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I just called Earl's as I ordered the Dynamic Trigger and was concerned that without a tuned sear assembly the trigger would still have two surges of creep before break. The gentleman I spoke to said that they had already gotten some in and were shipped but that my order would likely come in the end of next week. He said the sear assembly was another $80 (his cost) but was providing it as a pass through if you bought the trigger. Of course, I added it.
 

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I just called Earl's as I ordered the Dynamic Trigger and was concerned that without a tuned sear assembly the trigger would still have two surges of creep before break. The gentleman I spoke to said that they had already gotten some in and were shipped but that my order would likely come in the end of next week. He said the sear assembly was another $80 (his cost) but was providing it as a pass through if you bought the trigger. Of course, I added it.
I guess I better call Earl's. My phones are terrible. Maybe he's tried to call, I just figured it would be automatically shipped.
 

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Hi Guys, first post here but I just want to share that I just got my dynamic trigger from Earl's today. I did a set screw mod already so I didn't install the new sear unit, but looking at the new included sear unit the sear overlap is certainly better than the stock sears but a little more contact and creep than I would usually use myself. I have an apex trigger and an overwatch precision trigger in my .45s so I can compare a bit.

For the fit, the Dynamic trigger is a better fit than the apex or the overwatch with less side to side wobble than either when installed. The Dynamic trigger breaks further forward than either the Apex or the Overwatch triggers. The overtravel and reset are both slightly longer compared to the Overwatch trigger, which is a bit longer than the Apex in both regards. The spring in the leaf safety is stiffer which means that I have to be conscious about how I pull or it may not disengage given the lighter ~3lb spring I'm using. I do like the appearance better than the Overwatch because the glossy black just didn't match well in my opinion.

Like the Overwatch trigger, the trigger bar doesn't hit the firing pin block until after the break. The Apex trigger is different in this regard because its always contacting the firing pin block and I believe it disengages slightly before the break. With my Overwatch trigger, once I did the set screw modification I noticed that my break had been moved back slightly which meant that I could feel the trigger bar hitting the firing pin block before the break. I filed down firing pin block to delay the disengagement and smooth out the takeup but the short overtravel made this slightly precarious because if I removed too much material the gun would not fire. With the Dynamic trigger this isn't a problem because the added overtravel gives more overhead for this modification. With these modifications both the Dynamic trigger and the Overwatch trigger have completely smooth takeup and no noticeable creep or sticking at any point of the trigger pull. The apex trigger has a tiny bit of "stickyness" because it does have contact with the firing pin block throughout the takeup. Haven't shot a 1911 in a while but this is pretty close to what I can remember.
IMG_0957.jpg
 

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Leaf safety probably isn't the term. Its the little tab on the trigger that swings and blocks the pull. BTW if anyone is wondering how they plugged the hole in the new sear unit, it looks like they just use a waffle patterned soldering iron tip and melted the hole over. I'd post a picture but I already remodified it to be adjustable. It was comically easy. The iron left an indent about 5mm in diameter so I used a 4mm drill bit and drilled down to the screw, which was under maybe .4-.5mm thick plastic. and then I used a 1.5mm drill bit to clear the plastic out of the grub screw. Can be done in 10 seconds if you're in a rush. When you modify the stock unit you actually have to be a bit careful not to drill a wonky hole but here its pretty hard to mess up.
 

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Hi Guys, first post here but I just want to share that I just got my dynamic trigger from Earl's today. I did a set screw mod already so I didn't install the new sear unit, but looking at the new included sear unit the sear overlap is certainly better than the stock sears but a little more contact and creep than I would usually use myself. I have an apex trigger and an overwatch precision trigger in my .45s so I can compare a bit.

For the fit, the Dynamic trigger is a better fit than the apex or the overwatch with less side to side wobble than either when installed. The Dynamic trigger breaks further forward than either the Apex or the Overwatch triggers. The overtravel and reset are both slightly longer compared to the Overwatch trigger, which is a bit longer than the Apex in both regards. The spring in the leaf safety is stiffer which means that I have to be conscious about how I pull or it may not disengage given the lighter ~3lb spring I'm using. I do like the appearance better than the Overwatch because the glossy black just didn't match well in my opinion.

Like the Overwatch trigger, the trigger bar doesn't hit the firing pin block until after the break. The Apex trigger is different in this regard because its always contacting the firing pin block and I believe it disengages slightly before the break. With my Overwatch trigger, once I did the set screw modification I noticed that my break had been moved back slightly which meant that I could feel the trigger bar hitting the firing pin block before the break. I filed down firing pin block to delay the disengagement and smooth out the takeup but the short overtravel made this slightly precarious because if I removed too much material the gun would not fire. With the Dynamic trigger this isn't a problem because the added overtravel gives more overhead for this modification. With these modifications both the Dynamic trigger and the Overwatch trigger have completely smooth takeup and no noticeable creep or sticking at any point of the trigger pull. The apex trigger has a tiny bit of "stickyness" because it does have contact with the firing pin block throughout the takeup. Haven't shot a 1911 in a while but this is pretty close to what I can remember.
View attachment 94385
In your post you indicate that the sear assembly came with your trigger. Did you pay $149 for the trigger and the sear assembly or did you pay an additional cost for the sear assembly?
 

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Neat. Yep, I had to do a little "file work" on the trigger safety of both the Q5SF and the wife's Q4SF. Good news on the sear block, block.
 

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Hi Guys, first post here but I just want to share that I just got my dynamic trigger from Earl's today. I did a set screw mod already so I didn't install the new sear unit, but looking at the new included sear unit the sear overlap is certainly better than the stock sears but a little more contact and creep than I would usually use myself. I have an apex trigger and an overwatch precision trigger in my .45s so I can compare a bit.

