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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I have read several posts on this seemingly fairly common problem, but I just can't pinpoint my problem.

When firing, the hammer occasionally falls, and it engages the DA lever, so it doesn't fall all the way down. But I have to recock it. New round chambers like it should. This applies to all kinds of ammo I have tried.

So, when troubleshooting this, the only way I have found to replicate the problem is to hold the trigger and let the slide slam home. When doing this, the issue occurs perhaps even more often than when firing the gun. Like one in five times.

When slamming the slide home while not holding the trigger, it doesn't happen at all.

The decocking lever works, but it releases the hammer very late, when it's covering the entire red dot. And I can feel the hammer touching the sear when lowering the hammer. So the decocking lever just barely releases the hammer.

I have also noticed some binding in the trigger bar. When cocking the hammer without touching the trigger, the trigger bar stays in the "disconnected" position. When I touch the trigger, it pops up into its "connected" position. This also happens with the slide removed, so it's the trigger bar itself that binds, not the notch in the slide. I have also removed the grips, same result.

Much information, perhaps too much.

Any ideas anyone? Or some sticky or old post I haven't found?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Try here: https://www.waltherforums.com/forum/faq-pp-tp/21428-when-hammer-won-t-stay-cocked.html

Who made this gun? Did you just acquire it?

The decocking being very late is, to me, the salient clue. Something is haywire in the geometry.

M
It's a German made Ulm, manufactured in 1962. It was practically box new when I bought it five years ago. It even came in its original cardboard box with correct serial number. So it might well never have been fired before I got it.

But the leade was too tight for all ammunition I could find, the bullets got stuck, so I recently had it reamed slightly. Now it finally chambers properly AND shoots straight, and then I also shoot it more. Getting 4" groups at 25 yards is a lot of fun with a gun this size. So I noticed this other problem. It has probably been this way for as long as I've had it, I just never noticed it before now.

I tried removing the decocking release, but the problem was still there.

Being as old as it is and probably with all original springs, I'll get a complete factory spring kit from Wolff and replace all of them, cleaning and lubricating everything in the process. Might well solve it for some reason or another? I read somewhere that replacing the hammer block spring could solve similar problems, even though I couldn't find any with my exact symptoms.
 

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Being as old as it is and probably with all original springs, I'll get a complete factory spring kit from Wolff and replace all of them, cleaning and lubricating everything in the process. Might well solve it for some reason or another? ...
I'd say changing all the springs is a waste of time and money.

There are about 16 different things it might be. It's gunsmith hands-on time. Call Mike McClellan (no relation) at M&M Gunsmithing in Alabama and send it to him. He'll diagnose and fix it efficiently and correctly.

M
 

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Possibly a dislodged or broken trigger spring that links to the trigger bar and raises it in the cocking piece. Field strip it and make sure the back curved end of the spring rides in the groove under the forward end of the bar.
Just a shot in the dark.
 

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Possibly a dislodged or broken trigger spring that links to the trigger bar and raises it in the cocking piece. Field strip it and make sure the back curved end of the spring rides in the groove under the forward end of the bar.
Just a shot in the dark.
EXCELLENT suggestion. I thought that possibility was covered in the FAQ linked above, but it's not; it's tucked somewhere else.

M
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd say changing all the springs is a waste of time and money.

There are about 16 different things it might be. It's gunsmith hands-on time. Call Mike McClellan (no relation) at M&M Gunsmithing in Alabama and send it to him. He'll diagnose and fix it efficiently and correctly.

M
I actually went against your advise on this one, mainly because I live in Europe and can't really ship the gun over the pond that easily.

So I disassembled the entire gun, cleaned and lubricated everything, and replaced all the springs with factory spec new ones. The only one I couldn't get was the loaded chamber indicator spring, which isn't really important. The spring kit cost like $15.

And voila - it works like a champ! No hammer following any more, neither when firing nor dropping the slide.

Whether it was worn springs, faulty assembly performed by the previous owner, or simply old sticky goo in the mechanism slowing down the sear and causing the issue, we will never know. Could have been a combination of these, as well. But the hammer following problem is now unmistakenly completely gone.

I didn't really see anything obviously wrong when disassembling, other than the hammer block spring, which actually was noticably shorter than the new one. But I have no plans on reinstalling the old one, just to see if the problem comes back.

Thanks for good tips anyway, I will carry them with me when my next problem arises. :)
 
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