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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've had a few friends asking how they can mod their PPQ to have a 3.5lb trigger, so I've ordered a few springs and found one that gave me exactly that.

The spring's info is:
length: 0.75" (19mm)
outer diameter: 0.180" (4.57mm)
wire thickness: 0.020" (0.51mm)

Much more time was spent finding a place that would ship only one spring instead of 500. :)

I've made a spreadsheet showing all the options:
Retail outlets for purchasing springs

I bought my spring through here, but they had since raised shipping and added a minimum order requirement.
Link to Sodemann Springs

This mod can be performed in minutes with only the slide removed. For those who wish to see more pictures, I've also put together a small guide:
https://lanzerbot.wordpress.com/2016/02/13/ppq-trigger-mod-to-3-5-pound/

Enjoy!
 

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Lanzer.....thank you, thank you, thank you. My springs came in today. I put one in my PPQ 5" with the Apex trigger. Holy sheet batman.... I am soooooooooooooooo happy. I put the trigger gauge on it and every pull was sub 3 lb. Best I could tell, the average was 2.75......and THAT's with NO polishing of ANY parts.

The only other mod I did was clip a few coils off the FPB spring, but that only effects the pull going back until you hit the wall....once at the wall the FPB is fully depressed anyway.

Edit: BTW, I replaced that spring without removing the sear housing from the frame. Made myself a little hook to hook the rear of the spring and pull it off the trigger bar (similar to a tool I've used when doing brake jobs on my 52 Chevy). Getting the front to come loose was a little puzzling, until I rotated the spring, counter clockwise a little bit and that puppy rolled out of the groove and then I just slipped it right outta there. Put the new one in the same way....hooked the front first....super easy, then used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the spring back and hook the rear loop around the rear of the trigger bar. Piece-0-cake. I DID have to use a little sharpened wooden dowel to hold the rear of the trigger bar UP while I was trying to attach the spring. Otherwise the end of the bar wanted to fall down in the housing.
 

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Just an update to the above. This morning, I replace the striker spring with a 6 lb. 'Glock' striker spring. I was looking for improvements in 2 areas....and this little switch helped in both cases. First, I was wondering if I'd be able to realize any noticeable difference (lighter) in trigger pull. Second, I was mulling around the relationship of the recoil spring and the striker spring (especially when the striker is cocked). I was wondering if a lighter striker spring would result in more pressure being applied to the slide....keeping it in battery....theory says yes.....but would it be measurable.

I'm, happy to say, that the results were what I expected. The trigger pull, which I measured multiple times yesterday at 2.75 lbs. dropped to 2.5 lbs (checked it multiple times). The 'in battery' pressure was also increased, as I've put together a method to allow me to use a digital scale to measure the pressure on the slide when in battery. Or said another way, how much pressure is required to move the slide 1/8" rearward.

I'll be going to the range today or tomorrow to run this puppy to check for proper operation.
 

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^^^ This ^^^

In my trials of changing the trigger return spring on my PPQ, I found that I could indeed decrease the weight of the trigger tremendously, but the speed of the trigger reset was unacceptably slow. I'd like to hear ima's experience after tomorrow's range visit.
 

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Evening imaoldfart;

A Glock OEM (5.5#) firing pin spring won't pass my hard-primer overnight freezer test in either of my PPQ's or my P-99.

A 6# Wolff Glock firing pin spring will just meet my hard-primer overnight freezer test.

In my spring tests using my homemade spring tester a nominal Glock 5.5# (silver) spring falls in @ about 5.75# compared to a Wolff 5.5# & a Wolff 6# spring.

A good firing pin spring test is to shoot some European 9mm NATO rounds. If it will fire those off on a very cold morning then you should be good to go.
 

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Evening guys. Good questions as well as input on the lighter striker spring and hard primers.

Its been a busy day....going to the range and looking after one of my doggies following dental surgery. However, I can answer the question about the reset while using the new "Lanzer" identified lighter trigger return spring. You've got to remember that I'm using this lighter spring with an Apex trigger. The Apex trigger in itself is awesome.... and eliminates quite a bit of pretravel as well as over travel. Reset is just as short, if not less, than the stock PPQ trigger. I just now went back, pulled out a stock PPQ and the modded PPQ and fingered the triggers....I swear, the reset on the modded pistol seems shorter to me. Double taps and shooting from reset are almost too easy.

I was pressed for time today and only put 100 rounds thru the modded 5" Q. Flawless....absolutely flawless. Keep in mind this is a target shooting gun, not a home defense gun.

And if I have any trouble with hard primers, I can always put the stock striker spring back in.

I'm just playing and testing.....love to tinker.
 

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...

(similar to a tool I've used when doing brake jobs on my 52 Chevy). ...
Ah, what memories. My first car. A Fastback for $150. She came from Florida, where some sailor had burned the valves by running it with stolen avgas. I became very familiar with this model: I had to rebuild EVERYTHING on it, including the Powerglide, twice. The Blue Goddess saw me through undergraduate school, 54 years ago. I kinda wish I had her back.

M

P.S. Anyone who thinks he'll get a free lunch by switching out springs from a different pistol to achieve a 3.5 pound trigger pull in a PPQ is cruising for trouble, and probably will find it.
 

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...

