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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Way back in 1979 I bought a new Interarms PPK/S in .380 caliber. Then two weeks ago the ejector broke. So I bought a new one from Numrich, it dropped right in, no problem at all.

BUT ...... now the slide is not held back after the last round is fired.

  • The ejector is well-lubed.
  • I cannot feel any hangups when the slide is cycled by hand, the slide moves easily both forward & backward.
  • When fired, the brass ejects as normal.
  • When fired, the pistol works as normal.
  • I used some 2,000-grit sandpaper to smooth the "outer" face of the ejector, the face which slides against the slide.
  • When hand-cycled, the hold-back works as normal.
  • All six magazines have been disassembled and cleaned.
  • Each magazine follower is in excellent condition and the little "tab" thingie is not worn, nor worn away.

In other words, everything is (theoretically) "just like before" only the slide isn't held back after the last round.

I've only fired 250 rounds with the new ejector. Is the "problem" not a problem, just an indicator that the PPK/S needs more rounds through it to get the ejector "worn in" ??

Any thoughts, ideas, and help are much appreciated !!
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Yes, I've used all six magazines to check the "tab" thingie alignment, with the slide on and the slide off.
Every magazine "tab" pushes the ejector up just like it is supposed to, when hand-operated.

I've stretched each magazine spring just a bit so that the "tab" pushes just a little harder on the ejector. That did not help during live fire.
Before the old ejector broke, all six magazines caused the slide-hold-back function to work just fine, never ever a problem.

It just seems "logical" that something is "off" just a few thousandths, just enough to prevent the ejector from moving up when the last shot is fired. And that makes me wonder if the ejector is just a few thousandths too thick and binds 'just enough" during live fire ...... which if true, indicates to me that the more I shoot the pistol the quicker those thousandths will be "shaved off" simply by usage.
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Take the recoil spring out and put the slide back on. Pull the slide back. Can you manipulate the ejector as it should function normally, or is it hanging up on the slide?
 

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An .32/7.65 ejector (sent by mistake) will have a little bit more metal on the area that engages the follower because those rounds are smaller in dia. So, don't think that is the problem.
What I'm thinking is the new ejector/hold open tab area is too short by a fraction that works with mild hand operating, but slips past the follower on all your mags during the more violent firing procedure.
There is side-to-side wiggle play in the mag well of the frame and the mags actual width.
I think a new ejector is in order.
Please correct me if I'm off on this thinking.
And pics would help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
(been out of town a few days.)

I removed the recoil spring and slid the slide back & forth. No hangups nor bindings whatsoever. Smooth as silk.
With the slide forward, I inserted a magazine. I moved the slide backward, the ejector was pushed upward as per normal and the slide was held back as per normal.

Here's a couple of photo's ......

the installed ejector .....

http://jpgbox.com/page/56886_959x462/


a magazine inserted, you can see where the "tab" thingie on the follower is engaged with the ejector in order to push it up .....

http://www.jpgbox.com/page/56889_920x427/

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I once had the wrong ejector (380?) in a mint .32 Ulm PPKS. Early in my Walther collecting days, I bought the story that it was a special police weapon intended for the slide not to lock back in a gun fight to avoid the signature lock back sound. My source took the weapon back in a trade at the same value he sold it to me for. It was such a nice pistol I almost keep it, but the wrong ejector caused ejected rounds to come back at me.
 

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When mine broke a while back and I got a replacement from Numrich, they sent me a .32 ejector by mistake. There is a very slight difference... Numrich did rectify the mistake, however.
 

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Have you recently switched to different ammunition?

M

P.s. If so, switch back. If not, have you cleaned the magazine recently? If not, it might be time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
re. the ejector: I'm told that I did receive the correct .380 ejector.

re. ammo: using the same ammo I've been using for a few years. Magazines were scrubbed clean & shiny, inside and out.

I'll do some more testing firing tomorrow.
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I have a 1933 ZM PPK in .32 caliber with the same symptoms. I have not replaced any parts and I cannot tell if the ejector is original or a replacement. My assumption has been that when a round is fired, the slide does not move back quite far enough for chamber opening to move past the end of the ejector. So, it cannot pop up and lock the slide back.

As my pistol functions normally other than the slide not locking open after the last round is fired, I have not been particularly concerned. However, your situation has me questioning my assumption. If you figure out what is causing your slide to not lock open, please post the solution. Mine may have the same cause.
 

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(been out of town a few days.)

I removed the recoil spring and slid the slide back & forth. No hangups nor bindings whatsoever. Smooth as silk.
With the slide forward, I inserted a magazine. I moved the slide backward, the ejector was pushed upward as per normal and the slide was held back as per normal.

Here's a couple of photo's ......

the installed ejector .....

Image 56886 ...
I have been looking at your photos carefully and comparing them with my 2006 SW PPK/S. I have a bit over 3000 rounds through this gun and it still uses all original factory parts. I cannot remember the last time this gun failed to operate properly with both Corbon JHP and Winchester "White Box" (although initially I tried other varieties that did not always operate properly).

I know you mentioned that a new ejector part was fitted, but when I compare your photos to my gun, it appears that the ejector, even though "freshly" fitted, is pretty well worn at the rear end (in way of the inward facing latch that actually holds the slide open). Also, it seems worn at the forward end (near the ramp and chamber). I don't see how this could have happened in such a short period of time (compared to my gun where the same part appears as new). I cannot draw any absolute conclusions on this but I once had the same problem you described with a Ruger 22 semi-auto where the slide stop (a.k.a. "ejector") was slightly worn and often failed to lock the bolt on the last round. Of course it's clear that manually cycling on an empty magazine is quite different from actually firing the last round.

Also and I hesitate to mention this, but the gun is looking a bit dirty in the photos, and if so that may contribute to the problem. OTOH maybe it's just the photos. Hope this comment helps a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
kerry,

Interesting that my new ejector looks worn in comparison. I'll dig deeper on that.

As for the all the dirt and gunk, that's from that morning's firing session. The pistol always gets a good scrub and is very clean prior to the next session.
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Some of the Walther PP-series parts sold by Gun Parts (Numrich) are not genuine, but are "replacement" parts of unknown origin, and not very good ones. From the photos the ejector spring does not look correctly seated; it's possible that it may be misassembled, or the internal slot is incorrectly machined, and/or there may be no crimp on the opposite side to hold the V of the spring in place. It should be possible, by pulling up on the ejector to fully and freely compress the spring and it should snap back smartly.

The mating surface in the slide also should be checked to make sure it is undamaged and not rounded off.

Fixing guns like this is how Mike McClellan earns a living.

M
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
UPDATE: 01 September 2019

I devised a "fix" that works ..... so far. I will do more testing to be more confident.

Since (during live fire) the nub on the magazine follower did not "reach over" far enough to engage the ejector for the last-round hold-back, I decided to add a small dab of weld metal onto the ejector, then do some filing-to-fit. Thus there would be more metal projected into the travel path of the nub and thus more surface for the nub to engage during operation.

Welding done, filing done, about 30 live-fire tests done ...... 100% success with 4 different magazines.

Here's a link to a picture of where I added the weld metal (and I can't figure out how to make the picture open up automatically, if that is possible) .......


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