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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all:

I just received my pistol back from Robar; I had them do a "Norton Special" in NP3+ (internal and external metal parts). Robar says NP3+ is really only needed for extremely humid or corrosive environments (shipboard, or in a tropic jungle), but it wasn't that much more, and I wanted to compare NP3 and NP3+ side by side.

Here's the PPS in NP3+ (click picture for larger version):



And here's the Ruger Mark III in NP3 (click picture for larger version):



I can see virtually no difference between the two. The NP3+ may be slightly less slippery, but it may be my imagination also. In any case, the coating is slick to the touch, does not retain fingerprints, but it isn't too slick to interfere with working the slide. There's no "yellowish" tinge as I've read some nickel based platings have.

All in all, I'm highly pleased - pending their operation at the range of course. I haven't shot either of them yet, but I hope to do so Wednesday evening; I'll let you all know how the coating affected the PPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had the Robar treatment done on the Walther for a couple reasons:
  • Primary reason: I wanted a gun with higher innate "lubricity" than what it already had. It's my primary CCW, so anything within reason that makes it more reliable or withstand abuse better is appealing.
  • I carry it IWB and in a SmartCarry, which are somewhat "firearm unfriendly" areas for moisture.
  • Most reports of a NP3 coated PPS mention it smooths a good trigger out even more. No expectations, but I wouldn't cry if it turns out to be true :)
  • I definitely like the look.
For the Ruger:
  • Primary reason: after one fully field stripped cleaning session, I decided I wanted a surface that is easier to clean off rimfire residue.
  • Since Robar had to strip down the gun to coat it, they offered to coat a Volquartsen accurizing kit and reassemble the gun withe the new parts at no extra charge.
I wanted one gun in NP3, the other in NP3+, so I could see the differences between the two firsthand. Since the polymer framed Walther cost less to plate, I chose it for the more expensive NP3+ process.

I sent the guns off the last week of December 2011; the estimated completion date was 2/28/2012. I got the pistols back in mid March, but the delay was due to the Ruger:
  1. I had to ship them a magazine due to the disconnect feature,
  2. then it was re-plated a second time because the first plating didn't meet Robar QC standards.
The Walther was done on time, but I had Robar ship them back together to save shipping costs.

I couldn't make it to the range yesterday, so tonight is the first shoot. I've spot lubricated them with Militech, and will go from there.
 

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Just thought of this while staring at the PPS with the beautifully practical coating.

They had to remove the front and rear sight to coat it, and then place the sights back. When you took it to the range, was there any noticeable difference in POA to POI from what it was before? Just curious as to whether they drift the rear sight back in place with a certain method, or just eyeball it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dusty76 said:
Did you lose the serial number/proof marks on the right side of the slide.
Serial number is still present and very readable; however, the proof marks are no longer visible.

swa0210 said:
When you took it to the range, was there any noticeable difference in POA to POI from what it was before?
Point of aim did not change; they must have made a point of putting the sights back where they were previously.
 

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Looks so Smart...it slaps you in the face

That is not just good, it's really, really fine looking. I have resolved to copy cat your Robar/NP3 job. It ensures that you have a lifelong gun.

Question to Fragerzer: You said they plated all the external and Internal parts. I assume that means the trigger sear, trigger bar, and all the small tirgger contact points. I was wondering if you noticed a smoother, crisper trigger break and reset?

Here in Mass, we are struggling with the "H" disconnector that results in a 15 lb break. I think it may have calmed to 12 or 13 after a few rounds, but I want a better trigger. My goal is to make this my ultimate EDC, winter, spring, summer, and fall. I have just made the personal decision that I will either carry 7/24 or not at all. I want a gun that can consistently "be there."

Another part of the Robar/NP3 treatment that other posts have already mentioned is the virtually 0 friction lubricity. I know 0 friction is almost impossible, but I am making the point that not having to add oil is great. Just wiping it down, and leave it dry...priceless. That also implies that the gun will function that much more reliably if you remove the possibility of all that moon dust and sticky build up. Let's face, our PPS is not the easiest gun to fully detail strip. I intend to get the Robar treatment done, then, load up a few mags....and set it and forget it.

Many guys will have more than one gun as do I. If you had a semi auto that you clean perfectly and lightly oil, then put it into a safe, it will still get a bunch of dust and build up somehow. With the Robar I'm thinking that if I store it dry it will be be ready to fire.

Final Note: I have owned and fired many, many different firearms, and the Walter PPS is best of it's kind. I don't know why it's such a sleeper. I feel I have one of the best kept secrets.

Jackster
 

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That looks great! Had an HK done with NP3 years ago and it was great. I'd still put a little bit of oil on "rub points" but a total coating wasn't needed. Wish I hadn't traded that one away. For a close to body carry weapon it's a great finish and the people at Robar are top notch.
 

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I decided awhile ago that this was a route I would go if/when the PPS started to rust a little.


Quick question, I work around Chlorine a lot....would the NP3+ help prevent any damage from that exposure?
 
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