For the fit, the Dynamic trigger is a better fit than the apex or the overwatch with less side to side wobble than either when installed. The Dynamic trigger breaks further forward than either the Apex or the Overwatch triggers. The overtravel and reset are both slightly longer compared to the Overwatch trigger, which is a bit longer than the Apex in both regards. The spring in the leaf safety is stiffer which means that I have to be conscious about how I pull or it may not disengage given the lighter ~3lb spring I'm using. I do like the appearance better than the Overwatch because the glossy black just didn't match well in my opinion.

Like the Overwatch trigger, the trigger bar doesn't hit the firing pin block until after the break. The Apex trigger is different in this regard because its always contacting the firing pin block and I believe it disengages slightly before the break. With my Overwatch trigger, once I did the set screw modification I noticed that my break had been moved back slightly which meant that I could feel the trigger bar hitting the firing pin block before the break. I filed down firing pin block to delay the disengagement and smooth out the takeup but the short overtravel made this slightly precarious because if I removed too much material the gun would not fire. With the Dynamic trigger this isn't a problem because the added overtravel gives more overhead for this modification. With these modifications both the Dynamic trigger and the Overwatch trigger have completely smooth takeup and no noticeable creep or sticking at any point of the trigger pull. The apex trigger has a tiny bit of "stickyness" because it does have contact with the firing pin block throughout the takeup. Haven't shot a 1911 in a while but this is pretty close to what I can remember.
View attachment 94385
Could you post a photo of the FPB mod (filed) made with the Overwatch trigger installed? Also, what do you mean by the comment With the Dynamic trigger this isn't a problem because the added overtravel gives more overhead for this modification? What is the exposed length of the set screw and what is the displacement of the single action bar made by the set screw?
 

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Could you post a photo of the FPB mod (filed) made with the Overwatch trigger installed? Also, what do you mean by the comment With the Dynamic trigger this isn't a problem because the added overtravel gives more overhead for this modification? What is the exposed length of the set screw and what is the displacement of the single action bar made by the set screw?
The total travel by the set screw is less than a millimeter. Here is a spare firing pin block:
IMG_0960.jpg

Here is the one modified for the Overwatch Tac trigger:
IMG_0961.jpg

On the stock trigger the pull actually feels like three stages. The first stage is when you can only feel the trigger bar spring, the second stage is when the resistance increases because the trigger bar hits the firing pin block, and the third stage is when the trigger bar hits the sear. The Overwatch trigger and the Dynamic trigger move the "second stage" to after the "third stage", meaning you don't actually feel it happen at all because it actually occurs after the sear disengages. However, if you do the set screw mod you get rid of .5mm of sear overlap and you move the break point of the trigger bar back about the same .5mm. This translates to about 2-3mm of the "second stage" returning to the trigger pull before the trigger breaks. If you file down the Firing Pin Block like I did above or if you file the trigger bar to prevent it from touching the Firing Pin Block until after the trigger breaks, what once was 2-2.5mm worth of trigger bar travel during the overtravel that was used to disengage the firing pin block is now 1.5-2mm because the overtravel distance has been reduced by the pre-setting of the sear. The Dynamic trigger has a longer overtravel compared to the Overwatch trigger which means that you have more overtravel trigger bar movement to work with before you accidentally file down the Firing Pin Block too much and the gun won't fire.

This all being said, I never used the Dynamic trigger with the stock unmodified firing pin block, so there is a chance that Walther designed their trigger to work perfectly with an unmodified firing pin block, but judging from how close the trigger break is to the point where the firing pin block engages, I think it does need some modification to avoid the problem described above.
 

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I received my new Dynamic trigger today and installed it into the Q5 SF Pro, I really like it. I didn't get the new trigger sheer module as I had already added the set screw and modified the reset with my plastic backstop. I had to adjust neither as the settings with the factor trigger worked perfect with the new trigger. I did have to file off a 45 deg relief notch on the trigger safety as I run a very low trigger spring combination and just a tad had to be removed, the trigger safety still works as designed so nothing was compromised. All safety interlocks work great and I have a 2.3 lb trigger pull. If fact is is almost identical to my Staccato XC trigger coming in a two lbs, clean crisp and very short with 1mm reset.

So if you already have the sheer modification installed no need for the extra money. Enjoy, if you can find some primers let me know.

Keithwhite100
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My Dynamic trigger and new sear block arrived today. I wasn't sure it was worth the $$ till I compared it to the Wife's Q4SF with the sprinco springs. I reused my light Sprinco trigger return spring. It's an amazing difference. I'd heard it's "close" to a 1911, and owning 9-1911's I was a skeptic. Well, it's correct. My Q5SF is now VERY close to a 1911 trigger. I called Earl and ordered the same for the Wife's Q4SF.
 

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One add to the above post. Like Keith White, I also had to remove just a tad, from the trigger safety. Less than I had to remove on both the originals, and it still works safely.
 

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I received my new trigger and sear housing,
polished the trigger bar and installed the units.
I am very impressed and well worth the money.
I am averaging 3.3 pds for a trigger pull, a nice crisp trigger pull.
 

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I received my new trigger and sear housing,
polished the trigger bar and installed the units.
I am very impressed and well worth the money.
I am averaging 3.3 pds for a trigger pull, a nice crisp trigger pull.
I'll have to check my trigger pull later tonight. I was close to 3lbs, best I could measure with the OEM trigger and Sprinco springs. It was difficult to measure because of the excess takeup and grit. My competition 1911's are about 2.5lbs, and it doesn't feel that light, but the travel and reset....wow!
 
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