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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a trick to putting the slide back on? I never seem to get it on the first try. Sometimes it take a few minutes. Then I do something and it's just on like nothing at all.
 

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Not if you wedge the trigger guard down (I use a chopstick, small end). Then it's simple, stick the large end of the recoil spring, fit it in the nosecap, pull backwards on the slide and it should line up perfectly if you pull the slide back enought.



until it hit the tracks and it should go forward and then you remove the chopstick. When the slide lines up with the tracks, it will go in easily and you can then remove the wedge from beneath the trigger guard. >380 are a little more challenging to rack back because of the stronger recoil spring, but not that bad. If you have weak hands, like I do, I'd invest in an EZ wracker which makes racking a slide on a .380 an easily task.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have no problem with the trigger guard. It's just getting the slide to seat properly. I don't think I'm doing anything different each time.
 

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There's a round piece on the back left hand side of the frame (I don't know the name of the part) but mine will drift a little when disassembled causing the slide to not go on.

Try pressing it down to see if it's hanging up the slide.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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No trick... hard to repeat the exact movement, placement of the slide with such a strong spring.
 

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IMO stop trying to rack it using a weak muscle on the inside of your shoulder.

I hook the trigger guard with my index finger, pull it as if I were pulling the trigger, and maintain that grip. I then hold the slide but rather than rack it, I push with the hand holding the frame so I’ve got my tricep behind it.

Same to reassemble- hook the front on then push the frame rather than pull the slide.

The above is good also and the manual has a couple of things like that to check so it slides back together nicely.
 

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Make sure the tight end of the recoil spring goes on first.
The .380s can be, ahem, challenging.
Moon
 

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You can't lift the slide too high at the rear end or it will bind, same for dismounting it. Lift it just enough to clear the frame boss and then pull it all the way back being careful to align the rails and grooves before letting it forward. That way you minimize or eliminate scratches. I've not noticed any problems aligning any of mine and I do cock the hammer first. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You can't lift the slide too high at the rear end or it will bind, same for dismounting it. Lift it just enough to clear the frame boss and then pull it all the way back being careful to align the rails and grooves before letting it forward. ..

Now that I think about it, this might what I am doing. Sometimes it just goes on, other times, it doesn't seem like Ive matched up the tracks and it wont go all the way down and is stuck. Its the strangest thing.
 

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I've experienced this in the early days. It's hard to say exactly what's blocking it. But once I began to incorporate some of the suggestions here, seems like the problem just got few and far between and then went away altogether. Make sure you don't have the recoil spring reversed as that has prevented the slide from going on the frame as well.
 

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You'll get the hang of it. Just don't ever let go of the slide when remounting it to the frame. Always ride /control it home into battery.
 

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Make sure the pistol is ready for the slide to be installed. Recoil spring on properly, trigger guard down, hammer cocked, ejector snugged up against the frame. Should be good to go. Are you sure it's a PP and not a Ruger MK II or III? If the mystery remains trying putting the slide on several times with the recoil spring removed. 1917
 

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when you pull the slide all the way back, the hammer pushes up on the slide a bit. Push down on the rear of the slide and it should slide in pretty easily.
 
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