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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just received a replacement cocking piece for my PPK/S. It does not appear the same as the original. I thought it was some kind of upgrade and installed it anyway. It cracked at the area that was different. Waiting to hear back from customer service. I thought I would run it by the experts here.



Any ideas?

Thanks,

- Pat
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update, the one they sent me (on the right) is for a S&W. Mine (on the left) is from an Interarms.

- Pat
 

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Do you mean a joke that anyone would attempt to replace the cocking peice? I don't see anything wrong with the original.
No, the joke was the cocking piece on the right. Never seen one like that before. It must be the latest "improvement" from S&W.

A shame the pic got deleted. It sort of robs the thread of any usefulness.

In any case, there isn't enough information about why or how the original cocking piece was replaced to allow any meaningful assessment of why the replacement cracked.

M
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, pic is back.

From the beginning. The broken section on the original, is on the other side. It is the part of the cocking piece the hammer rests against when cocked. It was cracked, causing the hammer to sometimes slip off instead of staying back in the SA position. You had to release the trigger and shoot the next shot DA. I got the phone number from the Walther site to order the part. The CS rep didn't ask what type of PPK/S it was. I didn't know at the time, no matter which number you dial, you get S&W CS. I thought I was talking to a Walther CS person. Anyway, noticed the part wasn't the same but it didn't interfere with the operation so I put it on and cycled it 10-12 times. I pulled it back off to inspect the wear pattern and noticed it was cracked in the area shown in the red balloon. CS said there are 2 different part numbers and have the right one on the way. And now you have, the 'rest of the story'

- Pat
 

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A cracked cocking piece is new to me. It looks like perhaps the S&W piece is cast, where as the original was machined. Anyway, what I do know is that once you remove the pins holding the cocking piece, they must be repressed into the frame. This will make everything tight again. That could of been your problem with the second cocking piece. You need a hardened steel piece that is shaped like a magazine that goes in the magazine well( I have only seen this tool once on ebay and wished I would of bought it) , and then press the pins from the outside with a vice. This will expand those pins in the holes. You may know this already, but I thought it important to cover it.

I am not saying a loose cocking piece necessarily caused the second one to crack, this is a myster to me, maybe there is a problem with the hammer, there is a little strut for double action that has a spring behind it that retracts past the cocking piece for single action that must work properly. As with most things it is hard to single out a cause. Perhaps Mike or someone else will have more insight than I do. You are definately getting into gunsmithing area here. I know of someone who works on ppks in the st louis area. If you are interested, send me a private message and I will give you his name.
 

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Just when your ready to give the S&W a pass someone comes up and makes a post like this. Very scary!

Since the cocking piece is riveted in ( at least it used to be ) how did you remove the rivets. I would have thought the cocking piece was a restricted part - or factory replace only.

Good Luck proco!
 

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Just when your ready to give the S&W a pass someone comes up and makes a post like this. Very scary!

...

Good Luck proco!


His gun is an Interarms gun ... only fault S&W has here is not asking if it was their gun or not.

I see parts guns on gunbroker from time to time. He probably needs to check there and find the actual cocking piece that was made for gun.
 

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That sucks, you have no choice but remove the cocking piece and replacing it. Send me a PM, I may be able to help you out.
 
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