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Discussion Starter #21
I'll put up some pictures tomorrow. The plunger looks good to me but I certainly don't have any issues with replacing what needs replacing as long as I can find the parts. Good places for parts? M1911

 

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If the safety works correctly, and does not flip on by itself when firing the pistol, the only things you need are a new signal pin --there is only one type on postwar pistols--and an ejector/slide stop spring for the one that is missing.

Thoroughly clean the inside of the magazine and that may resolve any problem there; if it doesn't, original replacement magazines are available.

Then shoot it, and see how it performs before replacing anything else.

M
 

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Get with Mike at M&M for bits. He has sent us multiples of what you need (as MGMike said, the pin and spring) and try it at the range before going for anything more. Great deal, BTW.

A few years ago I passed on a .380 stainless Ranger PPK/S due to that missing ejector spring. I have kicked myself for that ever since. It was a $300 OTD weapon. If I'd joined this forum earlier and had known about M&M as a resource, that particular Walther may have been one in my safe now.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Probably be a long time before beating the deal below. Sure am glad Walther likes heavy recoil springs in PPK/S .380. :D




Target says 9-19-94 serial # S121823 Add that to the list, whoever is keeping it. M1911
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Get with Mike at M&M for bits. He has sent us multiples of what you need (as MGMike said, the pin and spring) and try it at the range before going for anything more. Great deal, BTW.

A few years ago I passed on a .380 stainless Ranger PPK/S due to that missing ejector spring. I have kicked myself for that ever since. It was a $300 OTD weapon. If I'd joined this forum earlier and had known about M&M as a resource, that particular Walther may have been one in my safe now.
Heck, I'll just drive up and see him. Say hello from all you boys and girls. M1911
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I have it's sibling. Paid $400 for it a couple years ago.

View attachment 11743

View attachment 11744
Thanks for the pictures. My outer chamber looks something like yours. What's the deal with that? I was thinking someone had buffed mine with some emery paper. But, yours looks the same but with I think more scratches front to rear. Mine wraps over the top of the chamber. Odd to me. Glad to see yours looks like mine....but, I can do better work than that and have done so. I call that a shoe shine polish job. Anyone know why this is finished this way?

BTW, how do you make those blow up so large? M1911
 

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Most of the scratches found on that part of the barrel boss visible through the ejection port --especially along the top and gouges at the rearmost corner-- are typically caused by clumsy assembly/disassembly technique, i.e., not squarely lifting or lowering the slide or not pulling the slide back far enough. This also makes ragged edges on the rearmost part of the slide rails where they meet the frame (on either side of the hammer). This is minimized with practice; leave out the recoil spring to make practice easier.

Modest polishing of the right circumference of the barrel boss won't hurt anything. On blued guns, this is always factory-polished after bluing anyway, in order to leave that surface bright. Proof stamps go on last, which is how to quickly spot a reblued gun (it was polished twice, but the second polishing left blue in the bottoms of the proof marks).

Polishing was always originally done perpendicular to the bore line, and was rarely carried very far over to the left side; usually the lower left segment of the boss not exposed in the ejection port was left blued.

M
 

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The other problem is that the spring has jumped ship on the slide catch. He didn't know what I was talking about. The guy told me I didn't need it as the mag pushed the catch up when empty...
And this is where "the guy" isn't fully informed with how the part works. It's more than just a slide catch. It's also the ejector.

He's correct when he stated that upon the final shot being fired, the mag follower pushes it upward in order for the rear face of the part to make contact with the breech face, thus locking the slide back on an empty mag.

Where he's in the dark is that the spring is there to hold it in the downward position so it can act as the ejector (the "stepped" portion of the part) the rest of the time. If the spring isn't present, the ejector would likely flop around and not work half the time.



 

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Discussion Starter #30
AOXO, your barrel boss is polished much smoother than mine. I think someone used 40 grit on mine. The top is covered by the slide of course and the work as seen through the ejection port isn't all that bad....I just expected to see a much finer finish here. Will put the pistol together and post some pictures.

Now to track down one in .22 lr..... Thanks Mike for the explanation, that makes perfect sense. M1911
 

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... If the spring isn't present, the ejector would likely flop around and not work half the time.

..
Quite true. If the ejector is not positively held in exactly the same position each time the gun cycles, ejection will be erratic and malfunctions will probably result.

The spring also ensures that when a fresh magazine is inserted and the slide retracted slightly to release the holdopen, that the ejector will drop out of the way. Without the spring, it would have to function entirely by gravity.

The spring is also a retainer of sorts. It helps keep the ejector from falling out when the slide is dismounted.

