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I was at Menard's tonight and thought, "hey, why not try these for a trigger spring and see if one works".

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/fasteners-fastener-accessories/fastener-kits/sontax-200-piece-spring-assortment/p-1444421806881.htm
The cost is $6.99 and there's 200 springs, 10 of each size.

I used the smallest one 13/64" X 13/16", turned the end coils toward the center and clipped one end, so it looks just like the original. I installed it and immediately, I could tell a difference. Checked it with my trigger gauge and it dropped the pull from around 5.5 to 4.7 and for some reason, a lot smoother.
I have pulled the trigger a few hundred times and it's still in place, working just fine. Looks like we now have an inexpensive source, for a slightly lighter pull.

Spent a couple of hours polishing and lubing the trigger bar, that I didn't get the first time. No gritty feeling at all now.
 

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I have a PPQ Q5 and a PPQ 5 inch. both with the light return spring however only the Q5 is polished and it makes a huge difference for trigger pull smoothness
 

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I have a PPQ Q5 and a PPQ 5 inch. both with the light return spring however only the Q5 is polished and it makes a huge difference for trigger pull smoothness
I'm gonna have to do that because my Q5 is awful.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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I was using a 30 year old trigger pull tester and felt is wasn't reading right. Seemed like the pull was lighter than what it said. I went out today and bought a Wheeler digital and it shows my Q5 at 4lbs every time, not 4.7 or so, like the older gauge read.
 

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Thanks for the info gents! New forum member and I was going to ask about trigger work, then I ran into this thread! We all think alike.

My Q5 has a good trigger but I want a superb trigger. Springs are on order.

FWIW, my hand size and USPSA won't allow the Apex trigger in Carry Optics so I'll just use what I can.
 

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I just installed the TRS (and only the TRS) and the trigger is quite good now. It demands that the trigger finger be placed a bit lower on the trigger itself otherwise the trigger safety won't disengage. But at this time I'm not going to change the other spring.
 

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You'll never know what you're missing unless you try it. Its soooooo easy to replace....and if its too smooth/light for your liking, you can swap the stock spring back in, in about 2 minutes.
 

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Does anyone know of a detail strip and reassembly guide that doesn't use Photobucket for the pictures?

Heck, I don't even know what the "FPB" is or where it is. Spring is on order though. Another $40, but I spent far more than that on my M&P and the trigger isn't as good as the Q5.
 

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Walther calls it a firing pin safety....I, and many others refer to it as a firing pin block, simply because that's what it does.

Do this.....safety check the pistol....no ammo in mag or chamber (I had to say that). Remove the magazine, turn pistol upside down, pointing away from you, shine a flashlight down the empty mag hole, (again, NO ammo in the chamber). Now with the flashlight shinining down the hole gently/slowly pull the trigger to the rear....you can see exactly when the tab on the trigger bar makes contact with the ramp on the FPB....you'll also feel an increase in pressure/trigger pull. We've just identified what and where the FPB is. And the light bulb should come on in regards to the little spring used underneath the FPB....a lighter FPB spring will result in a lighter as well as a smoother trigger pull......it'll make x-Navy guys $&^% in their flat hat. Of course the above results only apply to the Sodemann springs I've used and recommend....should you use anything other than those springs, I can't guarantee nuttin'. And to give credit where credit is due, Lanzer did all the initial research and located the TRS springs....I did the research on the FPB springs. I've stuck with the Sodemann springs with excellent results.

Removing/replacing the FPB spring is a piece-o-cake. You'll need to remove the extractor, or at least push the pin down and let the extractor pop out a little....just enough to release the FPB. The FPB won't pop out of the hole just yet, as the striker is also making contact with the FPB. With the extractor pivoted out, or removed, you can either remove the striker (which will release the FPB and it WILL pop outta the hole, along with the spring...sometimes never to be found again) or you can use you thumb to push the striker back about 1/16 to 1/8 inch and that'll also release the FPB....just keep a thumb over the striker so it doesn't pop completely outta the hole.

This proceedure applies to all Q's with serial number above FCA 0001. All Q's prior to that are the older style and as soon as you pivot the extractor out it'll release the FPB and vroooommmmm, off it goes.

Put back together in reverse order.

Here ya go.....this may help http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/faq-ppq/20739-disassembly-ppq-step-step.html and this http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/faq-ppq/20605-ppq-complete-disassembly-video-series.html
 

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Thanks. I'll flip it over and check it out later tonight. But I think I have the mechanism already figured out and where the spring goes. Yup. I'm using the S' springs that you 2 gents figured out. Thanks for that.

My Q5 is for playing games so a light trigger doesn't bother me. I get DQ'ed if I don't have finger discipline (FD) and I've had FD for decades now (ex 1911 shooter with the attendant excellent trigger). It's an auto pilot function that I don't even need to think about. Next time I have the slide off I might smooth things out a bit for that last bit of trigger excellence.
 

