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Well, luber er' up. After my redneck 'sandpaper' polish job, I give it a good blow job with my air compressor and a little drop of lube on all the friction surfaces...the most important being the area where the trigger bar guide rubes on the trigger bar.

And I can tell ya' from experience', going to a lighter FPB spring will further reduce and smooth the take up, without effecting the break.
 

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...the most important being the area where the trigger bar guide rubes on the trigger bar. And I can tell ya' from experience', going to a lighter FPB spring will further reduce and smooth the take up, without effecting the break.
Oldfart.....just to be sure I am onboard with part identification....would you provide a photo of the "trigger bar guide" because I have 3 locations where the trigger bar makes direct contact with another surface.

There is a "phenomenon" that occurs when you reduce trigger pull to or below a certain level. When pulling the trigger it is possible to apply pressure either laterally or simply too quickly to the trigger resulting in the trigger safety moving too slow to allow the trigger to complete its full rearward motion. You have to release the trigger a bit and re-pull. That was also verified when a competition shooter shooting next to me attempted to pull the trigger while examining the PPQ.
 

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Yep, just lube any areas where there's any contact. Here's one that many people seem to miss, and will probably do more to induce a feeling of grit (lack of lubrication) and slick as a babies butt (lubed).

That little 'nub' on the trigger bar guide (part 32.8), slides along the top of the trigger bar. Gotta make sure the 'top' surface of the trigger bar is 'smooth' in that area and has a drop of lube.



 

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That little 'nub' on the trigger bar guide (part 32.8), slides along the top of the trigger bar. Gotta make sure the 'top' surface of the trigger bar is 'smooth' in that area and has a drop of lube.
See....that's why I asked. If you look at my 3 photos (post #124) where I was describing what I sanded smooth I use the term trigger bar guide for the location just to the left of the trigger spring.....obviously did not reference the parts diagram!). There are actually 4 or perhaps 5 locations from the trigger safety to the sear where contact is made.
 

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Well, add my PPQ 5" 9 to the 3.5 club. Just got the TRS that lanzer listed from McMaster-Carr & installed it. I had already polished the trigger bar and cut a couple coils off the FPB spring, so before this new TRS, I was at 4.7 lbs. The new TRS dropped it to 3.6 lbs.(close enough) BTW, this gun is strictly a range gun for now. Man, I like the pull now. Can't wait to shoot it.
lanzer, and all the rest who helped in this thread......... a BIG thanks !!
lanzer, you saved me hours of researching springs. Thanks again.
 

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Need help- not quite there yet.

I recently picked up a new PPQ M2 9mm and really like it. I just installed The McMaster Carr trigger return spring which more than took care of any weight pull issue in the trigger take up. I also polished the top of the trigger bar, and tip of trigger guide in the areas red dot hightlighted in Oldfart's post #143 with 400 grit, followed by 600 grit. The takeup is definately lighter, but still feels somewhat "gravelly"- not what I would call smooth. Question for the experts--is there an area I failed to polish that could improve this situation? I notice this gravelly feel when then firing pin is cocked or uncocked, but not when pulling the trigger when the slide/upper assembly is off. Your comments would be appreciated.

Thanks, Bill
 

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Did you provide a drop of lube to the various contact areas......specifically where the trigger bar guide rubs on the trigger bar, as well as lubing the FPB? In addition, did you use compressed air to blow out the pistol, after the sandpaper smoothing job?

To help isolate the issue, you could remove the FPB and spring, reassemble the pistol, without FPB and try the trigger.
 

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I lubed and cleaned everything thoroughly, including the external areas of the firing pin block. What is the procedure to remove the firing pin block?
 

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I am certain that "oldfart's" 2 parts photos are just part of what he polished with sandpaper. I experienced the same gritty feel until I went after the additional areas shown in these 3 photos. The trigger safety bar was contacting the bar on the right side, the small plastic vertical spacer located to the rear of the trigger bar and finally the trigger bar guide located immediately to the left of the trigger release spring. To get to the plastic spacer I had to cut strips of sandpaper about 1/4" wide and slip them down at an angle into and through the magazine well so I could use a sawing action to smooth that surface. Used a similar approach for the guide bar next to the trigger release spring. Be sure to blow all areas including the areas around the sear to be sure no fine dust is lodged in there.
 

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Even after I did everything possible to my Q5, to get totally rid of the gravel, gritty feeling, I ended up sending the gun back to Walther and they sent me a new one. It must have been irreparable, for them to do that. Before I sent it back to them, I made some strides by polishing, cleaning and lubing all pertinent spots, including the FP block, but not nearly enough.
 

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chandler,

Did these additional areas feel rough even when the upper slide/barrel assembly was off? As stated before, mine feels fine until I get the upper assembly on.
 

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Yes those areas were creating resistance and a gritty feel while the slide was off. That's how I was able to identify where the resistance was as I worked one area at a time. When my slide is in place I still have a very smooth feel. The one area that could impede and cause resistance when the slide is on is the striker safety and that could be the plunger and/or plunger spring or what I labeled as the "FPB Controller" as it moves across the plunger. I noticed that the plunger spring was very stiff and was difficult to compress when I disassembled that area. In fact I recall thinking that could cause drag when the trigger was pulled so I spent some time cleaning the cavity where the spring goes and working the spring manually to get more flexibility in it before reassembling. Whether that helped or did nothing I have no way of knowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
WS62, have you tried pulling the trigger with the slide removed?

If the trigger is not gritty, then it's probably the FPB that's causing you problem.
If the trigger is gritty, then try pushing the trigger bar down slightly (about 1/8") as you pull the trigger.

If grittiness is gone the moment you push the trigger bar down, then you'll just need to polish and lube the trigger bar where it comes into contact with the sear block.
If grittiness is still there, then it could be the trigger rubbing against the frame, or the contact between the trigger bar and the frame is causing you problem.

Hopefully you'll be able to locate what's causing you the issue. Good luck!
 

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Thanks Lanzer.

I was fiddling around with it again last night and it appears to be a FPB issue. Should I try to do some polishing on the top of the trigger bar tab only? Or do you think the FPB would need polishing as well? I plan to mark the contact areas with a permanent black marker, and work the trigger a bit to confirm the recent contact areas that may need polishing. Would have done this yesterday but my son is home on leave.
 

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Should I try to do some polishing on the top of the trigger bar tab only? Or do you think the FPB would need polishing as well?
I know you asked lanzer and he will respond. Personally, I would not touch the striker safety itself. It's one thing to have a 3.5lb trigger and carry but playing with the striker safety and carrying could be introducing a bit too much risk. As always.....you know the risks and how you intend to use it so that's your call.
 

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WS62,
In my case, after I got all grittiness out with the slide removed (as mentioned above), I focused on getting the FPB plunger to depress smoothly with some light pressure rearward on the raised part of the plunger while pushing down against the spring. If you can get the plunger to depress smoothly with that rearward pressure on the raised part, you'll probably get the smooth trigger you want. I had good results with powdered graphite sprinkled on & around the plunger, but being dry, it didn't last too long. I'm having better results mixing some graphite with TW25B grease. Every time I put any kind of oil on the FPB or fin of the trigger bar, it got worse.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

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Bingo!

I additionally polished the 2 upright lobes on the trigger bar and what an improvement! I'm sure by the the smooth take up I have now that the most critical areas have been hit.

blackhillsken- I will work the FPB a little more like you said, but overall I'm very happy with what I have--light years ahead of what I started with.

All good comments and advice--thanks for the input everyone!
 
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