only when shooting at defensive speeds do my groups grow larger with the P365 than they do with the PPS Classic.

I might consider replacing the PPS Classic with the P365 SAS as my EDC after the trigger work on the P365 SAS … and after proving out the smithed gun. Time will tell. In the meantime, my PPS Classic remains as my EDC, as I'll take accuracy at speed over capacity all day long.
 
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