My guess (having replaced barrels before in the PP series) is that the rotation of the rifling under firing friction is causing the barrel to rotate in that direction and finally being stopped by the cross pin. Plain physics. And there is play in the "should be a press fit" between the barrel & hood.
Remedy: Remove the barrel pin, tap out the barrel, since it is loose in the hood it should come out easily, mix & apply proper metal epoxy (JB Weld is good, but I like, Permatex Cold Weld better because it's thinner for tight places), apply on mating areas, rotate it quickly where you want the barrel after tapping the barrel back into place, wipe off excess epoxy and let it sit for 24 hours.
Then, drill out the 3mm pin hole with the next size larger (go SAE 1/8") and trim a 1/8" spring pin to size and tap that in.
Reason for the epoxy is to keep the barrel solid in the hood when drilling for a larger pin. If you don't want to use epoxy, you can raise some dimples on the barrel mating area with a sharp punch to keep it in place for the re-drill like one would do for a loose rear dovetail sight.
I don't like the dimpling procedure because the barrel hood on the frame is very thin and could lead to slitting & possibly spitting the thin hood. Epoxy is liquid and has more give to it.
Anyone else want to chime in if I forgot something?
Or, send it to M&M. He does excellent work.
Remedy: Remove the barrel pin, tap out the barrel, since it is loose in the hood it should come out easily, mix & apply proper metal epoxy (JB Weld is good, but I like, Permatex Cold Weld better because it's thinner for tight places), apply on mating areas, rotate it quickly where you want the barrel after tapping the barrel back into place, wipe off excess epoxy and let it sit for 24 hours.
Then, drill out the 3mm pin hole with the next size larger (go SAE 1/8") and trim a 1/8" spring pin to size and tap that in.
Reason for the epoxy is to keep the barrel solid in the hood when drilling for a larger pin. If you don't want to use epoxy, you can raise some dimples on the barrel mating area with a sharp punch to keep it in place for the re-drill like one would do for a loose rear dovetail sight.
I don't like the dimpling procedure because the barrel hood on the frame is very thin and could lead to slitting & possibly spitting the thin hood. Epoxy is liquid and has more give to it.
Anyone else want to chime in if I forgot something?
Or, send it to M&M. He does excellent work.
