Heck, I'll just drive up and see him. Say hello from all you boys and girls. M1911Get with Mike at M&M for bits. He has sent us multiples of what you need (as MGMike said, the pin and spring) and try it at the range before going for anything more. Great deal, BTW.
A few years ago I passed on a .380 stainless Ranger PPK/S due to that missing ejector spring. I have kicked myself for that ever since. It was a $300 OTD weapon. If I'd joined this forum earlier and had known about M&M as a resource, that particular Walther may have been one in my safe now.
Thanks for the pictures. My outer chamber looks something like yours. What's the deal with that? I was thinking someone had buffed mine with some emery paper. But, yours looks the same but with I think more scratches front to rear. Mine wraps over the top of the chamber. Odd to me. Glad to see yours looks like mine....but, I can do better work than that and have done so. I call that a shoe shine polish job. Anyone know why this is finished this way?
And this is where "the guy" isn't fully informed with how the part works. It's more than just a slide catch. It's also the ejector.The other problem is that the spring has jumped ship on the slide catch. He didn't know what I was talking about. The guy told me I didn't need it as the mag pushed the catch up when empty...
Quite true. If the ejector is not positively held in exactly the same position each time the gun cycles, ejection will be erratic and malfunctions will probably result.... If the spring isn't present, the ejector would likely flop around and not work half the time.
OK, I get it now. I was wondering what you meant when you said the proof marks were bright. That was back on the pictures taken through the glass case too, which weren't all that good. I think I'll call you Eagle Eye Mike. Learn something new around here everyday. M1911Proof stamps go on last, which is how to quickly spot a reblued gun (it was polished twice, but the second polishing left blue in the bottoms of the proof marks).
Steve: I am not so sure that the spring was too strong. It may simply have not been correctly installed....
My PP had problems with these exact same parts (extractor and spring) when I first got it. In my case, the spring was actually too strong, requiring way too much force to fully elevate the extractor. Even with a brand-new empty magazine inserted the spring was so tight the magazine follower wouldn't lift the extractor completely up, causing a weak/incomplete catch on the underside of the slide which was slowly chipping away at the slide! I solved the problem by buying new magazines and compressing the extractor spring oh-so-subtly so it wasn't so tight. She's worked like a charm since.
... any recommendations regarding the small areas of rust. Leave em alone and keep em oiled??? I count 11 small areas, 1/32" in dia and the largest is right behind the safety lever on the top edge of the slide there.
I didn't see any rust in the photos, but any rust that small should be left alone, just oiled and gently rubbed; you won't be able to make it go away, and you'll only make the spots bigger if you muck with them.