M
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Not according to the lgs salesman....the slide will hold it in there. :rolleyes: I don't want to fire the pistol without the spring in there. Yep, that spring is there for a reason and the ejector needs to be held in position and down until called on to perform as designed. OK, some pictures of what I purchased.





















One of the chamber area, extractor removed.

I have no idea how to photograph the bore. I have oiled the pistol but have yet to clean it. Wonder where you buy pipe cleaners these days. OK, that is what I bought, first real PP. $350 hot tamales. Hope it meets with approval. It looks like to me it will function fine just as soon as I find some stuff for it. 69 looks double stamped, 3 is larger and deeper. The 3 on the frame is much lighter than the other numbers. any recommendations regarding the small areas of rust. Leave em alone and keep em oiled??? I count 11 small areas, 1/32" in dia and the largest is right behind the safety lever on the top edge of the slide there.

Now to get some more bullets. I have only 50 PMC Bronze RN at present. $25 a box, funny that the gun shop had all kinds of .22 ammo. Of course it was pretty pricey. M1911
 

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You stole that PP, 1917. Excellent job! The bore looks fine to me; you've got a sweet lady there... once we get it all spiffed up with new parts you'll be running 7.65mm cartridges through it with glee.

Two notes came to mind this afternoon while I was reading through this thread on my lunch break. One, the signal pin is not necessary for function of this firearm - in fact some even remove it on purpose to remove an element of unnecessary complexity from the pistol. If you take the pin and spring out and reassemble the slide it'll work just fine. And two, the spring for the ejector is necessary as explained earlier by Mike and others. Without it, if you were to tip the PP upside down you could inadvertently lock the slide back with cartridges in the magazine and the violence of the firing motion would cause it to jump all over the place and either cause malfunctions or damage to the underside of the slide. Here's what the spring looks like out of mine:


My PP had problems with these exact same parts (extractor and spring) when I first got it. In my case, the spring was actually too strong, requiring way too much force to fully elevate the extractor. Even with a brand-new empty magazine inserted the spring was so tight the magazine follower wouldn't lift the extractor completely up, causing a weak/incomplete catch on the underside of the slide which was slowly chipping away at the slide! I solved the problem by buying new magazines and compressing the extractor spring oh-so-subtly so it wasn't so tight. She's worked like a charm since.

-Pilotsteve
 

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Very pretty.

The PP is just so... perfect in form. That long graceful slide is just so much more visually appealing than a PPK or PPK/S.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Proof stamps go on last, which is how to quickly spot a reblued gun (it was polished twice, but the second polishing left blue in the bottoms of the proof marks).

M
OK, I get it now. I was wondering what you meant when you said the proof marks were bright. That was back on the pictures taken through the glass case too, which weren't all that good. I think I'll call you Eagle Eye Mike. Learn something new around here everyday. M1911
 

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...

My PP had problems with these exact same parts (extractor and spring) when I first got it. In my case, the spring was actually too strong, requiring way too much force to fully elevate the extractor. Even with a brand-new empty magazine inserted the spring was so tight the magazine follower wouldn't lift the extractor completely up, causing a weak/incomplete catch on the underside of the slide which was slowly chipping away at the slide! I solved the problem by buying new magazines and compressing the extractor spring oh-so-subtly so it wasn't so tight. She's worked like a charm since.

-Pilotsteve
Steve: I am not so sure that the spring was too strong. It may simply have not been correctly installed.

Whether the top leg of the V-spring should go above or below the prick-punch in the ejector (which was always applied by hand) seems to vary according to the exact location of the dent. It's fine either way, so long as the top leg is not restricted in its range of motion, and its loop sits far enough back to comfortably engage the groove in the frame.

M
 

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... any recommendations regarding the small areas of rust. Leave em alone and keep em oiled??? I count 11 small areas, 1/32" in dia and the largest is right behind the safety lever on the top edge of the slide there.
.../QUOTE]

I didn't see any rust in the photos, but any rust that small should be left alone, just oiled and gently rubbed; you won't be able to make it go away, and you'll only make the spots bigger if you muck with them.

M
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)




There are several very small rusted spots like the one above the first 9 in the serial number. By far, the worst area is right behind the safety lever. Not really deep but it isn't going to buff out either. A couple under the trigger guard, a couple on the edge of the grip. These are of little concern to me. There was no rust inside the pistol. Just wondering what if anything should be done about them other than a good scrubbing with an oiled cloth and then routine maintenance. I could draw file the entire pistol, then buff and re-blue...but, I'd get kicked off of here for that. :) M1911

Oh yeah, looking at my receipt I notice I paid $318 for the pistol. Tax man got the rest making it $350.......
 
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