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I have a normal PPK .380 with no threading or anything like that. Now how would I go about attaching a suppressor to it? Id prefer not having any major work done to it, as well as it not being a permanent attachment.

Thanks for the help
 

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There are a couple of options: have the existing barrel threaded so that an adaptor can be attached, or have the existing barrel replaced with a PP barrel, then have it threaded. Most people that suppress a blow back .380 acp pistol are not too satisfied with the overall results. The best PP series pistol to put a silencer on is a .22 caliber model.
 

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There are a couple of options: have the existing barrel threaded so that an adaptor can be attached, or have the existing barrel replaced with a PP barrel, then have it threaded. Most people that suppress a blow back .380 acp pistol are not too satisfied with the overall results. The best PP series pistol to put a silencer on is a .22 caliber model.
Rick, I'm having trouble picturing how there would be enough length to thread to any useful purpose with the original barrel. Is it necessary to mill off some of the slide? Explain a little more if you would.
Moon
 

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halfmoonclip,
The original barrel is threaded inward (inside the slide). Subsequently, an adaptor is used to thread onto the barrel. The other end of the adaptor has been threaded to accept the silencer. Adco Firearms or Tornado Tech can do this type of mount. When the adaptor is removed, a thread protector is placed over the original barrel. This type of threading is known as a phantom mount.
 

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halfmoonclip,
The original barrel is threaded inward (inside the slide). Subsequently, an adaptor is used to thread onto the barrel. The other end of the adaptor has been threaded to accept the silencer. Adco Firearms or Tornado Tech can do this type of mount. When the adaptor is removed, a thread protector is placed over the original barrel. This type of threading is known as a phantom mount.
Thanks Rick. Some good information. I've been considering doing something like. I wouldn't mind having suppressor ready barrel made for one of my PP's in .22lr. How about a barrel that could be switched out though? I'd want to keep the original barrel. I like my Walthers unaltered. I don't think that would be an issue as opposed to altering the original barrel. ~J
 

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jujonte,
with a PP series Walther it is not possible to have a barrel that would keep getting switched out. The only time the barrel should be removed is for replacement (such as a damaged barrel, or installing one that is threaded). If you decide to go with a .22 caliber suppressor, there are a multitude of good quality ones available.
 

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The only thing I can add is that .380 ACP (9x17mm/9mm kurz) is a relatively weak round as it is. Subsonic rounds that would be used with a suppressor are even weaker.

I don't know if it would have enough "OOMF" to cycle the action if you put a suppressor on it. But don't quote me on that one.

If you get it to work, then I sincerely applaud you, and would like to hear how it works out for you.
 

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halfmoonclip,
The original barrel is threaded inward (inside the slide). Subsequently, an adaptor is used to thread onto the barrel. The other end of the adaptor has been threaded to accept the silencer. Adco Firearms or Tornado Tech can do this type of mount. When the adaptor is removed, a thread protector is placed over the original barrel. This type of threading is known as a phantom mount.
I presume that the front of the slide has to have its opening milled larger, or the barrel stepped down to allow the adapter to fit? Pretty clever solution, and no doubt more cost effective than replacing the barrel.
Adco is great to work with; they've turned AR barrels and perm'd a flashider for me.
Thanks,
Moon
 

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jujonte,
with a PP series Walther it is not possible to have a barrel that would keep getting switched out. The only time the barrel should be removed is for replacement (such as a damaged barrel, or installing one that is threaded). If you decide to go with a .22 caliber suppressor, there are a multitude of good quality ones available.

I see now Rick. That makes sense. I gave one of my PPK's a look over and switching the barrel on a regular basis would not be a good idea. Seems like there are a number of better options as well. Thanks ~J
 

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Wait!!!

If you mill out part of the front of the slide, won't that pose a problem or even compromise the "bushing" action of that front gap that the barrel protrudes through??

Unless you are going to use your mounted suppressor as that "bushing"... I am still a little confused on this one.
 

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Oh Suhweet Deal!!!!!! Nice looking TP you have.

The threaded barrel makes for a nice touch!!

Since you threaded in the inside of the barrel, does it affect your shooting or handling of the pistol in any way??
 

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It's not mine....wish it was! I pulled the photo from Tornado Technology's website. The do excellent work.....
 

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Here's a TPH with the threaded adaptor attached.



The INSIDE of the barrel is threaded which does not in have any influence on the slide.
I'm assuming you mean the outside of the barrel inside the front face of the slide...be pretty tough to thread the inside of a .22 barrel. Also, the thread protector, which has to go on the same threads, has far too large a hole to thread down inside the barrel itself. I think I understand; the end of the barrel was turned down and threaded, and the sleeve that threads on the barrel has the same outside diameter as the original barrel.
As BF88 noted, just milling off the end of the slide would make its own problems; if the barrel extension was larger in diameter than the original barrel, then the barrel hole at the end of the slide would have to be enlarged.
Think I understand now; nice pic, PDX. I'm with you; wish I owned it!
Moon
 

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Moony hit it square on the head. Thread protector has INTERNAL threads... Hard to mate internal to internal...

On this TP, the slide is still intact, so OD of barrel was threaded. Root diameter of fine threads allows for shallow threading, whilst minimizing material removal on the barrel itself. Fascinating!!
 

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Yeh, bump it once and ream it a new one.

The result is a toy, not a serious gun, and it will last about as long as the average child's toy. There just isn't enough steel there.

M
 

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Ehhhhhhhh, you'd be surprised. I am willing to bed the depth of thread is about 1/2" on 1/2" or 12.5mm fine threads, and fine threads are mighty strong for how shallow the root diameter is.

As long as you don't give it the "Jeremy Clarkson" treatment and hit it with a hammer in a recreational manner, you should be fine. Granted, yes, it is just a .22lr caliber. They are still fun. My Mark II is still a riot even though it probably couldn't put a dent in a piece of paper over 25 yards away.... In other words....
 
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