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I'll flip it over and check it out later tonight. But I think I have the mechanism already figured out and where the spring goes. Yup. I'm using the S' springs that you 2 gents figured out.
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The exercise I described earlier was two-fold. 1) To help identify the FPB. 2) To get you to feel and realize that as soon as the tab on the trigger bar touches the ramp on the FPB and starts to compress the FPB, you'll feel an increase in the trigger pull.

It goes without saying that using a lighter spring under the FPB will also lighten the trigger pull. And, an added benefit is it'll also make the pull smoother, due to less tention/friction between the tab on the trigger bar and the FPB and in addition, the area of the trigger bar where the trigger bar guide rubs/guides.

You need to ensure that the area of the trigger bar where the trigger bar guide rubs is clear of any roughness/burrs AND it MUST be lubed. If you'll just do those few things you'll be a happy camper.

In the picture below, the red arrow points to the nub on the trigger bar guide that rubs/guides the trigger bar. The blue oval is the area on the trigger bar that needs to be free of any burrs and LUBED. A lot of people forget to lube this area and if you run it dry, you'll think you have a crappy trigger.

 

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I haven't measured the new trigger pull but the TRS lightened it up the most and yes, the FPB spring did make it better. I just wish I had read the entire thread before ordering JUST the TRS. I could have saved some $.

I didn't need to smooth anything.

But it's a better trigger than the much more expensive M&P trigger and it's not as mushy. The Q5 is much crisper and lighter. The trigger is down to 3# 1oz as tested by the hanging weight method. But my trigger finger tells me it's lighter. Probably because my trigger finger is lower on the trigger.

It was incredibly easy to do all of the work. Not at all like the M&P.

OK, the only thing this is missing is a trigger stop. I think I might have seen something about an internal mod by Lanzer, but can I find it now? No. Can anyone help? TIA
 

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BJK, Lanzer did a mod that removes some of the 'creep'...its not an 'over travel' stop. Here's a link to that thread http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/ppq/50009-ppq-adjustable-creep-conversion-guide.html

You're right the lighter TRS spring gives you the most bang for the buck....probably 75%. The lighter FPB spring makes it even better....maybe an additional 20%. All the polishing might add another 5%....maybe.

You asked about the Sig P226 mag mod....I responded....did you read?
 

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Whoever is reading this thread, please understand that when you change one internal part on this pistol, it is no longer a PPQ. All of the testing that was done, by Walther, to ensure reliability, durability, and (most importantly) safety, no longer mean anything at all in regards to YOUR pistol.

Canik just recently issued a recall on their TP9 pistols, where the fix is simply changing springs. The Canik pistols are pretty much clones of the P99 and PPQ pistols internally. Look at the pictures of the internals of the frame and slide on this link, and tell me if they look familiar. Simply changing springs can make this pistol safe, or unsafe. I see no reason to believe that this would not also be true of the Walther.

http://cdn0.thetruthaboutguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Canik-stripped.jpg

Not only is there a known recall on a pistol that directly copied the internals of these Walther pistols, with the fix being a change in spring rates, but there is also the fact that it was found that an impact on the back of the slide can result in the striker being released:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?26913-Return-of-Mallet-Mallet-vs-PPQ

Now I ask this, who here has tested the pistol's ability to remain inherently drop safe with these aftermarket springs? How do you know that a simple drop will not discharge a round? Even Sig, a well known manufacturer, managed to screw this up with the P320. Do you really believe a "backyard gunsmith" is going to test this at all, much less to the same standards as firearm manufacturers? You guys are playing with fire.

If people can suggest performing actions that anyone who puts 2 plus 2 together can see would be dangerous, then I most certainly can suggest this:

DO NOT ALTER OR REPLACE THE FIRING PIN BLOCK SPRING!!!

If you do, YOU are responsible for the results. If the pistol discharges from being dropped, or from YOU falling with the pistol on your waist, it is YOUR fault. YOU chose to replace that spring when it was shown to you that it could very realistically be very dangerous to do so. YOU are responsible for any harm or death that may come to whoever is within range of your pistol. YOU are responsible for any damage to property that is within range of your pistol. YOU are responsible for any charges filed against you...

...and all for what? You guys are consciously and directly, negatively effecting the inherent safety of your pistols, trying to get an only slightly better trigger out of the polymer striker fired pistol that is known to have the best trigger available on polymer striker fired pistols. I'm really at a loss trying to figure out what you guys are trying to get out of these pistols. Even if you could provide times on a timer and targets that showed improvement, which I doubt, it still wouldn't even remotely be worth the risk.

Please, stop.
 

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Noted balance.

This gun sure is sweet now! It was good before, but much better now. I sighted the red dot in today and my final 25 yd group, handheld but shot from a rest, was so small that if I told you how small it was folks might not believe me. This gun is a shooter. I was shooting the 160 gr reloads that I worked up for the M&P. I did have 2 jams so I need to case gauge the ammo better. It appears the Q5 has a tighter chamber (or something) than the Apex barrel I have in the M&P.
 
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