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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I need the name of a Walther Gunsmith who can install a cocking piece/sear in a stainless Ranger/Black Creek Walther PPK. I will also need the new cocking piece/sear.
Thank you, PDN
 

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Here is the phone number of a gunsmith I use in Sparta Tennessee.
His name is Olof Fornehed. He has done work for me on post war Walther PP. 931 212-9631. Give him a call. He is also a collector of WII German fire arms.


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I second m&m gunsmithing. My Interarms ppk is currently at his shop right now. DO NOT send it to walther. I made that mistake the first time. It's taking a little longer than the 3-4 weeks he told me, but I did send it out just before Thanksgiving and now here comes Christmas.
 

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Why is a replacement needed? Worn out SA notch, or sloppy key-holed in the frame & pins relationship that is not catching the hammer nose on the SA notch?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The cocking piece has a projection/shelf/lip/groove across the the entire length of it. This is what the toe of the hammer engages with to maintain full cock. This entire area broke off of the cocking piece, when I removed the grips, this lip or whatever, fell into my hand. Works great double action only, the hammer cannot remain cocked as the hammer now has no contact with the sear.
 

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Got it. The metal of the cocking piece is very hard. Not sure of the Rockwell rating. Had to fit a couple over the years and was tough to file the back end so it rotated up higher to clear the hammer nose. The harder a metal is, the more brittle it is.
 

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My west German made post war pp .32 just today at the range would fire and the hammer would fall back to double action more times than not. Unloaded i would cycle the slide and the hammer would stay back cocked single action. There is no push off for the hammer at all. At first I thought the slide was not going back far enough to cock the hammer but i find that impossible since feeding and extracting was flawless. I used aquila ammo which I don't think is the problem. Could it be the decocker safety problem? Any input will be appreciated.
 

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Weak (or incorrect) hammer block spring.

M



P.S. What nobody ever reads: https://www.waltherforums.com/forum/faq-pp-tp/21428-when-hammer-won-t-stay-cocked.html

thanks for the tip. I think after the Christmas Holiday I'm going to send it to the Alabama gunsmith mentioned here. I also noticed that twice in 100 rounds the safety/de-cocker was partially moved down during the firing sequence. not enough to de-cock the hammer but clear enough that it wasn't parallel to the ground. in an 8 round string the hammer would fire in S/A mode maybe twice, sometimes thrice.
 

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Sorry, I don't understand. What does that mean?

M
the magazine holds 8 rounds. during that string of fire (8 rounds) only 2 or 3 times would the hammer stay back in Single Action for subsequent firing. Usually it [the hammer] would follow the slide forward and fire in Double Action.
 

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The hammer block spring will push the hammer block back down onto the cocking piece to help in engaging the hammer nose to the cocking piece. Try this easy to replace and inexpensive part before having more expensive elaborate work done on your pistol.
Also, while the spring & retaining cap/plunger is off, make sure the block is free to move in it's channel. Could be full of gunk or a burr that has to be cleared off.
This is a small, but vital part of the design.
 

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The hammer block spring will push the hammer block back down onto the cocking piece to help in engaging the hammer nose to the cocking piece. Try this easy to replace and inexpensive part before having more expensive elaborate work done on your pistol.
Also, while the spring & retaining cap/plunger is off, make sure the block is free to move in it's channel. Could be full of gunk or a burr that has to be cleared off.
This is a small, but vital part of the design.
any special tools needed for this parts replacement? also, can it be done without having to disassemble the pistol other than field stripping? as in do I have to take apart other parts of the gun to access this part?
 

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...the hammer block spring is the culprit? I want to gain the understanding as to how this part/assembly doesn't always hold the hammer in the cocked position during firing but does when the hammer is manually cocked?
The hammer block spring is the only spring that directly and positively powers the cocking piece, and pushes it into a position to securely re-engage the hammer nose when the gun cycles. The slide and hammer will recoil fully rearward in about 1/50th of a second. Even a weak spring has plenty of time when you cycle it by hand; not so much in actual firing.

M
 
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