[Mr. PPK/S]

As the title suggests, I believe my rear sight screw on my PPK/S is stuck. Its a headless screw and I’ve used both the hex wrench provided with the gun and my own set and nothing seems to turn it.

Should I continue to mess with it? Should I use oil to loosen it up, or should I just play it safe and take to a gunsmith?

Any advice would be much appreciated!

 

[halfmoonclip]

Rear sight screw on a PPK/s? Not sure we are all playing on the same page here.
Tell us more.
Moon

 

[Martin]

It's a conical dovetail used on a PP(K/S). Direction is left to right (in) or reverse (out).

 

[halfmoonclip]

Martin, I'll assume (as you have) that we're talking a drift adjustable sight; no screw involved. Left in is the norm on such things.
Moon

 

[Mr. PPK/S]

Yes, at least, to my knowledge its a headless screw. The manual states that in order to adjust it one must “loosen the headless screw” and then points to the rear sight.

To that end, I have attempted to do so, but it will not budge. I am afraid that I am both lacking in the knowledge and finesse in this particular matter! I don’t want to continue further without proper advice, out of fear I may screw it up!

 

[imaoldfart]

My gunsmith charges $25 an hour, $50 if I watch, $75 if I help and $100 if I've worked on it before.

I'd have to assume this 'headless screw' must be an allen/grub screw, requiring an allen wrench, metric probably.

I'd say, at this point, take it to a gunsmith.

 

[Martin]

Perhaps we can see a pic of the rear sight to determine the used rear sight.

 

[Mr. PPK/S]

Perhaps we can see a pic of the rear sight to determine the used rear sight.

Sorry! Should’ve included a picture to begin with!

 

[Martin]

OK, understood. It's not a original Walther/Manurhin rear sight. - In Germany we call it INBUS as a type of scew. Could be designed in metric or in inch type...

 

[imaoldfart]

The previous owner may have used 'red' loctite on the threads. If so, its gonna take some heat...okay, a lot of heat to soften up the loctite to allow the allen screw to be loosened. If the hex hole in the screw is already boogered up the screw may have to be drilled out. Take it to a gunsmith.

 

[ViperR]

Looks like that rear sight is the one used on those Umarex pot metal PPK/S rimfire ,22's.
OP didn't say what type of Walther it is.

 

[Martin]

Hmm, if it's a Umarex PPK/S we know, the srew is metric ...

 

[Tomovich]

I know I've heard this before but I love it!

My gunsmith charges $25 an hour, $50 if I watch, $75 if I help and $100 if I've worked on it before.

I'd have to assume this 'headless screw' must be an allen/grub screw, requiring an allen wrench, metric probably.

I'd say, at this point, take it to a gunsmith.

 

[halfmoonclip]

For the OP, have you found an Allen key that fits correctly? (Metric is most likely, of course). If it is indeed already buggered, then it likely is gunsmith time.
Oldfart is correct, some one may have red locktited it; pressing a soldering iron to it should loosen it. If that doesn't work, and...
If you're determined to screw it up yourself, assuming you have a drill press...
Block it in the press, drill it out (gently!), remove the sight and retap it for a new, slightly larger setscrew.
Moon

 

[Redcat94]

some one may have red locktited it; pressing a soldering iron to it should loosen it.

I've had better luck defeating Loctite using cold. Dry ice would work best but a cryogenic aerosol like Freeze-It might be more readily available.

 

[halfmoonclip]

Thanks, redcat. News to me.

Personally, have had mixed results with Locktite; sometimes it holds, sometimes it does not.
Moon

 

[Redcat94]

Personally, have had mixed results with Locktite; sometimes it holds, sometimes it does not.

For Loctite to get a good bond the threads must be degreased first and you need to use the right formula. There are different grades of Loctite for various applications like fasteners under 1/4", from 1/4" to 3/4", slip fit, permanent strength, etc.

As far as using cold goes it's the same idea as using heat. Different metals expand and contract at different temperatures so you're using that to break loose the threads from what they're mated with. Exteme cold also seems to make Loctite brittle and has the big advantage that it can used around fuel tanks or oxygen lines.

 

[halfmoonclip]

"...and has the big advantage that it can be used around fuel tanks and oxygen lines." Well, there is that to argue for using the cold!
I've three flavors of Locktite in the shop, and relentlessly degrease with denatured alcohol. Still mixed results.
Back to the OP, how is that going?
Moon

 

[LoftonHarris]

"...and has the big advantage that it can be used around fuel tanks and oxygen lines." Well, there is that to argue for using the cold!
I've three flavors of Locktite in the shop, and relentlessly degrease with denatured alcohol. Still mixed results.
Back to the OP, how is that going?
Moon

It takes a 1.5mm hex wrench. The one provided with gun is poor quality and rounds out easily. The sight costs just a few dollars from Walther (plus way more for shipping). The part number is 503.700.01 and should come with the set screw, which has an M3 thread. BTW the rear sight sold by Numrich is for a “real” Walther and is too small for the dovetail on your gun. The set screw is set in a plastic bushing so if you get a good hex wrench (or a couple of them to be safe) you shouldn’t need heat or cold to muscle it out. I‘ve encountered this problem myself while testing various sight modifications. Aside from the Allen wrench I don’t think you’ll hurt anything by getting manly with it. Oh, why were you trying to remove it, anyway? Just curious. Good luck!