A Glock OEM (5.5#) firing pin spring won't pass my hard-primer overnight freezer test in either of my PPQ's or my P-99.

A 6# Wolff Glock firing pin spring will just meet my hard-primer overnight freezer test.

...
A good firing pin spring test is to shoot some European 9mm NATO rounds. If it will fire those off on a very cold morning then you should be good to go.
Unfortunately temperature and primer cup hardness are only two of the variables. Equally important, and equally variable, are a bunch of others: primer composition sensitivity, chamber size, chamber fouling, cartridge case size, headspace, firing pin friction (i.e., dirt), and many others that don't instantly spring to mind. An experienced, smart designer will leave a comfortable margin for reliability under all conditions-- not just overnight in a freezer.

M

P.S. I just thought of two more: firing pin protrusion, and firing pin tip shape.
 

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Morning Mike

Most of those things you mention should show up in a hard primer overnight freezer test.

I have done hundreds of firing pin spring reliability tests & if I can get a gun to pass my overnight freezer test I have had ZERO reliability issues in firing normal pistol rounds.

But reducing firing pin load or rate isn't for everyone as it does take thorough testing & lots of follow up rounds under varied conditions to assure ignition reliability under all usage conditions.

It's also a good idea to replace the lighter firing pin springs on a regular basis to assure peak performance as lighter firing pin springs don't have the over-kill safety margin designed into factory springs.

Substituting gun springs isn't for everyone but those that have the ability to properly test & evaluate can find some gain there.

A single gun/single person has an advantage over the factory as the factory has to overspring all it's guns in a series to cover even the worst stack-up of parts & tolerances but a single gun/single person can re-spring & test their sample of one to achieve total reliability of just their one gun.
 

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Mildot22: I don't quarrel with anything you've said. I just think that by the time one is done with all the necessary testing to cover all the variables, the flame is not worth the candle.

And if you change ammo, you need to start over again.

M
 

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Mildot22: I don't quarrel with anything you've said. I just think that by the time one is done with all the necessary testing to cover all the variables,
the flame is not worth the candle.

And if you change ammo, you need to start over again.

Morning Mike

There is a lot of truth in that statement.

Something like the basic PPQ is probably not worth the bother as those come with a low poundage nice trigger pull from the factory. (One of my present PPQ's came factory fresh with a lower poundage trigger pull than I like)

On the other hand a P-99 with a QA 9# trigger can REALLY be helped with a Wolff 6# Glock firing pin spring.

Same with some Glocks that come with 7-8# (actual) trigger pulls on factory rated 5.5# Glocks. If a Glock internals are slicked up they can easily & safely use a lower poundage firing pin spring with total reliability.

As I mentioned above it isn't for everybody & does take some testing & validation but the end results can be quite pleasing if a person has the ability & time to FULLY test & validate the spring change.
 

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Call me crazy, but I want to go the other direction with trigger pull on a PPQ. I am more familiar with the heavier long pull and long reset of a Kahr since I front pocket carry. I just ordered a new PPQ that I may occasionally want to holster carry IWB or at least OWB, and I am concerned with the light pull as well as the very short reset. I don't want any unintended double taps. So what would be necessary to increase the pull as well as the reset?
 

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Probably you could substitute a stronger spring (akin to the "NYPD Glock") but the reset distance is mechanical, and I don't believe there is much one can do about changing it.

If you're uncomfortable with the PPQ's trigger characteristics, use the gun for range entertainment and carry something else.

M
 

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Call me crazy, but I want to go the other direction with trigger pull on a PPQ. I am more familiar with the heavier long pull and long reset of a Kahr since I front pocket carry. I just ordered a new PPQ that I may occasionally want to holster carry IWB or at least OWB, and I am concerned with the light pull as well as the very short reset. I don't want any unintended double taps. So what would be necessary to increase the pull as well as the reset?
You are not crazy. However, I am sure you can increase the pull, but you will not be able to change the fact that the gun is FULLY cocked, meaning you are relying on a part engagement to keep it from firing. Many people consider that insufficient for a carry gun.

For this reason I would never carry the PPQ. I carry the P99 in decocked configuration. Glocks, and other similar guns don't have fully cocked strikers, and thus are much safer.

And making that already dangerous trigger even more so by making it lighter? Well, everyone is entitled to his ways.

To me the PPQ is just a range gun, maybe a home defense one, but not a carry piece.
 

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PPQ's are all I carry. Just got back from running some errands.....sitting here with one of my PPQ M1 9mm's still riding at 2 O'clockish IWB. Its just soooo comfortable, I don't want to take it off.

My range toy is my latest PPQ M2 5" in 40 S&W. Apex trigger, reduced tension TRS, 6 lb. striker spring, Sprinco rsa, Dawson FO sights, .125 rear, .125 front. All of this resulting in a 2.5 lb trigger..... ME LIKES. Reminds me of my CZ-75 Champion....with sub 2.5 lb. trigger....THAT pistol is AWESOME.

Dangerous???? Cut me a break.
 

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PPQ's are all I carry. Just got back from running some errands.....
Dangerous???? Cut me a break.
I am glad, and hope nothing ever happens to you, but I am sure you realize that this proves exactly nothing?

Yes, it IS dangerous. It is like sitting under a sword, hanging on a flimsy nail.

It might hold... it might not.
 
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