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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A while back I picked up a PPQ Q5 Match for a good price (came with three 15 round magazines, three 17 round magazines, original case, etc.). The original owner had competition springs installed, which made the trigger seriously light - light enough that I end up with a few double taps at the range.



I want to install the original springs. How hard is this job and what tools do I need to have on hand?? I have a punch set, as well as some other armorers tools (roll pin tool, sight tool, bench vise, and another kit that I can't remember off hand). If anyone can give me some guidance on this, your input will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Well, one option is to learn how to shoot with the light springs. All that takes is pulling the trigger and holding the trigger all the way to the rear until the muzzle has come back down to the target, then, gently let the trigger come forward 1/10" to reset the trigger. It just takes a little practice.

If you're using too light a finger on the trigger you'll certainly have some unintended double taps. Ask me how I know this.

Or, option 2. There are only 2 springs involved in the light trigger setup. One is the Trigger return spring and the other is the Firing pin safety, which we usually refer to as the FPB spring. Both are easy to change. If this is what you want to do, you'll need to call Walther and order the springs, as they're not available from the aftermarket.

FPB spring is part number 2762781
Trigger return spring is part number 2624338
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I got the factory springs with it when I bought it, so I have everything I need. I just need to know how far down it has to be taken apart to change them.
 

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Errrrr, not very far. Remove the slide. You'll need to remove the extractor, or at least remove the extractor pin and pivot the extractor out far enough to release the FPB. It might be necessary to also use your thumb to move the striker rearward just a little too. Or you could just remove the slide end cap and remove the striker or slide it rearward a 1/4" or so. Be careful and don't let the FPB pop out (there's a spring under it)....but with the weaker spring, this is not as big a problem....still, put your thumb over the FPB when you start to release it.

Remove the FPB and spring, insert the stock spring and assemble in reverse order.

As for the trigger return spring, I made a little 'hook' tool....you might could look around and find some kind of a hook tool on ebay. I use the hook tool to grab the rear of the spring and move it off the trigger bar. Once that's loose, the front of the spring fits into a tiny hole in the front of the sear housing. It takes a little fiddling to get that thing out of there.

I can do one of these jobs in ..... well, I've never timed it .... but 3 or 4 minutes....maybe faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I ended up going to Wright Armory locally today to have them look at another firearm. So, I just had them swap the factory springs back in. Stock trigger feel is back.
 

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Errrrr, not very far. Remove the slide. You'll need to remove the extractor, or at least remove the extractor pin and pivot the extractor out far enough to release the FPB. It might be necessary to also use your thumb to move the striker rearward just a little too. Or you could just remove the slide end cap and remove the striker or slide it rearward a 1/4" or so. Be careful and don't let the FPB pop out (there's a spring under it)....but with the weaker spring, this is not as big a problem....still, put your thumb over the FPB when you start to release it.

Remove the FPB and spring, insert the stock spring and assemble in reverse order.

As for the trigger return spring, I made a little 'hook' tool....you might could look around and find some kind of a hook tool on ebay. I use the hook tool to grab the rear of the spring and move it off the trigger bar. Once that's loose, the front of the spring fits into a tiny hole in the front of the sear housing. It takes a little fiddling to get that thing out of there.

I can do one of these jobs in ..... well, I've never timed it .... but 3 or 4 minutes....maybe faster.
90% of the trigger pull is determined by the trigger return spring, as I've tried it both ways and the striker block spring made the trigger much smoother (thanks oldfart), but didn't do anything for the pull. I used a gauge to check it both ways.

I use a very small needle nosed pliers and can switch trigger springs in less than a half minute.
 

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Totally easy to do

I'd suggest you visit Youtube and watch the videos on how to install the springs. I put in the Sprinco kit in both of my PPQ's, takes a couple of minutes.

Easy-peasy.
 
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